Spark plug removal From Aluminum Head

[Clem Z.]

Re: Update -- Success!!

just remember the wider the gap the harder it is on the ignition components as the system must build up more engergy to jump the wider gap. GM was once up to .080 and no only were the cars hard to start in cold weather but the spark ate up the caps,rotors and even the plug wires because the spark jumped thru the insulation to ground. i never go over .045 no matter what the specs are.

[Larry E. Howard]

Re: Update -- Success!!

Joe,
The plugs were 609s so I assume they were original, Although I did not find any anti-sieze on the threads. I tried a .045 feeler in the one plug I have out and it would not go. I tried the .035 and it went with ease. So I thought the original gap would be .035. If it was .050 then someone has removed them and regapped them. this would explain the lack of anti-sieze.

Kroil is a penetrating oil that is often used to lift carbon from gun bores. Everything I have used it on it has worked well when liquid wrench wouldn't budge, Kroil is especially effective when there is oxidation present such as cad plating, aluminum, or rust. I just ordered another can. It is $15 + shipping for a 12 oz aerosol can. I wouldn't pay that kind of price unless it worked. Being pricy like it is it's no wonder it is hard to find. The auto store didn't have a clue what Kroil was. I called the local gun shop he knew what it was but did not have any. I have always found it to work best if allowed to soak for 24+ hrs

I will try to remove the remaining 3 plugs on the right side today. When I get everything back together and the cooling system refilled I will try the 4 on the other side.

I want to thank Joe, Clem, and everyone else for their input. It is consoling to do this work after you get some input from folks with experience. When I complete the job I will leave a new post with the torques and methods used for future reference. I tried the archives before the left this post and found no hits.
Thanks A Bunch guys!!!!
Larry