C2 - '66 wheel color question

[Tom Merkel]

What is the preferred black paint for '66 wheels?

Mfg.? p/n? Over-the-counter spray, etc. Any help is appreciated. It's for my neighbor who is original owner (minus about four months) of a 4-bbl, 427/425 (I think that's the rating).

The car won't be judged, but he'd like to get the color as close as he can.

Thanks.

Tom

[Tom D.]

Re: C2 - '66 wheel color question

Look for Hinckley's detailed reply about this. Not too long ago. Probably now in the archives, or possibly still on this page.

Use "edit" and "Find on this page" to search for John's last name.

Or use the link to "search archives"

[Tom D.]

Re: C2 - '66 wheel color question

As I recall, you dip the wheel in a very cheap semi gloss, let it drip dry, then paint the front with a gloss black.

[Gary B.]

We need other options; I'm not going to dip them

Tom and Tom,

I'll rephrase Tom Merkel's question. I've read John's description of how GM painted rims, but a reasonable question is, are there options in addition to the way GM did it? Dip painting an entire rim is a non-starter in my opinion. I dip painted my bumper brackets and it was a chore making a dipping tray, getting the paint the right consistency, and a huge waste of paint to boot.

I think the drips from dip painting could be mimiced by spaying a heavy coat of semi-gloss. The question is, what paint to use for the semi-gloss and what paint to use for the front gloss coat?Someone must have done this already. Please help.

Gary

[Tom D.]

I used a cheap rattle can for the glossy outside *NM*

[Chuck S.]

Re: We need other options; I'm not going to dip th

"I think the drips from dip painting could be mimiced by spaying a heavy coat of semi-gloss." Bingo!

Gary, as you said, dipping large parts is too expensive and inconvient to be reasonable. I think John was just describing the process for those that were interested in the history, and not suggesting that wheels should actually be painted that way.

On parts too large to immerse in a gallon bucket, I did as you suggested and applied the GM restoration black primer heavy to create the runs. From bead-blasting the original parts, I identified the "hanging points" for the parts, and also only found that runs and "puddling" was almost exclusively near the bottom of the parts (opposite the hanging points). This was particularly true for my rally wheels; the "puddles" at the bottom of inside rim were really hard to blast off.

Therefore, applying a heavy coat all over the part to simulate runs is un-neccesary and also ineffective because the sprayed primer behaves differently than the dipped primer...i.e. it dries quickly without much running. I found that spraying the primer heavier above and adjacent to the area of desired runs and drips got the job done. The primer used in the factory dipping process was thin...the viscosity was so low that all excess paint ran to the bottom of the part quickly with virtually no runs or drips until the bottom of the parts.

[Gary B.]

Paint choices

Chuck,

After using the GM restoration black, do you have any suggestions for the glossy top coat on the front side of the rim. Do you think Rustoleum gloss in a rattle can would give an acceptable look?
Gary

[Dave K.]

Re: Paint choices

Gary,
Gary,

I recently painted my 66 roadster wheels. They were first sandblasted. I than applied Rustoleum clean metal primer thinned with Naptha (faster drying than spirits). Let dry for about a day. Painted back of wheels and inner sections with Rustoleum semi gloss (several heavy coats thinned with Naptha). Dusted the front with semi gloss and finished the fronts with Rustoleum rattle can gloss. Came out very nice. Distinct contrast betwen semi and the gloss. Only thinned the semi enough to spray -- too much thinner flattens shade. Mounted tires on a Coates machine with a plastic insert mount bar. Worked well. Suggest waiting about a week after paint before handling as enamel and especially corrosion resistant Rustoleum is slow to cure. Set mine outside after a day in the sun to cure.

Dave Kitch
33108

[Gary B.]

Paint choices

Dave,

Thanks for the details. That information is exactly what I was looking for.

Gary

[Chuck S.]

Re: Paint choices

Sorry, Gary, I don't know the restoration details about C2s, and therefore don't have a feel for the gloss level on the front of the wheels. If you get gloss black in spray cans, however, it tends to be really glossy. If high gloss is what you need, I would think that would work fine. My personal experience is that spray cans from home stores are inconsistent, making it difficult get a good finish without heavy orange peel or runs...but, it could be that I am the inconsistent variable.

[Gary B.]

Rattle can gloss too glossy

Chuck ,

I've seen exactly what you mean when you say the rattle can gloss is too glossy. I'm working on my A-arms now and I'm just not happy with the excessive gloss that I get using Rustoleum Gloss Black from a rattle can. I'm getting real tired of painting and stripping/sanding the same A-arm...

Gary

[Dave K.]

Re: Rattle can gloss too glossy

Gary,

I used Rustoleum gloss black in a rattle can on my a-arms and Bill Collorico, a master judge from Buffalo, who was kind enough to inspect my rolling chassis, and who specializes in chassis judging, says that they were not glossy enough. When you figure the NCRS and the judging process out please let me know.

Dave Kitch
33108

[Gary B.]

Not glossy enough!

Dave,

So you mean I sanded and stripped my last test for nothing? I wonder if I just got a super-gloss mix in that particular rattle can. I guess I'll try one more time with the Rustoleum gloss.

Gary

[Dave K.]

Re: Not glossy enough!

The semi gloss Rustoleum rattle can paint tends to be a little glossier than from a quart can, thinned and sprayed. The more thinning the flatter. I also noticed that with time, the blacks flatten or become less glossy.

Dave Kitch

[Michael H.]

Re: Rattle can gloss too glossy

Chuck/Gary,

The problem with shak-em-up paint cans is the fact that they contain mostly clear and very little black pigment. (or whatever color your using) That's what makes the gloss TOO glossy. The original finish on the face side of the wheel WAS originally gloss but when done with a spray can, looks terrible. The same is true for most components of a restoration, including the Moly Orange for the enging. I know it's a lot more work and more money but the best results will be obtained with actual automotive paint store material put on with a spray gun.

The initial dip color, if described on a one to ten scale, would be somewhere around 3 or 4.

Michael