Front bearing inner race

**Shane Gee** · February 10, 2001, 08:12 PM

Front bearing inner race

I just replaced the front hub inner and outer races. One of the inner races was extremely easy to press in. I could almost push it into the hub with my fingers. (not quite) It is now fully seated and I can feel slight movement of the race if I wiggle it with my fingers. I was also with some effort, able to spin the race in the hub slightly. I am almost positive this is not normal but would appreciate some feedback on how tight the races should be. The others I pressed in were much tighter. Thanks in advance!

**Craig S.** · February 10, 2001, 09:27 PM

Re: Front bearing inner race

Shane - as you suspect, this is looser than desirable based on your comments on the other races. These should be a drive fit with a bearing driver. I belive the normal fit is a 0.001 or so interference fit. The fact that you can rock the race makes it sound as if there is some out of roundness in the hub bore, and if you can turn it at all, this is not good. You can bet that the race will spin in the hub at times, and this has probably already happened to cause the current condition. While using loctite red may prevent turning and anchor the race, if it were me I would look for another hub as this is a safety item....Craig

**Duke W.** · February 10, 2001, 09:34 PM

It's probably okay

The inner race of both bearings should slip over the spindle with a little clearance. The outer races are an interference fit and should be tight in the hub.

If you inspect the inside shoulder of the spindle, you will probably see some wear as this takes cornering loads and will slowly loosen the clearance, which is one reason why Chevrolet specifies a front bearing repack ever 30K miles. Of course, part of the repack procedure is resetting the end play on assembly.

The portions of the spindle that bear directly against the inner races should show some burnishing, but no noticeable wear.

Duke

**Duke W.** · February 10, 2001, 09:39 PM

Incorrect

He's talking about the inner races. The inner races are designed as a slip fit on the spindle and should be free to rotate on the spindle. Clearance is tight about - about one to two thou.

The outer races are an interference fit in the hub and must be installed with a bearing driver.

Duke

**Craig S.** · February 10, 2001, 09:42 PM

Re: It's probably okay

Duke - you are right - I misread and I apologize for conveying bad information. I was refering to the outer race not the slip fit inner race. Again my apologies....Craig

**Craig S.** · February 10, 2001, 09:45 PM

Re: It's probably okay

What confused me is the comment about the inner race spinning on the hub - since it slides over the spindle, the hub is the interference fit to the outer race....Craig

**Chuck S.** · February 10, 2001, 09:47 PM

There Is A Danger Of Confusing Terminology...

Duke,

I believe when Shane is saying "inner" race, he is talking about the large diameter outer race of the INSIDE bearing. As you know, the inner races are integral part of the bearings and can not be REPLACED separately. If either of his outer races can be turned in the hub by hand, I agree with Craig, I think he needs to find a new front rotor.

Chuck Sangerhausen

**Duke W.** · February 10, 2001, 10:24 PM

Good point, Chuck

The original post would make a good riddle, but I think Shane got the correct answer. The inner race on the inboard and outboard bearings should be a slip fit over the spindle. The outer race of the inboard and outboard bearings should be an interference fit in the hub. If not, the hub should be replaced or repaired. Don't know the availability of hubs, but it might be worth checking with a couple of good automotive machine shops to see if it can be repaired. The best way would be to machine out the hub if a bearing with an overside OD outer race is available.

Duke

**Shane Gee** · February 10, 2001, 11:00 PM

Re: Good point, Chuck

Thanks for the information. I apologize for the confusion on my choice of terminology. I was refering to the inboard bearing and the outer race. It's the one that has to be pressed into the hub. It sounds like I need to try and find a larger outside diameter race and then machine the hub or find a different hub. Thanks for the advice.

**Joe L.** · February 11, 2001, 01:56 AM

Re: Front bearing inner race

Shane-----

Actually, I don't think that your original description was confusing at all. You described it as the front HUB inner and outer races, not the front BEARING inner and outer races.

In any event, your next move probably depends upon what year Corvette which you have. If you have a 63-68, those rotor/hub assemblies may be more difficult and expensive to locate. If you have a 69-82, those rotor/hub assemblies should be a lot easier and cheaper to find. For this year range, I think that it would be FAR less expensive and less difficult to simply locate a good, used assembly. Even if the rotor is bad, you can replace that. By the way, the hubs are not and never were available as a seperate part without attached rotor.

As I mentioned, the 63-68 rotor/hub assemblies are more difficult to locate. However, identifying a suitable over-sized bearing race and/or bearing assembly and then having your hub machined to fit will not be an inexpensive or trouble-free process. I think that I'd still be looking for a good used hub, with or without a good used rotor.

I would not, under ANY circumstances, recommend using any Loc-Tite compound or "knurling" or otherwise "upsetting" hub material in an attempt to achieve a tight fit of the race. These are "used car dealer" procedures for repair of such problems. This is an important SAFETY item and I recommend NO COMPROMISE in the repair. Beyond that, spindles are expensive parts and I wouldn't recommend doing anything that might result in the later need to replace one of these, especially if the car is a 63-68.

**Steven Turschmann** · February 11, 2001, 11:53 AM

Re: Front bearing inner race

I believe that the parts that go into the hub for the bearings are called "cups" , the races are part of the bearings. I had the same problem with my 66 ,after locating used hubs that would accept a press fit of the hubs ,I purchased new rotors from napa, it is not a problem that they are not riveted to the hub because the wheel will hold the assy. together. I went one step further and indexed the hubs and rotors to get the best run out, bolted the rotor and hub together with the lug nuts and sent the assy out to get turned. this worked very well for me STEVE T

**Shane Gee** · February 12, 2001, 03:01 PM

Where to find a front hub for a 66?

Thanks for all the great advice. I have a 66 roadster that I am restoring and would like to find a replacement hub. Where is a good place to locate such a part? I saw that Steven had the same problem and purchased some used hubs. Where did you purchase yours? Thank you.

**Steven Turschmann** · February 12, 2001, 06:39 PM

Re: Where to find a front hub for a 66?

I found the hubs at a corvette place in Newhampshire, I will have to look up their name and get back to you.

**Joe L.** · February 13, 2001, 02:23 AM

Re: Where to find a front hub for a 66?

Shane-----

You might try Bair's Corvette of Linesville, PA (www.bairs.com) or Ikerd's Corvette of Bedford, IN.

Front bearing inner race

Front bearing inner race

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