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My 327/340 was rebuilt about 1400 miles ago and is running strong, all the plugs are uniform and tan in color, no sign of fouling on any. Compression ratios were supposed to have been dropped to about 10:1 when we rebuilt it, valve guides were relined, stainless seats installed, Hypereutectic pistons, all cyclinders resleeved to std. bore, 3736097 cam, etc. In short we tried to restore it to as original as was practical. Just checked the compressions and got in order 168,169,158,161,159,165,174, and 164. I have seemed to use about quart to a quart and a half of 10-30w Castrol during this period( thats based on the add/full dipstick lines representing one quart)Does all this sound nor mal for this engine? Thanks in advance
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Jim Cear -
YES *NM*
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Re: '63 327/340
Your compression is very good. The shop manual only lists 150 psi for the 340/360 engines with the 097 cam; 160 for the 250 and 300.
Your original engine used a forged piston fitted at about .0035" skirt clearance, so theses SHP and FI engines tending to have a bit of oil consumption. When my '63 340 was new it took forever for the chrome rings to seat, and after about 10K miles is settled down to about a quart every 2000 and a quart ever 1500 when I took it down at 115K.
You should have moly rings, which seat quickly and I assume your hypereutectic pistons are fitted a bit tighter. You didn't mention specifics on the valve guides such as clearnace or sealing method, but your consumption sounds okay.
You need some oil to slip past the rings and guides to keep these sliding surfaces properly lubricated. I have a theory that an engine with "too low" oil consumption will not have the longevity of one that is perhaps a bit on the high side when new because the early wear is higher due to less lubrication.
DukeComment
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P.S.
When you next change the oil I'd recommend a 20W-50. If you don't drive you car in subfreezing weather 20-50 will give more film strength margin when running hard and will probably reduce consumption.
DukeComment
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Or 20W-50 Racing oil......
Valvoline, in hotter temps, less viscosity break down.Comment
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Re: Or 20W-50 Racing oil......
George - while I am a believer in Valvoline for mineral based oils, and have used it for years, I am turning into a synthetic oil user these days for film strength and wear prevention. One thing I had heard about racing oils (including valvoline) was they were designed for one glorius day of use and were then removed and dumped, and hence, didn't have the protectants used for normal use oil where an engine thermal cycles and gets condensation buildup and acid etc. Maybe there's no truth to this, but it made sense to me. I think James oil consumption is just fine for a fresh engine with moly rings and 2-3 thousanths piston clearance or so. My 454 pickup with Federal Mogul moly rings with 0.003 on TRW forged slugs ran about 700-800 miles per quart for the first 2-3K miles, then settled in around 5K to a quart in 2000 - 2500 on good ol Valvoline 10W-30 . I have subsequently switched to Mobil 1 10W30 and change it every 3000-4000 miles and the consumption is up to about a quart in 3000. Pretty good for forged slugs from my experience, but they are the tighter fitting TRW's of late, not the loose GM slugs of the 60's....CraigComment
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Synthetic is all I use today.......
only drawback with synthetic, it will find ways to escape that old fossil would never find. Regarding the one shot deal of Racing oils, I can't verify what you say is yea or nea. I did run racing oil in my 68, straight 50w for years in the early and mid 70's without any detrimental affects.Comment
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Racing oil
I used Valvoline 20W-50 for years beginning back in the mid-seventies when I started racing an E-Production TR-3. The basic difference is that it had more "anti-forming" additives, which is beneficial on a high revving engine.
It met the then current API specification for spark ignition engines, which means that it had all the other additives in "regular" motor oil.
There were still a few guys using bean oil back then - Castol R. This was a non detergent vegetable based oil. It smells great when burned, but has little oxidation resistance and no detergent or dispersant additives.
I never did understand why anyone would use that stuff. Like I said, it smelled great as the car drove by, but I'd never put it in any engine I own.
DukeComment
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Re: Synthetic is all I use today.......
sythetic oil is the way to go . I too used to use only Quaker State straight racing oil but if you look inside the engine with sythetic oil it will show very little wear. BIG BLOCK or SMALL BLOCK do your engine right.Comment
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Quaker State Racing Oil?
Wow George, no wonder you like the newer synthetics. Quaker state has the worst reputation in the business for paraffin content. Also, racing oil is void of the additives necessary for longevity on the street. Racing oil is for racing. That's why it's called racing oil.
Don't feel bad. I used to do the same thing until someone told me otherwise. It's the same macho mentality that causes us to go with 850 cfm double pumpers, street fighter transmissions, predator carburetors, etc. Hey, racing oil is at least as good as Split Fire plugs. Right?
Dale.Comment
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So what is so awful about
getting (at least) 100,000 to 150,000 miles out of an engine that lived on nothing but 'regular' oil?
Most engines that require rebuild need it for reasons other than poor lubrication.Comment
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Re: Synthetic is all I use today.......
We have a 3.1 Lumina APV with 170K that is as good as new and has only had Valvoline regular oil since new. Engine has never been opened.Comment
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Re: Quaker State Racing Oil?
I haven't checked lately, Dale, but I used to use Valvoline 20-50 racing oil back in the seventies when I was racing my E-production TR3. It met the then current API standard for spark ignition engines, but had more anti-foaming additive.
Any oil, regardless of what it is called, has all the requisite additives if it meets the current (SH) API standard for spark ignition engines.
DukeComment
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Is 300,000 Miles Enough?
All I ever run in my stuff is 10-40 Castrol. Castrol's been my #1 choice for 40 years. Valvolene is a very close second.
I got over 300,00 miles out of Ole Red on one rebuild when the lobes finally started falling of the cam. When I opened the engine up I found NO gump at all! Just had to use a ridge reamer, very light surfacing on the walls, and the old pistons and rods went back in!
I'm all for high tech improvements in this life BUT I've got enough common sense to leave well enough alone! Castrol 10-40 is HARD to beat on the street!
Dale.Comment
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Oil Is Oil Is Oil.....
There's almost as much hype used to peddle oil as there is for spark plugs - any oil that meets current API standards and is in a brand-name container will do just fine for street use; all the engine cares about is that the oil is reasonably fresh and is CLEAN. Regular changes and fresh filters are all that matters, to stop sludge and acid formation, and to keep the additives fresh. Change it hot and do it often and don't worry about it.Comment
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