C-3 Door lock questions

[Michael C.]

I am in the process of cleaning up work done by "Bubba" on the inside of my 76's doors. Rods are bent, lock cylinders and pawls were removed, door handles replaced with non-GM foreign repro parts.

1. Is there a preferred method for cleaning the lock mechanism and relubing it? I'm talking about part that latches over the striker. Really dirty.

2. Are there specific things I should look out for when buying the key lock cylinders? Specific vendors or makers?... I want things to be correct. Also, in none of the catalogs does anyone mention key codes. What do I have to do to get a proper D coded key along with my lock cylinders, or can I?

Any other advice for rehabilitating the inside of the doors?

Thanks.

[Chuck S.]

Re: C-3 Door lock questions

Mike, if you are talking about the latch (approximately 6" long X 3" wide X 1" thick, zinc plated and riveted together), there is not much that can be done except to soak it in a solvent such as mineral spirits (paint thinner) and use a small brush to remove as much internal/external dirt and grease as you can. The longer you work with it, the cleaner you can get it. Blow it dry with air, then re-lubricate the latch everywhere internal parts rub, but not excessively or indiscriminately.

Unfortunately, the "D" code is only the keyway code...to get a key that works, you will still need a four(?) character alpha-numeric code. It may not be necessary to buy the locks, but if you do, NOS locks will be supplied with keys. It will be better to stick with your original key if you ever intend to have the car judged; new or different locks will likely have keyway codes that will be functional, but incorrect for your car.

You can simply take the new locks (NOS, used, etc.) and the key you want to operate them to a locksmith, and he can re-configure the tumblers for your old keys. A locksmith would rather work with a lock or key than a code anyway, because having the code is only valuable if he can find the code/tumbler spec in a manual about 2" thick. I found they would rather just work with the lock/keys than take the time to look up the code.

[Jack H.]

Add-on

Advice Chuck gave you is very sound. Here are a few more FYI observations:

(1) Keyway encoding issue on Shark cars (A/B, C/D, Etc.) are tested during Operations Check and are an automatic failure criteria during Performance Verification (don't ask why similar provisos aren't in effect for '67 Corvettes--the first year of keyway encoded lock/key sets).

(2) Some locks can NOT be re-coded by your local locksmith without leaving 'telltale' evidence of tampering that will result in deduction(s). Example: door locks--judges check for the outer bezel to be 360-degree crimped and replacement bezels provided locksmiths who open and repair these locks have four discrete fold-over tabs.

(3) The 'high end' Covette locksmithing services supplied by factory concours experienced sources like Jessups (advertizes in Driveline) are an exception, but expect to pay the 'freight' for their service/knowledge.

(4) The rolling sequence of keyway encoding (A/B=67, C/D=68, and so on) was a GM corporate wide policy. So, if you can locate a 'donor' car at a scrap yard whose locks are 'untouched' that's the same year as your car (on an n-tuple of 5 away), you can harvest a 'correct/original' set of locks for your car without forking out the big $$$. However, not everyone is poor in $$$ and rich in personal time to walk the yards and scavange, so this isn't a universal 'fix' ESPECIALLY if you're 'trapped' in a major east/west cost metro area that's 'poor' in older car scrap yard inventory....

[Dick W.]

Re: Add-on

I have found Pat Kraus of Pat's Locks very competent and extremely reasonable for his services. I believe that he advertises in the Driveline. I am sure that Dr. McCagh has his phone #.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Add-on

(2) Some locks can NOT be re-coded by your local locksmith without leaving 'telltale' evidence of tampering that will result in deduction(s). Example: door locks...

Jack, I remembered some of the locks can't be worked on without removing the bezel, but I thought the door lock cylinders were "back loaded", i.e. could be disassembled and rebuilt from the lever end. It may be the rear storage compartment lock I am remembering. It has been awhile...the alarm lock switch definitely falls in the "bezel destruct" category.