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How difficult is it to remove the stainless trim arouund the edge of a 72 T-top for painting purposes? Do people remove this trim for painting, or just mask it off?
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Ed I have only painted one C3 coupe, my 70. I did not remove the crimped on trim to paint the t-tops. The repaint turned out pretty good, still looks good after 13 years. -
Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Ed, the side trim is screwed on and I don't remember any particular difficulty getting it off. However, this is from the perspective of complete disassebly, and removing the trim was pretty much the last step.
The front trim can be removed, but you have to be very careful to keep from buckling the trim. Start at one end and gently pull the trim away from the fiberglass, while working your way down the edge as it comes off. Keep the point where you are pulling on the trim close to where it's attached to the fiberglass, rather than getting too far out on the unsupported length. The trim fits to the front edge very tightly using a rubber strip seal on the inside lower edge to maintain an interference fit. Once the rubber strip fails, I suppose the trim will not stay on unless you glue it on. The rubber strip may also serve a sealing purpose. Better be very careful; I don't think that part is repro'ed and it is hard to find used...unless you want to buy the whole T-top.Comment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
I attempted to remove the trim. It was a disaster waiting to happen. A very careful masking job resulted in a perfectly painted T-Top with the trim on.
My recomendation... don't remove unless absolutely required.Comment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Lee, the problem of masking the trim is that it is physically impossible to get the SAME sharp break between the trim and the paint line, as you would if the T-top were painted before the trim is installed. There is no doubt in my mind that if you take your car to a professional painter, the trim will be masked and not removed.
Now, I am talking about extreme, NCRS, anal retentive close-up examination, not the 5 foot view. When the trim is masked, paint will either dam up or pile up against the thickness of the trim (maybe only 0.020" or o.032"), or alternately you get holidays (extremely small) on the fiberglass due to the masking tape going ever so slightly past the trim.
A perfect masking of the trim will require a human being to cover the trim and the thickness of the trim, but not allow the tape to get down onto the fiberglass even thousandths of an inch. Anyone that's ever worked with masking tape knows that even if you are successful in masking perfectly as described above, paint will either leak under the tape or adhere to the tape such that a holiday is created when the tape is removed. GRRRRRRR!!
It's a dilemma for the perfectionist...make it perfect and run the risk of destroying the trim in the process, or compromise and leave well enough alone. I expect perfectionism was what motivated Ed's question. Been there and done thatComment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops - More Details
Ed, after thinking about it further, it seems like I started at the trim end at the center split line. You will have to be even more careful as you approach the rounded corner...this will be the area of highest risk for buckling the trim.
At the split line end, gently pull the trim to lift it away from the fibergalss edge enough to insert a SMALL ROUND punch (1/16"-3/32") between the trim and the fiberglass, then gently pry the end of the trim DIRECTLY away from the EDGE of the fiberglass ONLY in a direction parallel to the top/bottom surface edges of the trim (Trim has a "U" cross-section; you'll be prying on the bottom of the "U" to drag it straight off.).
Once you have the end off the fiberglass, you can then try pinching the trim/fiberglass between your thumb and forefinger where the trim just meets the fiberglass, and "roll" or turn your hand/fingers in a fashion to push the trim off. Gentle pulling will be faster and more effective, but dangerous. Work slowly down the trim until you get to the rounded corner, then go dead-slow until the trim end comes off.
BTW, the side trim and the joint cover clip comes off BEFORE the front trim. The front trim is the last thing to come off. You can see that removing the trim is not easy, and is highly risky, but the end result will be perfect as close as anybody can see.Comment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Chuck
I don't disagree with your logic at all. If the trim comes off without damage, that is the way to go.
However, it is possible to mask perfectly and flow paint just under the edge in a manner that satisfies very close scrutiny. I have not painted any cars in quite a few years. But, as a young man I did paint work in a body shop that specialized in very custom work. These cars frequently competed in many custom car shows and a few into magazine features. Most of this was back in the days of acrylic lacquer.
I can still do this today and have done it on the T-Top of my own car. Its time consuming. The secret is to not try and cover the entire molding at one shot. Using the blue painters masking tape just get close (1/8") on the first pass. Next, add additional layers while carefully t******* with a small very sharp utility knife... the kind with the break-off sections from the hardware store. Use the smallest size and break off the tip frequently to keep it extremely sharp.
When ready for paint, flash the masked trim area with a thinner mixture of the base coat. An air-brush works great here. Finish painting the balance of the panel normally using a paint stroke that sprays over, not into the masked edge. Apply clear coat (if used) in the same manner.
When finished, you need to be just as careful unmasking. Don't just tear the masking tape off. Go back to the utility knife and carefully slice the masked area between the trim and the painted panel. This is like doing surgery. Be carefull and take your time. It will work.
Perfectionist? Yep! Anal retentive? Yep! Would I do an entire car this way? Hell no. If I was still doing it this way to pay the mortage, I'd be broke.
But, for 1 or 2 T-Tops and save the trim, it was worth it.Comment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Lee, thanks for taking the time to type out some good tips that will undoubtably help others. Knowing my own painting skills and experience, and thinking I was pretty high up on the "mere mortal" scale as a painter, I removed my trim years ago. Ed can now make an informed decision.Comment
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Re: Painting 72 T-tops
Ed:
When I repainted two of my shark coupes, a '70 & '71, I did not remove the t-top trim.
However, on another '71 coupe, I took off with out latching drivers side top, needless to say I damaged the stainless trim big time. I removed the trim, be very careful not to distort or buckle it. The front piece is crimped on, the side piece and joint piece are screwed on, as well as 4 rivets being used. Drilling the rivet head off, is not difficult, but a portion of the rivet then is still inside the top, in a cavity, and may rattle around.Comment
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