Can the spindle be removed from the torque arm with a wheel puller? There's a special tool, but it seems from the pictures and description that it's just pressed in. Also, does the spindle need to be reinstalled by someone with the gauge that measures play in the bearings? Thanks.
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm
Bill-----
Usually, a traditional "wheel puller" will not be able to remove the spindles. I can virtually guarantee you that such a tool won't work for spindles that have been long-installed (e.g. if they've never been previously removed for servicing). In the latter case, you'll have a difficult time removing them even if you have the special press tool designed for this operation.
For removal of the spindles you have several options:
1) [on car] Try using a "spindle knocker". This is a very inexpensive tool which threads onto the spindle threads and seats on the spindle splined shoulder. Using this to cover and protect the threads, you can pound away with a large hammer. The problem is that to do this effectively, you really need to have the strut rods in place to support the trailing arm from deflection and make the hammer blows effective. Unfortunately, with the strut rods attached, you can't swing the hammer with much force. If the spindles are "easy", you'll be able to get them out using the "spindle knocker", though. If they're not (which is more likley), you'll just be wasting your time. But, it's worth a shot; the tool is cheap;
2) [on car] Obtain "by hook-or-by-crook" the pressing tool designed for this operation. INSTALLED PROPERLY, it will remove MOST spindles without damaging other parts. Installed improperly, it will be ineffective and/or it will result in breakage of the caliper support bracket;
3) Remove the trailing arms from the car. Jig them up PROPERLY in an hydraulic press and press out the spindles. PROPERLY SUPPORTED, this method will ALWAYS work to remove the spindles without damage to anything else;
4) Remove the trailing arms from the car and send them out to a professional with EXPERIENCE in this area to have them completely rebuilt.
In answer to you last question, if you get the thing disassembled and replace the bearings upon reassembly (as I would ALWAYS do), then the bearing end-play needs to be checked and properly set. To do this, you need one of the following:
1) a set-up tool which can be purchased (for about $100);
2) an old spindle which has been turned down slightly on a lathe (sanding the bearing surfaces of one with 600 grit sandpaper will usually reduce the OD enough to be usuable as a set-up tool);
3) a homemade tool made up with a large OD bolt, washers, "etc".
Final note: even with the proper bearing set-up tool, it rquires some experience in performing the end-play measurement to get it right.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 1969 Trailing Arm
The 69 corvette used bearings that had very close tolerances on the rear spindle. So did some of the other years as well. But, the result is that the rear spindles are hard to get out without using a press of some sort. Yes, the rear bearings are pre-load before final installation. This is done with a spindle like tool that allows the bearings to be installed in the trailing arm without the actual spindle. Some people make this tool out of an old spindle and just trim it down a bit so the bearings will slide on and off easily. You assemble the bearings with a shim pack in the trailing arm and then measure the clearances. I believe you should do this with the bearings clean and lightly oiled. Before the final installation, clean them with solvent, blow dry (don't spin them), pack with high quality wheel bearing grease and do the final install. Kinda fun if you have the time and the right tools. I believe the clearances were 1 to 6 thousands (not certain though). Clearance is important because it can translate into increased run out on the brake disk. You will need a dial indicator to measure the preload on the bearing. I also believe it is more accurately done with the trailing arm out of the car and on a press of some type. Once you get the right clearance, you install everything with the correct spindle in the trailing arm and the clearances should be the same as with the tool. People will many times pull the trailing arms and just send them off to Blairs(?) and have them rebuilt by them. They do a very nice job. Later, TerryComment
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm - Yes and No
The first one I did many years ago was with a Snap On slide hammer wheel puller. I ended up adding another 5 pounds of weight to the slide and still it was over 8 hours later before it came out. I would pull until my hands hurt too much, rest awhile, and then pull until they hurt again. I wouldn't recommend this method.
I just got done doing this a few weeks ago using the press assembly bolted to the arm. One twist is that I also use the slider puller. I put on pressure with the press, then hit it with the slide hammer a few times, then twist a bit tighter on the press again. This prevents craziness of trying too hard to press it out and breaking something and avoids the issue of pounding on the end of the spindle.
The Spindle Knockers still inflict damage. You are compressing threads and the end of the spindle. You may not be peening it like bubba, but you are still putting the wrong stresses on it. If you don't hit it sqare, you bend the end, which will load the flange wrong when the nut is torqued down. If you do hit it square, you are compressing the metal if the Knocker is tight against the shaft shoulder and compressing the threads if you don't have it tight.
And regardless of damage, simply hitting the spindle is very ineffective since the rubber bushings in the strut rods absorb a lot of the energy you produce. Rubber is a spring.
Your case screams for joining a local Corvette club. It would be a sad club that didn't have at least one member who has the spindle press at home, and would lend it to you or even help you remove the spindle.
Post where you live. There may be someone here who lives close and has the press who would help or loan it to you.Comment
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm
I won't re-hash what's already been posted, as it's all great advice.
I'll just re-affirm that it can be a bear of a job!
Just look at what you have to do, beat or pry components apart and THEN, finness press fit components back together to .009 or less tollerences.
Daunting but not impossible.
If you have the mechanical depth, resourses and patience Bill, you can pull it off.
I tried to force a spindle out of my 69 with a three jaw puller with the jaws reversed and placed against the inner lip of the trailing arm. When I was finished, I had three nice squashed out marks on the trailing arm and still hadn't moved the spindle an inch!
Bottom line, cobbing up puller tools can cost you more than if you just went out and purchased the right tool to begin with.
Good luck with your project,
Chuck 32205Comment
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm
Thanks to everyone. I think I may have a line on the tools. I plan to have this car for a while and I'm willing to invest a couple of hundred dollars for the ability to repack the rear bearings every year. I've given up on trying to do it without the right tools though.Comment
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