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I've had good luck with Eastwood's "Factory Gray" manifold coating, after lightly-blasting the surface. No touch-ups, still looked great five years later. For a more natural (and more expensive) appearance, I had Jerry MacNeish ( www.z28camaro.com ) "re-skin" the stock manifolds on my '69 Z/28 - they'll never rust again.
I just got my manifolds back from Jerry and I am looking foward to never having to deal with rust or staining ever again.I have used Jerry to re-skin my intake manifold and my bell housing and now my exchaust manifolds.I still dont understand the process of excactly what he does?
John Thanks for recomending him to me.He has bean an absolute pleasure to deal with.
There was an article published in "The Restorer" several years ago outlining a process to use a high copper paint and bake them in the oven until the manifolds are a dark gray.
I've used this method since that article and have been happy with the results each and every time. It's something you can do and it costs very little.
I use Rustoleum Copper as it has the highest copper content. Follow the article closely and don't use too much copper spray as it will flake if the coating is too thick.
A recent Restorer (maybe 2 issues ago) had an article that used powdered graphite and kerosene. Have not tried it yet but the author says it holds up great and is easy to touch up if you need it.
I presume the use of a dressing of any type is a personal choice; however, if the intet is to judge the car as it would have left the factory, shouldn't the manifolds have paint residue (dust) left from when the engine w/manifolds was painted rather than be bright clean like fresh cast iron?
Charlie
FOR JUDGING PURPOSES, the manifolds should have NO "dressing", and show generous overspray, as they were in place during engine paint. Same holds true for the "French locks" , of course.
Once you've "been there.......done that", then you might want your manifolds to just look clean and rust free. Actually, I have never seen a cast iron manifold without a certain amount of surface rust......even when brand new. The slightest exposure to the elements, during shipping/storage etc. will immediately create discernable rust.
You are absolutely correct. The manifolds didn't just get a light mist but were NAILED quite heavily with moly orange enamel. The only part of that casting that wouldn't have been painted would be the back side and some of the bottom. The paint was applied with a pressure feed paint gun so there was a lot of material coming out of that nozzle.
If the manifolds are prepared correctly, the orange paint will turn to black in the hottest areas and stay that way for many years. Areas of the manifold that are extended away from the main part of the casting, such as the alternator mounting ear, will stay orange for decades. If the manifolds are bead blasted and not washed after, the paint won't stick and will flake off. This IS the correct look for a correctly restored car.
This is the way all 63'67 manifolds should be prepared and restored if accuracy is the target. (with the possible exception of some 67 small blocks) I don't know about 68 and newer.
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