Now that spring is just around the corner. I was thinking about putting a epoxy garage coating down myself. I want to know what some of you did or used on your garage floors. I know that getting the floor real clean is the first and most important step of the job. Did anyone use the product called "Epoxy Shield" made by Rust-Oleum? Or should I use something like a "U Coat it" product? I have about 625 sq.ft. of garage floor to cover. With hard Cleveland Ohio winters, and "HOT" tires, I need something that will last. Does anyone have problems with "Hot tires" peeling or lifting the surface? Thanks Ken
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Search the archives for some recent discussions of this topic. Includes a nice photo from John Hinckley.https://MichiganNCRS.org
Michigan Chapter
Tom Dingman -
Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Ken,
This is definitely something that you can do yourself. I'm not familiar with the Rust-Oleum product but I recommend one that is a true two-part epoxy (resin & hardener). I etched my floor with a diluted muratic acid solution before I put down the epoxy mix to ensure a good bond. It's been on for 11 years and the floor has only a few minor spots where it has worn through. I live in Austin, Texas where the summers get really hot and I haven't had a problem with hot tires damaging the cured expoxy. I think you'll like the results.
Good luck.
PeteComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
If you do not find the archives on this subject, I will repost. I did my shop floor with products made by Ameron. I used a combination of epoxy and polyurethane. I did my shop floor (4400 sq ft) in 1998. Other that a few chips (where I dropped items heavy enough to chip the concrete) and a few burn marks from welding, the floor basically looks as good as it did when it was applied. Have worked on every thing from lawn mowers to motorgraders. I highly recommend it. If you have interest I will look up the product #'sDick WhittingtonComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Base epoxy with polyurethane top coat is definately the way to go. As posted before, the prep work is the key to open up pores for maximum adhession and be sure not to contaminate.
SydComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Dick, I would like the product #'s of Ameron. Thanks PhilComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Ken,
I have been using Armour Shield 1000 epoxy floor coating on my shop floors at waor and on my shop at home and have been very pleased with the performance of it. They make a number of floor coating systems from moisture-cured urethane to Self-leveling epoxies. The product that I use is a solvent based epoxy that cures out in about 72 hours and is tough as nails. The only chip that I have managet to put in it so far is when I dropped an engine from about a foot up and the oil pan gouged out a spot about 2" long! I always grind my floors with a diamond grinder before application, but I know a lot of people who will only etch the floor with acid. I think you atre smart to stay away from anything but true 2 part epoxies or urethanes. I have several friends who have used the home center concrete paint, and every one of them has a hot tire lift problem!
Here is a link to some pics of my floor.
Regards, John McGrawComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Ken, my neighbor used a single stage, non-catalyzed garage floor paint from Home Depot. It DID lift with any of the petroleum products we use, it DID lift with hot tires, it DID NOT look good after six months. He was careful to clean the floor and prep it with muriatic acid but it just didn't hold well.
GaryComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
Ken,
I just realized that I failed to tell you the brand name of the products that I use! It is all made by Sherwin Williams.
Regards, John McGrawComment
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
As others have noted, the surface prep of the concrete is the key to permanent adhesion. The best prep is either grinding (as John McGraw noted) or steel shot-blasting, both of which remove the "skin" coat, open up the surface pores and gives the 2-part epoxy coating something to "grab" onto. I had mine shot-blasted and coated four years ago by Home Pro Floor Coating ( www.homeprofloors.com ); it's virtually indestructible, and looks just as good now as it did the day after it was poured. I think any genuine 2-part epoxy system will do as well IF the substrate is prepared by grinding or shot-blasting.
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What year Corvette is that?!!
John, That is a great car. I love your garage. I am having a house built. When they pour the floor should I have them finish it rough? I want to use a 2 part epoxy on it. Thanks, Joe DeLucaComment
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Re: What year Corvette is that?!!
Joe, that's the ultra-RARE, RARE L@@K,L@@K '85 L-88 Doesn't matter how the concrete guys finish your floor - it'll still cure with a "skin" on it that needs to be removed by grinding or shot-blasting. The other thing I did on my architect's recommendation that makes all the difference in the world was to lay a 10-mil poly moisture barrier on the soil, then laid 1"-thick 4'x 8' sheets of tongue-and-grooved high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides on the poly, then set the mesh and poured the floor over that. Absolute zero moisture migration, floor is dry and warm all year 'round - no more clammy, cold floor, perfectly dry substrate for the epoxy to bond to. Can't remember the name of the foil/foam/foil product, but it was only about eight bucks a sheet four years ago. Had the finish job done by Home Pro Floors after the floor had cured for three months, turnkey job was $1.92 per sq. ft. - I just watched and wrote the check.Comment
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Re: John Thanks for the help. *NM*
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Re: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Coatings. (Suggestion
I am building a 40x60x12h metal insulated building with three roll up doors. I am going to wall off an area 40x40 and it will have heat and A/C. I also want to put a good coating down before I put anything in there. You have talked about preping a used/old floor. What prep, if any, is required for coating a brand new concrete floor?
Thanks
PatComment
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Re: What year Corvette is that?!!
turnkey job was $1.92 per sq. ft.
On my 1000 sq ft floor of the one planned, that would be an ouch.
On the 700 sq ft floor of the existing one, that still wouldn't be pocket change.Comment
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