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Gary----
Well, you've just discovered the problem which is causing your "wandering" condition. The symtoms that you describe are CLASSIC symptoms of stub axle end wear. The stub axles are the short axle shaft/yokes which insert into either side of the differential housing. These connect to the half shaft via the inner universal joint.
The stub axle inner end rides against the differential center pin. Both the stub axle ends and the differential pin are hardened to a very high Rockwell hardness to prevent wear. But wear inevitably occurs. The stub axle end always loses the battle with the differential center pin and wears down. When excessively worn, it wears down to the c-clip retaining ring groove and the c-clip falls out creating a significant SAFETY problem.
To further test for this condition you will need to remove the half shafts from the car. Then, grasp the end of each stub axle yoke and attempt to move it in and out. If either move even a slightly perceptible amount, one or both need to be replaced. If they move an 1/8" or so, you've got a REALLY BAD problem and they REALLY NEED TO BE REPLACED. When you have the half shafts out of the car, inspect the u-joints. They could also be causing your problem, but only if they're REAL BAD. Most likely, they be a little bad. That means they'll have to be replaced, too.
Unfortunately, stub axle replacement requires the differential(pumpkin) to be removed from the car. If the stub axles are severely worn, that means that all the metal that ground off is in the fluid and in the bearings. That means rebuild time. One thing leads to another in these things, but who ever said that Corvettes were easy to maintain?
For stub axle replacements, there are a few ways to go. The GM axles, both the heavy duty cap type(GM #3872922) and the u-bolt type(GM #14016436) are discontinued, so that's not an option. Just as well, though. Towards the end of production, the case hardening of these axles was getting pretty bad and they were really short lived pieces.
You can purchase rebuilt, original axles. These axles have a super-hardened "button" installed on the axle end. This is just about wear-proof and will provide long and good service. Very popular service item. These axles cost about $90 each, exchange.
You can also buy new, reproduction axles manufactured by International Axle Manufacturing Company of Minnesota. These are high quality pieces with excellent hardening and machining. They cost about $225.00 each outright.
Un
Well, you've just discovered the problem which is causing your "wandering" condition. The symtoms that you describe are CLASSIC symptoms of stub axle end wear. The stub axles are the short axle shaft/yokes which insert into either side of the differential housing. These connect to the half shaft via the inner universal joint.
The stub axle inner end rides against the differential center pin. Both the stub axle ends and the differential pin are hardened to a very high Rockwell hardness to prevent wear. But wear inevitably occurs. The stub axle end always loses the battle with the differential center pin and wears down. When excessively worn, it wears down to the c-clip retaining ring groove and the c-clip falls out creating a significant SAFETY problem.
To further test for this condition you will need to remove the half shafts from the car. Then, grasp the end of each stub axle yoke and attempt to move it in and out. If either move even a slightly perceptible amount, one or both need to be replaced. If they move an 1/8" or so, you've got a REALLY BAD problem and they REALLY NEED TO BE REPLACED. When you have the half shafts out of the car, inspect the u-joints. They could also be causing your problem, but only if they're REAL BAD. Most likely, they be a little bad. That means they'll have to be replaced, too.
Unfortunately, stub axle replacement requires the differential(pumpkin) to be removed from the car. If the stub axles are severely worn, that means that all the metal that ground off is in the fluid and in the bearings. That means rebuild time. One thing leads to another in these things, but who ever said that Corvettes were easy to maintain?
For stub axle replacements, there are a few ways to go. The GM axles, both the heavy duty cap type(GM #3872922) and the u-bolt type(GM #14016436) are discontinued, so that's not an option. Just as well, though. Towards the end of production, the case hardening of these axles was getting pretty bad and they were really short lived pieces.
You can purchase rebuilt, original axles. These axles have a super-hardened "button" installed on the axle end. This is just about wear-proof and will provide long and good service. Very popular service item. These axles cost about $90 each, exchange.
You can also buy new, reproduction axles manufactured by International Axle Manufacturing Company of Minnesota. These are high quality pieces with excellent hardening and machining. They cost about $225.00 each outright.
Un
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