Finally found the lacquer I need, and am now digesting what my painter says he wants to do. He says he needs 5 to 6 quarts of color, the same amount for clear, and 5 gallons of thinner (sounds like a lot). He says after he shoots 5 coats of color, he likes to hit it with some 600 grit, then let it sit for 30 days before wet sanding, then let it sit for another 15 - 30 days before buffing (depending on the weather). I lost my cell phone connection with him before I could ask at what point the clear lacquer is applied, as I know nothing about this process other than what I am learning here. Not that I'm not having a blast with this restoration, sometimes the process makes me feel like I have been under a rock for 25 years. Now that I am already pregnant with this car, the bottom line is I want what will give me the best possible scoring when I have my car judged. So,is what my painter telling me on target?
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Most points = Lacquer *NM*
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Re: Most points = Lacquer
The decision to use lacquer has already been made. My question is more directed to those experienced in using the lacquer, and if what my painter is telling me (as explained in my original post) is appropriate for achieveing my goal.Comment
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Re: Most points = Lacquer
Your description of this painters methodology sounds correct. Patience is a virtue in this step of your restoration. I am sure that some of the more seasoned paint pro's will chime in later in the day.
But before they send you to a rubber room with advice, have you done your homework on your painter of choice? Seen any of his past and recent work? Talked to anyone who has used him in the past for feedback?
I find picking up the phone and doing the above helps settle my nerves quite a bit.
However, there are no guarantee's, as I just was disappointed after doing all the above in an unrelated mechanical matter.
So, if you feel comfy with your painter of choice, let him work.
Lastly, most of the better shops I am aware of are back logged 9 months to a year----or more, so feel good about being in the 3 month and out range.
GreggComment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
Greg said you get the most points with lacquer. And your answer was that decision to use lacquer has already been made. But in your original question you said smoething about 'the same amount of clear'. If you put clear over lacquer don't you lose points? Do you gain anything? JimComment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
Dave, you probably should confirm what your painter means by "thinner".
There is "thinner", essentially a cheaper lacquer thinner, used to wash the gun and clean up; five gallons may be a little high, but is in the ball park for that purpose, given the number of coats he is applying.
There is also "reducer"; this is a high quality thinner formulated specifically for the paint and matched to the ambient temperature at the time of spraying. It is used in proportions directed by the product bulletins. A gallon or so of reducer is probably all you will need.
I hate to say this, but if you are using lacquer to accomplish the "factory look" for judging, then you are essentially blowing it if you put on five coats of color and five coats of clear, or mixing the two together in some proportion. It is VERY POSSIBLE to over-restore a car using lacquer, that holy sanctity of anal restoration.
The factory applied one coat of red-oxide primer, one coat of gray sealer (or maybe some other colors for midyears), two coats of lacquer, and did just enough buffing to make it somewhat shiny. Lacquer goes on so thin, I wonder if two coats were even fully hiding in some places after buffing.
Twern't no "hitting" with 600, waiting 30 days, color-sanding it, then waiting another 15-30 days, and finally buffing it. Using the factory method produces a highly accurate restoration, but you probably wouldn't like the result. Most people don't like the "factory look" in that regard. Virtually all of the cars on the judging field have paint that is over-restored...as mine will be using @#*%&!+#.Comment
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Re: Most points = Lacquer
Gregg,
This painter has done a couple of BC/CC projects for me on non-Corvette projects, and I am very satisfied. I'm the one that threw the curve with "this one must be done in lacquer", to which he responded with "no problem, I am experienced with lacquer though it's been awhile since I have done one, here is how I do it" and then he continued with what I wrote in my original post. My body is already at his shop, and he has done an excellent job of undoing some "Bubba's" repairs performed in it's previous life. He's ready to paint as soon as I bring him my frame and the lacquer. Thanks for all of your comments.Comment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
The clear lacquer issue was where the wheels starting falling off for me, as I was asking myself the same question. I really didn't get to finish the conversation with the painter and the shop owner, but will on MondayComment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
not trying to be rude but you have not got the right painter if you have no confidance in him. It seams to me you are still shopping for a body shop to topcoat your car ,Comment
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Any paint judge care to comment?
Your point is well taken, not considered to be rude whatsoever. The painter is talented, has already done a great BC/CC project truck for me, and has lacquered Corvettes at a previous shop. The shop owner is the one with the clear coat recommendation, and maybe all it will take is a longer conversation with him explaining the sins of "over restoration" on this particular car. Which raises the question of at what point have I arrived at "over restored"?
Chuck spelled put the factory process perfectly. At the risk of appearing to be in denial, I still have to ask if I add two or more coats of color (no clear added), then buff to the brilliant shine that I understand is possible if the proper curing process is adhered to, have I sinned to the point of point reduction? Is there any margin allowed for a slightly better than factory paint job if I only cure and buff a little better than St. Louis did? I might be entering the land of conflicting desire - Good looking paint job, and maximum judging points. Geez, this makes my divorce like a walk through the park - that only took 4 years ;-)Comment
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Re: Any paint judge care to comment?
as far as i have understood , a couple of extra coats of lac, never tell , and a great buff , not a problem , base clear your going to get knocked , but only a little and the car will outlast any lac, and look fantastic , do what you want , over restore the paint , you will thank me later . make the thing perfect, good luckComment
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Re: Any paint judge care to comment?
First .What color is it ? If it is a solid color " YOU DONT NEED CLEAR " if it is a metalic color it can also be done without clear it just takes a little more time and a LOT more know how. After all the factory did it for over 25 years.
I would be more interested in the primer drying for months than the paint. When I paint my cars I put 3 or 4 coats on the shell and all the parts. then assemble the car lightly sand it with 600 or 1000 then finish my paint job with the correct lacquer ,no clear added into the paint or over the top . Your not looking for a mirror like finish or smooth as glass texture. your looking for a correct restoration. As for as drying time on the primer or paint one day in the hot sun 90+ degrees is better than months in the garage. And always remember less is best. the least amount of material on a Corvette the longer it will last...Good luck .. PS 5 gal. of thinner is about right average 2 gallons of thinner to one gallon of paint. & about 6 qts of color should be enough unless its yellow...BillComment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
Dave - It could be that your painter does not understand the NCRS judging process or the way Chevrolet painted the cars at the factory. Clear would be appropriate for a non NCRS show car and would give the most desireable finish for most cutomers. Lose the cell phone and discuss the paint job again. What color is the car and is it a metallic. That can sometimes influence top coating and buffing.Comment
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Re: Sanity check on painter's recommendation
The color is silverstone silver, a metallic. His cell problem - not mine. He doesn't understand the judging process, but will on Monday ;-)when he gets to read the appropriate section on paint.Comment
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Thanks to all - sanity back in check *NM*
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