I am having some trouble with the brake lights on my 1966 coupe. As I apply the brake pedal sometimes the lights do not illuminate and I have to go under the dask and jiggle with the brake light switch connection to get them to work. I have taken the switch (which is original) out of the car to examine it and it appears to be okay. I don't know if these switches can go bad or if it has somethnig to do with the connection which appears to be tight. Also, is there a certain way to make the harness connection to the two prong brake light switch. Does one of the two connections have to a certain prong (be it the left one or right one) and the remaining connection to the other prong. Also, I don't have the capacitor located on the steering column hooked-up to the switch. Does this make any difference? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!
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Re: Brake Lights
John - Sounds like your switch is going south - it makes no difference which way the two wires are connected to the switch; the orange one is a hot feed from the battery (voltage always present) and the other one goes through the turn signal switch to the bright taillight filaments. Check the adjustment of the switch itself in its bracket, it may be sticking, or the internal contacts are corroded. -
Re: Brake Lights
John - Sounds like your switch is going south - it makes no difference which way the two wires are connected to the switch; the orange one is a hot feed from the battery (voltage always present) and the other one goes through the turn signal switch to the bright taillight filaments. Check the adjustment of the switch itself in its bracket, it may be sticking, or the internal contacts are corroded.Comment
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Re: Brake Lights
John
The brake switch is just an on off deal. The cap. does not matter for brake switch operation, it's for noise suppression for the radio. The switch can be jumpered to verify the rest of the harness.Comment
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Re: Brake Lights
John
The brake switch is just an on off deal. The cap. does not matter for brake switch operation, it's for noise suppression for the radio. The switch can be jumpered to verify the rest of the harness.Comment
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Re: Brake Lights
John,
The first thing I would do is remove the switch again & test it with a Volt-Ohmmeter in the ohms mode. This measures the electrical resistance of the switch. Attach the leads of the meter to the terminals of the switch. It dosen't matter which way the connection is made. Depress the plunger & you should read close to 0 ohms ( a short). Release the plunger & you should read infinite ohms (an open).
This will tell you for sure if the switch is good or bad. As stated by others, the capacitor is only for suppression of a 'clicking' noise in the radio when you apply the brakes.
If the switch works ok, the problem is elsewhere. I would check your connections next for corrosion -- especially all grounds in the brake lite circuit.
Hope this helps.
Fred OComment
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Re: Brake Lights
John,
The first thing I would do is remove the switch again & test it with a Volt-Ohmmeter in the ohms mode. This measures the electrical resistance of the switch. Attach the leads of the meter to the terminals of the switch. It dosen't matter which way the connection is made. Depress the plunger & you should read close to 0 ohms ( a short). Release the plunger & you should read infinite ohms (an open).
This will tell you for sure if the switch is good or bad. As stated by others, the capacitor is only for suppression of a 'clicking' noise in the radio when you apply the brakes.
If the switch works ok, the problem is elsewhere. I would check your connections next for corrosion -- especially all grounds in the brake lite circuit.
Hope this helps.
Fred OComment
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Re: Brake Lights
John, I had the same problem with my 67 coupe. I finally traced it to the turn signal switch. It is more likely the brake switch, but of the half dozen or more old Vettes I have owned,(C1's and C2's) all but one or two ultimately had to have the turn signal switch replaced for either turn signal problems or brake light problems. (the brake lights and turn signal lights are the same circuit once the voltage passes through the turn signal switch). If the brake light switch is ok, that might be the next place to investigate.Comment
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Re: Brake Lights
John, I had the same problem with my 67 coupe. I finally traced it to the turn signal switch. It is more likely the brake switch, but of the half dozen or more old Vettes I have owned,(C1's and C2's) all but one or two ultimately had to have the turn signal switch replaced for either turn signal problems or brake light problems. (the brake lights and turn signal lights are the same circuit once the voltage passes through the turn signal switch). If the brake light switch is ok, that might be the next place to investigate.Comment
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Re: B Light Capacitor
Capacitor is there on radio equipped cars. It's job it to filter turn on/off transients that can radiate from wiring runs (can you say broadcast antenna?) when pedal is actuated.
Early implementation was with Delco Remy metal can electrolytic cap mounted between ground and secondary side of switch. Cap gave high frequency turn on/off components a path to ground to defeat radiation. This system was quickly dropped after '63.
My guess.... What if RF cap fails and goes short? You step on brakes, draw 'infinite' current, pop fuse (hopefully) then have NO BRAKE LIGHTS!!!!
Later system used wax/foil capacitor placed in parallel across brake light switch contacts. Accomplishes same function by forming an RC filter in lamp line. But, by being in parallel to the switch if it fails open, you simply hear 'click' in radio. If it fails closed, your brake lights simply stay on.
So, bottom line is lack of having cap connected to switch is NOT the source of our intermittent problem....Comment
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Re: B Light Capacitor
Capacitor is there on radio equipped cars. It's job it to filter turn on/off transients that can radiate from wiring runs (can you say broadcast antenna?) when pedal is actuated.
Early implementation was with Delco Remy metal can electrolytic cap mounted between ground and secondary side of switch. Cap gave high frequency turn on/off components a path to ground to defeat radiation. This system was quickly dropped after '63.
My guess.... What if RF cap fails and goes short? You step on brakes, draw 'infinite' current, pop fuse (hopefully) then have NO BRAKE LIGHTS!!!!
Later system used wax/foil capacitor placed in parallel across brake light switch contacts. Accomplishes same function by forming an RC filter in lamp line. But, by being in parallel to the switch if it fails open, you simply hear 'click' in radio. If it fails closed, your brake lights simply stay on.
So, bottom line is lack of having cap connected to switch is NOT the source of our intermittent problem....Comment
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