C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

[Gary Bishop]

With Spring's arrival and time to do an oil change from storage of my `62 I have been following past discussions on using an oil sold for use in diesel engines. Should I do a change to Diesel, run, drain, and fill again?

From "Duke":- API service categroy CI-4, and my current brand is 15W-40 Chevron Delo. These oils have a higher concentration of the above mentioned additives, which is what provides long term protection to the engine.

From "Dick":- I use Shell Rotella in every thing that I own. Just did the valve cover gaskets on a 350 with 175k on engine, most short trip miles, and the engine was as clean as a 20k engine.

[Joe L.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Gary------

Here's what I'll be using in my "ZL-1" engine (approximately $17,000 invested in parts/machine work):

Mobil 1 10W-30

[Duke W.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

The oil and filter should ALWAYS be changed prior to storage. If you did change the oil prior to winter storage and the car was stored inside, there is no need to change the oil and filter for the driving season. Change it again prior to storage at the end of this driving season.

Fresh oil does not "age" in the crankcase anymore than it does sitting in the bottle on the shelf unless the inside of the engine is significantly sludged. Draining the oil prior to storage removes all the contaminents, and the fresh oil along with its additive package protects the engine from corrosion during storage. After the pre-storage change, the engine should be stated and brought up to operating temperature for at least ten minutes to ensure the fresh oil fully circulates throughout the engine and dilutes as much as possible the residual old oil that is always left in the engine. A short trip of a few miles should do the job.

I continue to recommend CI-4 oils for vintage Corvettes because their richer
detergent, dispersant, anti-wear, and anti-corrosion additive package will provide better long term protection for the internal engine components.

The major national brands of CI-4 oil are Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, and Mobile Delvac, and there are also many "house brands" - sometimes called "universal oil". The key is to look at the API label, and make sure it says "CI-4". A selection should be available an any auto parts store, and the 15W-40 grade is suitable for cold starts from about 10 degrees F to the highest summer temperatures, which should cover the expected tempeature range for the normal driving season.

Further information on motor and gear oils is at"

www.api.org

Duke

[Gary Bishop]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Thanks again Duke. When I do change types to Diesel, should I do a change to Diesel, run, drain, and fill again?

[Duke W.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Absolutely not. Base stocks for mineral oil-based SL and CI-4 oils are essentially the same. The difference is the higher additive concentration in the CI-4 oils.

Modern oils for spark ignition engines actually have less additive concentration than their antecedents from 20 years ago. This is because modern SI engines have very precise fuel control, so crankcase dilution is minimal and the combustion byproducts from some additives are believed to be potentially harmful to catalysts. Modern SI engine oils like the current API SL spec are designed for MODERN, not vintage engine requirements.

Diesel combustion byproducts are more corrosive than SI engine byproducts. For example, most diesel fuels have higher sulfer content than gasolines, but "low sulfer" diesel fuels are scheduled to replace current blends over the next several years. Nevertheless, diesel engines required a greater concentration of the critical additives I mentioned to maximize service life.

Since out vintage engines have relatively poor fuel control, which causes greater crankcase dilution and they do not have catalysts, they can use the additional additive concentrations to enhance engine life without any deleterious effects to catalyists, which is why I consider them to be preferable for vintage engines.

Duke

[Tom S.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Duke
I agrre with you on the Delo-400 I have an s-10 4 cyl. with 210,000 on it always been on Delo, never had anything done to it. The pick-up I had prior to that was a 95 S10 WITH A 4.3 V6, it has 386,000 on it and still runs every day as a delivery truck again never any thing done to it.We had a 6.5 Chevy diesel with 726,000 and nothing done to it till a driver ran it hot. It was a 95 model, I can't say enough good about this product. The shell is very good also except that it tends to foam and to my knowledge it is not recomended for the new electronic injected engines, Diesel engines that is as they get they're pressure from the engine oil.The foaming can cause air bubbles and then they can develop a miss.

Tom

[Lenn #40977]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

I sent the advice of using the C1-4 oils to Valvoline to ask if I should continue or use their MaxLife product. Drum roll...and the answer is:

Thank you for your question! You are correct in saying that most modern oils are designed to enhance the life of the catalytic converter. How long have you been using CI-4 motor oil? If you have been using CI-4 for an extended period, then Valvoline recommends that you continue using it. Diesel rated oils have a much higher detergency package than gasoline rated oils.

[Duke W.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

CI-4 oil also has a higher concentration of dispersant, anti-wear, and anti-corrosion additives. These along, with detergents are critical to the longevity of vintage engines.

Duke

[Rick A.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Duke,

since my 1963 Z06 will soon be coming back to me from restoration at Tony's Corvette, once I break the engine in should I be looking CI-4 as my engine oil of choice?

[Duke W.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Break it in with CI-4 oil. The greater concentration of ZDDP anti-wear additive will protect the cam, lifters, rings, cylinder bores, and piston skirts from scuffing during breakin.

I use 15W-40 Chevron Delo 400. The other major national brands are Mobil Delvac and Shell Rotella. There are also many "house brands" and the common multigrade is 15W-40, which is okay down to about 15-20 degrees F cold starts.

The important criterion is "CI-4" on the API label.

More info at:

www.api.org

Duke

[Rick A.]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

Duke,

thanks - figure since I am utting all this money in resto might as well start it out on the right path

[Lenn #40977]

Re: C1/C2/C3 Engine Oil?

And, we all want to thank Duke for these tips and good information!