68 brake calipers

[Joe L.]

Kevin----

Now I understand your situation. Yes, if you need to expedite the process, using a replacement engine can minimize your down time. If the engine that you are considering is GM #10067353, that would be a good choice for you. Also, $1,375 is a good price for this engine. Understand, though, this is a relatively low performance engine which is a "universal engine" for 1971-85 model Chevrolets and is made in Mexico. It will fit and function perfectly, though. It will also be a good choice for a temporary engine. However, if you go this route, you are going to be facing two engine "exchanges"; one now and the other when you put the original engine back in.

One other possible candidate for an "interim" engine would be the GM high performance 350, GM #12486041. This is a US made 350 of 330 hp and uses the Vortec cylinder heads. This engine is a real bargain at about $2,000. However, the one draw-back is the fact that you have to use a Vortec-compatible intake manifold, GM #12366573. You'd also need to check to insure that this manifold would fit under your hood, although I am fairly sure that it will. This manifold can be purchased for about $250.00. With this engine installed in your car, you might find that you'd be in no rush to get the original one back in.

Another choice, although much more expensive, would be the ZZ-4 special high performance 350,GM #24502609. This engine would accept all of your original peripheral components, including intake manifold and produces 355hp. These can be purchased for about $3,300. Perhaps a little high for an "interim" engine.

[Jeff Conner]

68 brake calipers

My 68 had been sitting in various stages of restoration (mostly just resting) for over 10 years when I bought it. The calipers appeared to have been redone sometime over the years but the mastercylinder was dry and it basically didn't have any brake. I've got the car totally disassembled and just took the calipers apart. It appears that they were bored and stainless sleeves installed. However, the pistons(appear to be some type of aluminum alloy) are corroded and the area just behind the dust seals were filled with some type of pasty material(probably the reminants of the brake fluid). The stainless sleeves are in good shape and will pass with just a good cleanup. My question is this. Are theses sleeves of a standard size and will off the shelve pistons and seals fit?? How can I indentify who did the boring and sleeving?? Most of my pistons are fine and just need new seals but I've got a couple that are pitted and probably need replaced. Also, what casting #'s should be on my calipers for a 68??

[Joe L.]

Re: 68 brake calipers

Jeff-----

All of the caliper rebuilders use sleeves which are of standard internal bore size, so that stock-type pistons will work. In fact, as far as I know, no oversize pistons are available. You should be able to clean these piston bores up without too much difficulty. BrakeClean may be all that you need, but don't use anything more aggressive than crocus cloth. Even that I would not recommend using too aggressively.

As far as the pistons go, examine them carefully. All GM pistons and virtually all replacement pistons are made of aluminum material which is anodized. When you check them carefully, look at the surface of the pistons just behind the seals. This is where the most wear occurs. If the anodize is worn through at this point, the pistons should be replaced. Most often, you will find the anodize worn through.

Your caliper casting numbers should be as follows:

front-outer----5452273

front-inner----5452270

rear-outer-----5452284

rear inner-----5452281

The above are CASTING numbers only, NOT part numbers. Some of these castings are machined differently for the particular position in which they are used.

As far as who sleeved them, many caliper rebuilders will stamp the caliper casting with their "identifying mark". The problem is identifying the "identifying mark". Some, like Vette Brakes, use their easily recognizable logo. Others use more obscure identifiers. In any event, check the caliper castings over carefully for "non-factory" stamped marks. Most, if not all, of the factory marks are cast into the caliper halves and not stamped.

[Jeff Conner]

Re: 68 brake calipers

Joe; Checked my casting #'s and came up with the following; Rear inner 5473806, rear outer 5473807, front outer 5473796, front inner 5473795 & 5465954 (the inners don't match on the front). Where did these come from and will they be serviceable on my 68?? Don't know of any reason they would not work but brakes are one thing you don't want to screw up!! Thanks!

[Joe L.]

Re: 68 brake calipers

Jeff-----

These sound like later castings and probably found your way on the car via an exchange when the stainless steel lined calipers were originally installed. VERY FEW folks ever had their own calipers sleeved (I'm an exception) and simply purchased stainless steel sleeved calipers on an exchange basis. So, they ended up with whatever calipers were used for cores to produce their "new" stainless steel calipers.

All of the 1965-82 calipers will interchange between model years, although there were several different series of castings. The original 65-66 "first design" calipers are usually internally modified by rebuilders to the "second design" configuration, but will interchange whether or not they are so-modified.

1965 to about 1973 caliper castings are nodular iron; later castings, both SERVICE and PRODUCTION, are gray iron.