Engine codes. What do I have?

[Brandon Metzger]

I have '72 vette. The Vin says it is a BB car. The original engine is gone. I have recently bought an correct casting numbered 454. However, I am selling the engine in the car and I am trying to figure out what I currently have under the hood. The code on the heads are PS. Someone today told me that those are 396 codes. The casting number on the block is 361959 with a date code of C24 73. I looked up the casting number and found it to be a 454 light truck.

So do I have:

A. a 454
B. a 396
C. a 454 block with 396 heads

Also, when did GM stop making 396 engines? I didn't think they made them as late as '73. But if the answer is C then I guess It wont matter.

Thank you,
Brandon

[Ted S.]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

Brandon,

Per mortec 361959.....454.......73-90...2 or 4 bolt. C 24 73 is a date code of March 24 1973. The heads will have a casting number under the valve cover and a similar date code. Also if you can get the stamping off of the stamp pad that will tell what it was built as. Hope this helps. Ted

[Brandon Metzger]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

Ted,
Thank you for the information. You have confirmed what I had thought. Will I run into problems if I take the valve cover off to look for the number or is it pretty straight forward. I haven't done any engine work yet and I would like to confirm the heads go with the block but if I am opening up a hornets nest then......

Thanks,
Brandon

[Mike Cobine]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

If you are pulling an engine to put in the correct one, then pulling a valve cover is no big deal.

But if it is, then you shouldn't pull the engine yourself, and should have somone else do it.

The joy of old Corvettes are twofold: driving and getting your hands dirty. Grab a service manual and have fun.

[Mike Cobine]

Engine work - find local club

One of the pieces of advice I give often is to locate and join your local club. This is true regardless of them being independent, NCCC, or NCRS. Generally, Corvette people like Corvettes and will help others learn about them.

We can tell you all day long about changing valve covers, engines, and so on, but having a fellow club member or two in your garage helping you do it can't be replaced by the Internet.

Most on here who look at these things as minor have probably been doing them for 25 years or more. To the first-timer, having someone local who can come over and help is worth a dozen computers and two dozen Corvette forums.

[Brandon Metzger]

Re: Engine work - find local club

Mike,
I agree. And to your advice, I just read you post after comeing back in from the garage. Yes, hands a little dirty but every time I do a little something on the car I leave with a smile. You are correct, the valve cove was a non issue. I am glad I did it because the bolts were very very loss. Almost could lossen them with my hand.

Best regards,
Brandon

[Brandon Metzger]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

Ted,
I headed to the garage right after leaveing my message. Yes, it is 1 a.m., but funny enough I notice there are others with me.

Anyway hear are all the numbers. I am new to the numbers game and so all of these don't make sense to me. So if you could shed some light....Great.

Starting from the inside valve and working out toward the front of the engine.

L28 8
PA88
GM 3T
3931063

I think I have all these correct. If something doesn't make sense let me know.

Regards, and thanks for the help,
Brandon

[Mike Cobine]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

I don't have my numbers handy, but this much you can have.

The L 28 8 is Dec. 28, 1968, so they are Model 1969. Which is good, because 3931063 were used on 390 hp and 400 hp 427s in 1969.

They were also used on 68-69 Camaro, Chevelle, Nova, and passenger 396s, passenger 427, and 70-72 402s.

They are oval port intakes.

They are 96.4 cc chamber volume for 10.25:1 compression ratio. They used 2.070 intakes and 1.725 exhausts.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: Engine work - find local club

Be sure when you put them back on, you do not tighten the bolts too tight. This bends the cover so the section right by the bolt squeezes the gasket tight but the rest bows up and leaks.

They are supposed to be some really low torque figure like 12 in-lbs or maybe 20 in-lbs. I can't remember and don't have a service manual handy. Notice that is INCH-lbs, not FOOT-lbs.

If you are not judging, the best bet is to get some of the long retainers that spread the load about 4 inches along the valve cover. They are available from Chevy if you want that Genuine GM feeling, or from most auto parts place is you want to retain some of your wallet.

[Brandon Metzger]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

Mike,
Thanks for the help. I truely appriciate it. I looks like what you are saying is backing up what I am finding out on my own. I found info saying they are oval ports, closed, for a 396, 402, 427.

I did put the bolts back on and I do have the pieces you were talking about and I also tried not to over tighten. I know this is an issue on many things.

Now, I have another question. I am trying to sell the engine. You said the date was good ..why? Are they more valuable sold seperatly from the block or is the whole thing better sold all together. The engine is in good shape, painted a nasty peeling gray but runs well, valves clean, and so on. Well, anyway I do appriciat you help. I am now stuck figureing out how best to sell this. I think 2 a.m. is late enough, I am heading to bed and will hopefuly talk a little more tomorrow.

good night
Brandon

[Mike Cobine]

Re: Engine codes. What do I have?

Selling is more art and black magic than science. Depending on where you try to sell it, the heads may be more valuable as "1969 427 - 390/400 hp oval port heads" than stuck on the block. Granted you think a complete running engine is the big bucks, but you might get more with the heads listed as something "valuable" and then selling the 454 short block.

Corvette swaps will value the heads. Geenral car swaps will value the engine.

Then again, you may get more for a complete running engine. To max the money, have the engine complete, flywheel, starter, carb, fuel pump, etc. Fire it up and run it and you will get much more interest.

Of course, a loose engine with no water is a nasty thing to be around if you are not very careful. It is best if you can rig up some type of stand to hold it or at least be a wide platform to persuade it not to jump and turn turtle on you if someone revs it up a little.

You can run a small block 17 minutes without any water or cooling before it seizes, according to a student I had who was at the Chevrolet tech center in St. Louis. Apparently, they had timed several of them. I don't know how long a big block will go. So start it, rev it slowly and carefully, and shut it down in about a minute. Give it an hour to cool before another demonstration.

Or figure how to fill it with water and connect the top hose to the intake of the water pump.