Trailing Arm replacment

**Jim** · July 28, 1999, 08:07 AM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

It's really a pretty straight forward swap. Regarding the shims, just replace them exactly as you removed them. I assume you only disconnected the camber rod at the bearing support, so that should be a simple bolt-up also. These 2 things should get the alignment close enough to be able to make a brief drive to the alignment shop (required). I also recommend replacing all of the hardware if it has any wear/age on it (trailing arm bolt/nut, spring bolt/nut/bushings, etc.) Also check your lower shock mounts to make sure there is no thread or other damage. As for the parking brakes, if the unit did not come with new components, I would replace them now and would also replace the other side and adjust/break them in together as per the manual procedure. Remember, the susp. bolts need to be torqued with the weight of the car on the suspension and the trailing arm bolts should only be final torqued after the alignment is done. Since you have the assembly apart, check all other associated parts for wear, including the U-joints on the 1/2 shaft. Remember, follow the procedure for assembly/adjustment as per the shop manual for the whole procedure. If you have a specific component/procedure question, feel free to E-mail me. Good luck, Jim

**Jim** · July 28, 1999, 08:07 AM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

It's really a pretty straight forward swap. Regarding the shims, just replace them exactly as you removed them. I assume you only disconnected the camber rod at the bearing support, so that should be a simple bolt-up also. These 2 things should get the alignment close enough to be able to make a brief drive to the alignment shop (required). I also recommend replacing all of the hardware if it has any wear/age on it (trailing arm bolt/nut, spring bolt/nut/bushings, etc.) Also check your lower shock mounts to make sure there is no thread or other damage. As for the parking brakes, if the unit did not come with new components, I would replace them now and would also replace the other side and adjust/break them in together as per the manual procedure. Remember, the susp. bolts need to be torqued with the weight of the car on the suspension and the trailing arm bolts should only be final torqued after the alignment is done. Since you have the assembly apart, check all other associated parts for wear, including the U-joints on the 1/2 shaft. Remember, follow the procedure for assembly/adjustment as per the shop manual for the whole procedure. If you have a specific component/procedure question, feel free to E-mail me. Good luck, Jim

**Gary Schisler** · July 28, 1999, 08:26 AM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Paul, I did this same thing on my 66 about 18 months ago. It is prety easy and not a real challenge. The hard part is getting all of the pieces off. There are special tools out there to remove the shocks, etc. The hard part for me was getting the old pivot bolt on the front attachment out, without doing damage to the forward part of the wheel well's fiberglass. I finally went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8" steel rod about two feet long and I put a slight curve in it to allow me to reach the bolt but clear the wheel well. That was my rather elongated punch. Gary 21316 Pittsburgh Tri-State Chapter

**Gary Schisler** · July 28, 1999, 08:26 AM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Paul, I did this same thing on my 66 about 18 months ago. It is prety easy and not a real challenge. The hard part is getting all of the pieces off. There are special tools out there to remove the shocks, etc. The hard part for me was getting the old pivot bolt on the front attachment out, without doing damage to the forward part of the wheel well's fiberglass. I finally went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8" steel rod about two feet long and I put a slight curve in it to allow me to reach the bolt but clear the wheel well. That was my rather elongated punch. Gary 21316 Pittsburgh Tri-State Chapter

**Mack Frazier** · July 28, 1999, 01:16 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

I did the same thing last November. I bought the fully assembled arms, including a new SS park brake and rotor. The rotors and spindles were dialed in when I got them. I bought the whole assembly because I didn't want to be down too long and I had doubts about being able to set the run-out correctly. I also replaced the lower shock mounts, half-shafts, u-joints, spring, calipers & pads, shocks, flex brake hoses, park brake cable and struts. I used SS trailing arm bolts and shims. My biggest problem was getting the thing apart. I had to cut one of the lower shock mount brackets with a cutting wheel. The upper shock mount bolt on the other side was froze up and I had to cut it out. I also had trouble getting the u-joint flange loose from the trailing arm. Soak the thing down with WD40 for a day or two before you start. Be careful when you unbolt the spring from the trailing arm. Do it just like the manual says, using a big C-Clamp. There's a lot of energy stored there. Get the car up as high as you can to facilitate working on it. Other than getting things loose and watching the spring, it's a pretty straight-forward operation. It took me one weekend and about three nights, due to all the cutting. It helps to have a helper when you put the trailing arm back in and try to stab the pivot bolt back into it. I didn't, so used a jack and it took a while. Let us know if you have any questions as you go. Later, Mack

**Mack Frazier** · July 28, 1999, 01:16 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

I did the same thing last November. I bought the fully assembled arms, including a new SS park brake and rotor. The rotors and spindles were dialed in when I got them. I bought the whole assembly because I didn't want to be down too long and I had doubts about being able to set the run-out correctly. I also replaced the lower shock mounts, half-shafts, u-joints, spring, calipers & pads, shocks, flex brake hoses, park brake cable and struts. I used SS trailing arm bolts and shims. My biggest problem was getting the thing apart. I had to cut one of the lower shock mount brackets with a cutting wheel. The upper shock mount bolt on the other side was froze up and I had to cut it out. I also had trouble getting the u-joint flange loose from the trailing arm. Soak the thing down with WD40 for a day or two before you start. Be careful when you unbolt the spring from the trailing arm. Do it just like the manual says, using a big C-Clamp. There's a lot of energy stored there. Get the car up as high as you can to facilitate working on it. Other than getting things loose and watching the spring, it's a pretty straight-forward operation. It took me one weekend and about three nights, due to all the cutting. It helps to have a helper when you put the trailing arm back in and try to stab the pivot bolt back into it. I didn't, so used a jack and it took a while. Let us know if you have any questions as you go. Later, Mack

**Paul Gordon** · July 28, 1999, 03:02 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Thanks guys for your advice. You have given me a number of good tips to follow. I'll let you know how things go ....

Thanks Paul

PS - Does anyone know the torque specs for the rear suspension bolts off hand ?

**Paul Gordon** · July 28, 1999, 03:02 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Thanks guys for your advice. You have given me a number of good tips to follow. I'll let you know how things go ....

Thanks Paul

PS - Does anyone know the torque specs for the rear suspension bolts off hand ?

**Jim** · July 28, 1999, 04:16 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Any of the repair manuals have the specs, be it factory shop manual or after-market (ie Haynes). The factory assembly manual also lists these specs. If you don't have a factory shop manual and an assembly manual, I highly recommend that you get one of each before you start as they contain a lot of extra info., such as how to perform certain adjustments and break-in procedures.

**Jim** · July 28, 1999, 04:16 PM

Re: Trailing Arm replacment

Any of the repair manuals have the specs, be it factory shop manual or after-market (ie Haynes). The factory assembly manual also lists these specs. If you don't have a factory shop manual and an assembly manual, I highly recommend that you get one of each before you start as they contain a lot of extra info., such as how to perform certain adjustments and break-in procedures.

**Brandon K.** · July 28, 1999, 08:14 PM

Stainless Trailing arm bolts

Just a point of info: The T-arm front bolts are not made of stainless steel, only the shims are. The ads are a bit deceiving the way they are written, so I consulted with Vette Brakes over the phone, and they said it would be way too expensive to make a SS bolt with enough strength to do the job. So, just dont be disappointed when your "stainless" bolts start to show some rust.

Brandon

**Brandon K.** · July 28, 1999, 08:14 PM

Stainless Trailing arm bolts

Just a point of info: The T-arm front bolts are not made of stainless steel, only the shims are. The ads are a bit deceiving the way they are written, so I consulted with Vette Brakes over the phone, and they said it would be way too expensive to make a SS bolt with enough strength to do the job. So, just dont be disappointed when your "stainless" bolts start to show some rust.

Brandon

Trailing Arm replacment

Trailing Arm replacment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Debug Information