C2 vent window questions

[Kevin Brown]

I've been looking for the "trick" to removing the vent window frame on a 1966. I have the entire assembly out of the door and have removed the glass from the frame. It looks as if the two small rivits on the bottom "hinge pin" (the one that goes into the regulator) will have to be drilled out. Is this correct? Also, how does the vent window weatherstrip come out? How is the Fuzzy liner in the main window channel held in and how do you replace it? Thanks!

[Scott Butville]

Re: C2 vent window questions

If it's a coupe, you need to drill out the upper pivot rivet. That rivet has a shoulder, so make sure you have another before you ruin it. On a convertible, you have to get the frame down far enough that the pivot comes out of the hole in the die cast frame. My memory might be fuzzy here, but aren't there screws holding the lower horizontal channel to the die cast frame that you could remove to allow the glass channel to move down?

[Tim E.]

Re: C2 vent window questions

As Scott points out, no drilling is necessary to remove the glass frame on a convertible. Remove the regulator by removing the lower glass frame pivot shaft bolt and 2 screws that attach the regulator to the diecast frame. This provides enough play to slip the upper pivot shaft out of the diecast frame.

I can send you some photos and diagrams that another forum member and I shared when we were trying to understand how to disassemble the fuzzy channel. Send me an email (tehlers@hess.com) if you still need those instructions!

[Jean C.]

Re: C2 vent window questions

Replacing Window Channel Whiskers in C2
Vent Window Frames

I finished the installation of the vent window frame window channel whiskers (WCW) in my ’64 convertible this morning so this is sort of fresh in my mind.

To begin disassembly, drill out the rivet that is on the bottom end of the window frame channel (WFC). Next, drill out the second rivet that is just below the vent window frame. With these rivets removed, the WCW will slip from the two bent-over metal tabs holding the very top of the channel in the frame.

Assuming you have purchased a new set of WCW, you likely also received four female rivets with the two WCWs. These rivets replace the ones drilled out, two to a side. Whatever the source, you will need four small rivets. Do a trial fit of the new rivets in the holes in the WCF and in the WCW. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully straighten the two small metal tabs near the top of the vent window to vertical.

Reassembly is a breeze with two sets of hands, one to hold, one to peen the rivets and bend the tabs; however, one person can accomplish the task.

Begin reassembly at the bottom of the frame using one of the rivets. Insert the rivet in the same direction as the one drilled out and peen it over. I used a clamp (hobbyist’s plier type sold at Sears) to hold the window channel whisker securely in the bottom of the frame. The WCW had a tendency to twist in the WCF due I presume to the curved shape of the WCW so a clamp helps a lot. Note that you must buck the rivet from the backside so here is where the other set of hands come into play. Install the second rivet in the same manner. Make sure all is tight and there is no unsightly gap between the stainless WCF and the stainless WCW.

The top portion of the window channel whisker is held in the frame by the two tabs noted above. Clamp the WCW into the WCF for a good fit. Using a drift, a small hammer and a buck, fold over the tab and seat it well on the WCW. Note that the two tabs are built into the rubber weather strip of the vent window so position your buck accordingly. Also note that on disassembly, I observed that the two tabs had been bent downward in the old WCW; however, to properly re-seat the tabs on the new WCW, I had to bend them upwards.

Charlie Cadenhead
#40193
Spring, TX

[Kevin Brown]

C2 vent window questions

Thanks to all for the info- The car is a convertible, and I was able to put enough pressure on the vent frame to compress the rubber and pull the upper pivot out of the hole without damaging anything. The upper pivot on my car had been replaced in the distant past with what appeared to be a piece of a 20- penny common nail brazed to the frame, and the lower T-pivot is broken at the hole where the bolt goes through it and the regulator. I'll get these items repaired and be on my way to making the vent window operational.