Will be lifting a 58. I have every body mount loose and everything else detached. The body is still firmly stuck to the frame. I tried to break it free by lifting a little on the rear fenders but it seemed to pull up on the suspension. I did not do this aggressively but it felt "stuck". My questions are: How to unstick the body? Is there a trick to keep the shims in place during the lift thereby avoiding guess work later. I have Nolands workbook (but not the video). Does the simple cube design work OK or is it worth building the larger one with 6 castors? I will be doing an underbody clean up and not much work on top. Everything is out of the car. The doors, decklid and trunk are off. Do the doors need to be in place to avoid overstressing / cracking the rocker panel area. Any suggestions appreciated. I live in the Phila/Reading area of PA (in case anyone wants to help - snacks and beverages will be served. Thanks, Ken
-
-
Re: C1 Body Lift
Ken,
Can't help you on most of your plight. Will say, however, yes avoid overstressing the area where the door was. Putting the doors back on creates too much weight to lift. Instead, wedge and secure a 2 X 4 or equivalent between the door post upper hinge point and the lock striker. Good luck, Regards, -
Re: C1 Body Lift
Are you certain all body mounts have been unbolted? I believe there are 11 total. Yes,it is highly advisable to reinforce the door area. On my 57 I used a wire cable and turnbuckle between doors using homemade brckets I made attached to the hinge and the latch. On my 65 I used a 2x4 with store bought L- brackets for shelving. Any type of device you come up with, that will hold the jambs taught during the body removal will work. Leaving doors on are OK but do add to the total weight of car. These cars are light. Lift slowly with a minimum of 6 people, 3 per side. Not on the nose or rear of car. In regards to the shims, have 2 people, one on each side looking underneath down the frame rails as the body is being raised slowly. Make sure no shims stick to the bottom of the body. Don't sweat the shims too much. After all of your body work is done you will need to re-shim the body for body gaps anyway.If one mount has space, shim it. On the cube body dolly;I used the 6 caster version. I liked the extra support for the nose. Good Luck!Comment
-
Re: C1 Body Lift
Would agree with Dick about being sure all body mount bolts (and steering stuff) is undone. I've never had one "stick" ... Best, DennisComment
-
Re: C1 Body Lift
On my `62 I used the Cube/Square design but added a long 4x4 front to back to support the nose & rear. I added cross supports under the rad and trunk to the appropriate width and height.Comment
-
And fuel line... *NM*
Comment
-
Re: And fuel line...
if the dipstick is left behind, the "stick phenomenae" will occur. mikeComment
Comment