C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

[Gerard F.]

Sometime time ago, I posted a message about uneven spacing of the my left front wheel in the well on my 67, and a rub to the body after I put new tires on. The left front seems to be too far forward in the well, and rubs to the body extension in the well on a sharp right turn.

I have looked into the suspension for damage and have found now, however I did find that there seems to be an excessive number of shims in the upper arm support. On the left side, I have about 5/8" of shims on the front bolt and 3/8" on the rear bolt. On the right side(the good wheel), I have no shims on the front bolt, and one 1/8" on the rear.

My question is: Does caster on the wheel, change the forward or aft position of the wheel in the wheel well, and could too much caster (or camber)cause the wheel rub described above?

Jerry Fuccillo

[Duke W.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

Not by enough to create an obviously visual difference.

Duke

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

Gerard,

Your problem is caused by the same problem most Corvettes have. The body is on the frame crooked.

Most of the Vettes are placed on the frame a little crooked and usually is noted by one tire being a little close to the lip of the wheel well.

Nothing to be alarmed about cause it just like several thousand others.

Regards,

JR

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

I have learned that the corvette body was anything but symetrical from one side of the car to the other and like the other person said, it can be on the frame in the wrong position.

I would take a tape measure and start taking measurements. I would look under the rocker panels and measure the distance between the frame rail and rocker panel on one side of the car and the same on the other side of the car. They should be about the same front to back. On my 68 and I assume on other cars, there were holes under the sill plates that corresponded to holes in the frame rails. They can be used to indicate if the body is sitting too far forward or back on the frame. If the body of the car is sitting on there badly, it may be enough to cause your problem. Also measure the distances from the wheel well openings to the door. You might find that they are totally different from one side of the car to the other. So, it could be a combination of things. I would measure the edge of the fender skirt to the wheel well opening. Compare that to the other side. They can be drasticly off. Look for signs that someone did some major replacements of body parts. Who knows?

If the body mount bolts are in good shape, it may not be too tough a fix. Once they are loose and the bumpers are off with the bumper brackets pulled back you can slide the body around fairly easy.

I wouldn't want to do this to a nice car though. Can be done with care though. My car was the same way and I fix it by sliding it to a neutral position. Mine was all the way back and all the way to one side. Real hassle to work on certain aspects of the trailing arms. But I am at the end of a restoration and I don't have paint on it yet. Once you get to know your car, you will be able to decide the best position on the frame to clear everything without being too far from the center of the frame. Hope this makes sence. Good luck, Terry

[Timothy B.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

Terry, are you saying that there is that much "play" in the body mount attachments that you can slide the whole body around and recenter it? I thought the body would only fit in one position. How much realistic play are you talking about?

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

I have not measured it but it is pretty considerable. The body bolts screw into caged nuts that can slide around quite a bit. I would say you can move it an inch total distance, maybe a tad more. That can be a lot when it comes to correctly alligning the bumper braces from the underside of the body. Some of my braces wouldn't even come close to alligning correctly at all. The rear of my car was a total stretch for the brackets to reach and the front was way too close. The car was all the way to one side also. My car was built on friday the 13th. Ha! In any case, you can improve things by moving it around a bit. My car seems to want to be center and forward a bit for the ideal position. That is totally different than the position it I found it in. The body has never been off the frame. I have to loosen the gas tank straps and recenter the gas tank under the opening now. It is very obveous when you open the gas lid that something is up.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

Terry,

I think you hit my problem right on the head. I went through the measurements you recommended and I found the following:

1. The body is shifted a full 1/2" to the left side. The difference between the rocker panel to frame measurement under the door between left and right is 1/2".
2. There is a counterclockwise rotation of the body over the frame which I think is quite substantial, 1/8" to 3/16" in 38" (again from the rocker panel to frame measurement).

This is amazing, I've owned this 67 for 36 years, and I think it came out of the factory this way. I've never had any substantial damage or work done on it.
I remember that I had the same rub in the left front with the 29 year old Michelins (195R15) I just replaced.

One question- What brute force method did you used to slide the body into a mean position? Did you have to lift the body at all?

I kind of think that this may be a too complicated project for me as a weekend hobbyist mechanic, especially after taking a look at my compressed body mount cushions. I think I'm going to get a full body mount kit and take it to a shop.

Thanks for your advice, you made my day.

Jerry Fuccillo
Sonora, CA

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

It is a TLC type job. If your car is nice and has nice paint on it you must proceed carefully. If you are big into originallity, you might leave the car as it is and try smaller tires.

Look at the body mount bolts very carefully and the frame. If there is considerable rust or scale, I would be very careful evaluating how to procede. If the bolts are rusted half way through, I wouldn't touch them. I would try to leave well enough alone. If the car has been in a nice climate, they will probably be fine. I don't want you to end up hurting your car in any way by twisting off a body mount bolt, etc. Simple project can turn into a nightmare.

That said, once all the bolts are out that hold the bodythe body to the frame you will need to break it free at each mount location. Pry something into the mounts to lift them. Remember, the bumbers need to come off also and the bumper brakets pulled away before attempting to break the body loose. Then you should be able to slide it around. The radiator frame will have to be unbolted at the underside also. I can slide mine around by bumping the area in front of the doors and just behind the door jam. I also have good luck sticking a rod into the alignment holes under the sill plates and into the frame. I slide it back and forth as needed. You don't want to push on the body and crack the paint. Car is somewhat vulnerable with bumpers and bumper supports out. I have been able to use a padded pry bar between the body cage rails and the frame located under the door sills. Make sure you want to do this before proceeding. Good luck, Terry

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 Wheel Caster and Alignment

Duke,

Did you have to do anything with the steering column, clutch, gas tank connections or any other things that connect between the frame and body, or go through the firewall.

Jerry