need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

[mike 32580]

I sure could use the help of you experts.
My 65 396 will idle all day but will die when I take it out on the road. I might get a 1/2 mile or so and it quits. i thought it was a fuel supply proble. and had the carb rebuiult, replaced the fuel filter, cleqaned the tank and put a new pick up screen in it.Still quits.
It is equipped with a point distributor.Today I replaced the points, condesor and coil. Still no luck.
Any help on what to try next would be appreciated.
Mike

[Jon #40768]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

This is probably obvious, but have you checked the fuel pump?

[mike 32580]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Yep. Seems ok. I really thouhgt it was fuel supply and went throught it pretty well.
Thanks for the reply.
mike

[Les Jacobs]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Hi Mike Can you provide a little more info about how it dies? For instance, does it seem to run ok for the first 1/2 mile, then quit suddenly or does it sputter to a halt. Does it restart immediately, or do you have to wait for it to cool down first. After restarting (Im assuming it does here), can you drive another 1/2 mile, or does it die more suddenly. After it dies, do you have spark? Les

[Clem Z.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

connect a 12 volt light to the + side of the coil and see if the light goes out when the car stalls,if it does you have a electrical problem to hunt for.

[Jerry N.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Check the connectors on the wiring harness. I had the same problem when I turned.

[Bill W.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

If you lose all power wiggle the wire loom at the firewall junction while someone has the key in the start position. If you dont lose power check the rubber fuel hoses (2). 1 at the fuel pump & one at the sending unit ,they could be sucking closed....Bill

[mike 32580]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Les,
It sputters to a halt. Restart takes a bit and then it only runs for a few seconds.
After it cools down it will start and idle fine and will restart fine after a sitting idle up to warm up. It only quits once I get going.
Sure makes for short trips.
I appreciate any help.
Thanks again.
Mike

[Jim T.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

You have replaced a lot of components of the ignition system. I have not had a ballast resister ignition car in some time, so would think the ballast resister would either be good or bad and not cause the problem you have discribed. Clem'a electrical check is a good one. If your centrifical advance is sticking in the fully advanced position it would be noticable after the RPM's advanced it and you came to a stop. I had this problem once, but it would not kill the engine. Also had a problem once where my 70 would die pulling off the interstate and coming to a stop on the off ramp. The car would start again with no more problems. This problem stopped after I removed the distributor and shimmed it for recommended clearance. Good luck on finding the problem.

[Roy B.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Mike try disconnecting the wire coming from the harness to your coil , then connect a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the coil, start the car and drive it. If it does the same thing the coil is shorting, replace the coil or the points condenser is bad.

[Les Jacobs]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Hi Mike I've taken a fair number of "short trips" myself over the past few months, so my troubleshooting isn't nearly as efficient as most of the guys on this board. My take on your symptoms, it could still be either gas or ignition, but it is likely temp related so you need to troubleshoot quickly. Next time it dies, try to isolate whether its a fuel or ignition problem while its still hot. First (just after you've pulled over), pop the air cleaner and look down the carb throat while someone else pumps the gas pedal a few times. Verify that accelerator pump still shoots several strong streams of gas. If it does, on to the ignition circuit. Perform a crude ignition test to verify spark. I normally take a timing light, and clamp on the coil high voltage lead. Crank it over and look for a regular strobe flash. (Not trying to verify timing, just that a spark exists) If none or very irregular flashing, you can use a multimeter to check the low voltage at the coil (+ terminal should be 12V and the -terminal, 12 or almost 0v depending on whether the points are open or closed). If you have 12 at the + coil, and 12 or almost 0 at the minus, crank it over and verify that the coil minus termial changes. If it doesn't problem likely the points, or condensor (or the connection between coil and points) Good Luck Les

[John C.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

I would bet that it's a bad fuel pump. Check it again.

A bad fuel pump can pump but not provide enough pressure or volume to keep the bowls filled.

[David W.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

I'm with John. I'm betting on a bad pump as well. I've yet to find a good way to test one that's acting up.

[Wayne W.]

Re: need help with 65 396 that won't stay running

Just think, you will keep the mileage low this way. It will be worth a fortune in a few years. Sounds like a fuel problem to me too. Pump or pump rod?.

[Les Jacobs]

Correction

When checking the low voltage at the coil, the only time 12v will register at the +terminal of the coil, will be when it is cranking. If the key is in the ON (not Start) position, the ballast resistor is in line with the coil, and you should see approximately 6-8 volts at the +coil terminal, and either the same voltage or almost zero at the -coil terminal (depending on the point position).