I am ready to install a new pilot bushing in my '66 SB. Before tapping it in, I noticed a ridge in the shaft that would prevent the bushing from fully seating. The ridge is on only about a third of the shaft, but it looks intentional. According to my measurement, the bushing would stick out about 10 thousandths of an inch. Is it supposed to seat flush? Or is 10 thousandths nothing to worry about?
-
-
Ron, I'll jump in w/little knowledge...
and say that .010 would not make the slightest bit of difference. Typically, I hammer them in "flush", but I don't think this is like checking crank/rod bearing clearance. Just my thoughts. To confuse the question further, I prefer the needle bearing pilot bushing from the General. Best, Dennis -
Re: Ron, I'll jump in w/little knowledge...
If you normally get them flush, then the lip I see would have to be smoothed out. Since it doesn't go all the way around, it didn't seem natural.
Regarding the bushing, I have read all the posts and I am going to stick with the bushing. The one I took out was original with 200k on it. The one that came with the Luk clutch is identical to the original, so I am going to stick with success. I have seen some of the after market ones and they look like steel. The roller sounds interesting, but this has been a very dependable and fun driver for 35 years, so I stay stock unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise.Comment
-
Re: Ron, I'll jump in w/little knowledge...
Ron-----
I don't understand where the "lip" that you're talking about is. Is it on the bushing, the crankshaft, or the input shaft of the transmission?In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: Ron, I'll jump in w/little knowledge...
The bearing types may work better but if they fail they are difficult to remove. The bushing is the perfect size for a 5/8-11 tap which makes removal easy.Comment
-
Re: Ron, I'll jump in w/little knowledge...
Joe
The lip or ridge is on the crankshaft. It is definitely high enough to stop the bushing from completely seating flush, but not by much. It could be that because the original had been in there for 38 years, it formed some sort of a build-up behind the bushing, but I didn't want to hone it out if it belongs there.
I am being a bit paranoid because I put in a new clutch last year and something went wrong. I was getting a lot of vibration in the pedal that felt like it was coming from the throwout bearing. This time I am replacing everything, springs, fork, etc. This time I went with the Luk which seems closer to the original instead of the Centerforce that I put in last year. I don't want to go back in again, so I am looking closely at everything.Comment
-
vibrations
on a SBC the orignal clutch was balanced with the flywheel. that is why they had a "X" stamped on the pressure plate and flywheel. i would take the flywheel and pressure plate to a good auto machine shop,have them balance the flywheel and then have them balance the pressure plate to make sure you get no vibrations.Comment
-
Re: vibrations
I just had that done. It cost more to have the balancing done than it did for the clutch kit. I was amazed at the chunk of weight they had to put on the new pressure plate that is supposedly balanced at the factory. The machinist assured me it was money well spent.Comment
-
Re: vibrations
Ron------
It IS money well spent. I would NEVER, EVER install a new clutch and/or flywheel in a car without having the all the components (i.e. pressure plate, disc and flywheel) precision balanced. Failing to do so will often result in the need to "go back in".In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
Comment