'66 - 427 / 425 Question - NCRS Discussion Boards

'66 - 427 / 425 Question

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  • Zachary K.
    Very Frequent User
    • March 1, 1986
    • 162

    '66 - 427 / 425 Question

    Trying to cure an oil leak at the crank seal timing case cover. Vibration dampner has been sleeved and vibration dampner seal is new and installed correctly. Before this gets put back together I am wondering if an oil slinger belongs on the crank before the timing case cover is installed. I have checked the GM Illustrated parts manual (mine is effective Sept '80) and it shows a slinger on a page listed as 1955 to 1968 V8 Engine, unfortunately the part is not serviced so I can't go to the application section to see if this engine gets one or is supposed to have one. This engine was rebuilt recently and it might have been left off and I'd like to install one if it is supposed to be there just to keep the extra oil away from the seal area.

    Thanks for the help!!
    1967 L79 Sunfire Yellow Black Leather Convertible- Duntov
    1969 L71 LeMans Blue, Bright Blue Convertible
    1970 L46 Monza Red, Light Saddle Convertible - Duntov
    1976 L82 Classic White, Firethorn
    2013 LS7 Black, Ebony, Convertible


    Moved on -
    2006 LS2 Black, Ebony, Convertible
  • Michael H.
    Expired
    • January 29, 2008
    • 7477

    #2
    Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question

    Zachary,

    Is this an original 66 block and correct original timing chain cover? If so, the problem is probably the fact that 65 and 66 big blocks didn't have dowel pins in the front of the case for the timing chain cover alignment and the cover was allowed to move around quite a bit. In place of the dowel pins, GM used a different method of aligning the cover/seal. With the cover loosly installed, a special Kent Moore tool that resembled the hub of the harmonic balancer was to be slid over the nose of the crankshaft to center the cover/seal before the cover bolts were secured.

    If this Kent Moore tool isn't available, you can use the existing balancer if you install it just far enough to get the hub into the seal, then snug as many bolts as you can with the balancer in place. Remove the balancer again and secure the rest.

    Joe Lucia told me the correct Kent Moore tool is still available but I don't have the number that he gave me handy. If he doesn't see this post and give you the number, I'll dig it out for you. It's here somewhere in all this rubble.

    Michael

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43193

      #3
      Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question

      Michael and Zachary----

      The tool is Kent-Moore J-22102. Be prepared for a stiff price, though. Most of the Kent-Moore tools have increased in price DRAMATICALLY over the past few years. Some have doubled or tripled.

      Your application did not use an oil slinger. Most small blocks didn't either. The inclusion of that item in the P&A diagram is an anachronism.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Craig S.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 1997
        • 2471

        #4
        Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

        I sent an email inquiry to Kent-Moore yesterday with this tool number, and received the following response:

        "Craig,

        Thank you for your inquiry. The list price on the item you provided is as follows:

        J-22102 = 139.60 item is in stock

        Best Regards,
        June"

        I am guessing this is basically a "sleeve" with the OD being the harmonic balancer seating surface OD, and the ID being a slip fit on the crankshaft snout. Seems like a fairly easy tool to fabricate for much less.......Craig

        Comment

        • Michael H.
          Expired
          • January 29, 2008
          • 7477

          #5
          Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

          Craig,

          I agree. In fact, if you have an old balancer from any passenger car big block, it could be sacrificed to make the tool. Wouldn't be difficult to remove most of the balancer part from the hub and then just remove a bit of material from the ID so it slip fits. That way you would still have the keyway so the key in the c/shaft snout wouldn't have to be removed in order to use a sleeve without the keyway.

          Michael

          Comment

          • Clem Z.
            Expired
            • January 1, 2006
            • 9427

            #6
            Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

            craig i made mine from a piece of aluminum with a bevel cut on one outside edge to help insersion past the seal. you must also mill a groove in the inside diameter to clear the key in the crank

            Comment

            • Tom D.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • September 30, 1981
              • 2126

              #7
              Great Discussion - Thanks! *NM*

              https://MichiganNCRS.org
              Michigan Chapter
              Tom Dingman

              Comment

              • Craig S.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 1997
                • 2471

                #8
                Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

                Clem and Mike - both good suggestions! I have a metal lathe so this is not that difficult a project...the other thought I had was a BB crank socket could be sacrificed, but I am not sure they fit tight enough.....I have one but haven't checked yet....Craig

                Comment

                • Clem Z.
                  Expired
                  • January 1, 2006
                  • 9427

                  #9
                  Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

                  mine is 2.335 OD,1.605 ID and 1.250 thick with a notch in the ID for crank key clearance

                  Comment

                  • Michael H.
                    Expired
                    • January 29, 2008
                    • 7477

                    #10
                    Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

                    Joe/Craig,

                    I was just looking in the factory O.H. manual and happened to notice the number was different than the one that was posted in the above thread. The number in the book is J-21202, not J-22102. Just wondered if this number would be a lot cheaper than the one that you submitted to Kent Moore. Hope so.

                    Michael

                    Comment

                    • Craig S.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • June 30, 1997
                      • 2471

                      #11
                      Re: '66 - 427 / 425 Question- price update

                      Michael - I was going by Joes number here, I don't know to be truthful which is right. I will probably just make my own however, I bet Kent Moore has a minumum price of $100 LOL. Here is their website if you want to check, just email, and they will mail you back.....Craig




                      Kent - Moore Tools

                      Comment

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