C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

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  • Dan Pepper

    C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

    In an effort to "tighten-up" the driving charictaristics of my '66 BB coupe, I have recently purchased a set of Pirelli P4000's and a new set of Delco replacement shocks. I'm sure upgrading from an "S" rated tire to a performance tire will make a big difference, but I'm wondering if I should think about replacing bushings too.

    The car has 53k original miles on it, and apart from showing some drying and cracking on the edges, the bushings look okay and the ride over train tracks, bumps, etc, is firm - apart from the sloppy tires and spongy Gabrial shocks that is.

    Should replacing the bushings be a priority? If yes, where can I find the best "kit" for the money? If this is recommended, I would like to do the job myself - but not sure how complicated it is. Any advice?
  • Jack H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1990
    • 9906

    #2
    Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

    Suspension components age and wear in subtile fashion. Most who've driven their cars before doing a frame-off, then driving after a full set of fresh suspension components are installed are generally impressed with the car's handling characteristics afterward!

    Knowing when to do what can only be assess by one with familiarity & skill in Corvette suspension as a result of visual inspection and test driving. It's almost impossible to give you solid advice on your car without seeing and 'feeling' it....

    As far as replacing key suspension components like ball joints go, it's a reasonably major job. You have to support the suspension, drill out the factory original, riveted one, ball joints and replace them. ALL of the service replacement ball joints were intended to be bolted vs. riveted to the A-frames and that's a tell tale in factory concours judging.

    To do the job right from the standpoint of a zero-deduction overhaul, you have to find factory original ball joints (not easy/nor inexpensive), then totally disassemble the front A-arms and find a resource to remove and re-rivet the replacements in. In general, this is an expensive and time consuming proposition....

    Comment

    • Jack H.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 1, 1990
      • 9906

      #3
      Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

      Suspension components age and wear in subtile fashion. Most who've driven their cars before doing a frame-off, then driving after a full set of fresh suspension components are installed are generally impressed with the car's handling characteristics afterward!

      Knowing when to do what can only be assess by one with familiarity & skill in Corvette suspension as a result of visual inspection and test driving. It's almost impossible to give you solid advice on your car without seeing and 'feeling' it....

      As far as replacing key suspension components like ball joints go, it's a reasonably major job. You have to support the suspension, drill out the factory original, riveted one, ball joints and replace them. ALL of the service replacement ball joints were intended to be bolted vs. riveted to the A-frames and that's a tell tale in factory concours judging.

      To do the job right from the standpoint of a zero-deduction overhaul, you have to find factory original ball joints (not easy/nor inexpensive), then totally disassemble the front A-arms and find a resource to remove and re-rivet the replacements in. In general, this is an expensive and time consuming proposition....

      Comment

      • Mike Cobine

        #4
        Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

        Jack has pretty well hit on all you need. Ball joints can be done by the average guy in his driveway, but they won't look factory. And he needs a fair set of tools, not a Cresent wrench, pliers, and a hammer.

        It also allows the spring to be possible to get loose. There are precautions to be taken, and some figure it is too much risk, yet others figure it is still safer than driving to work each day.

        The bushings are also in the realm of most home hobbyists, but don't beat them out with a hammer and beat them back in. A hammer is a quick way to get the front to never align right. The best way is a press. A heavy duty 2 arm gear puller can work. Often you can run the arms to the parts store you bought the bushings to get them pressed in.

        With all of these little complications, many prefer to remove the upper and lower arms, ship them off to one of many restorers who install factory ball joints with rivets and press in new bushings.

        It all boils down to what you want to do with the car and how much experience/confidence you have. If judging is the goal, then prepare to ship them off. If not, grab a service manual, a friend, and enjoy the weekend.

        Comment

        • Mike Cobine

          #5
          Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

          Jack has pretty well hit on all you need. Ball joints can be done by the average guy in his driveway, but they won't look factory. And he needs a fair set of tools, not a Cresent wrench, pliers, and a hammer.

          It also allows the spring to be possible to get loose. There are precautions to be taken, and some figure it is too much risk, yet others figure it is still safer than driving to work each day.

          The bushings are also in the realm of most home hobbyists, but don't beat them out with a hammer and beat them back in. A hammer is a quick way to get the front to never align right. The best way is a press. A heavy duty 2 arm gear puller can work. Often you can run the arms to the parts store you bought the bushings to get them pressed in.

          With all of these little complications, many prefer to remove the upper and lower arms, ship them off to one of many restorers who install factory ball joints with rivets and press in new bushings.

          It all boils down to what you want to do with the car and how much experience/confidence you have. If judging is the goal, then prepare to ship them off. If not, grab a service manual, a friend, and enjoy the weekend.

          Comment

          • Gerard F.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 30, 2004
            • 3803

            #6
            Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

            Dan,
            I think I'm doing what you are intending to do. I recently put on new redline radials on my 67/327 (56K)and I had some clearance problems in the front. The tire shop noted that most of my bushings were shot and that original front springs should probably be replaced.
            So, I thought that after owning this car for 36 years, I'd do it right. I went and bought from Ecklers, a grand touring suspension kit (front and rear springs, shocks, stabilizer bars), a polyurethane total suspension kit(supposedly all the bushings needed) and a 1" spacer for the front coil springs (the grand touring springs are shorter and I was concerned with ride height and tire clearance). Cost was in order of $800.
            I arranged with tire/alignment shop to put the kits on for me, and I'm glad I did. I'm a good weekend part replacement guy, but if you saw what they had to take off and put back on, and then realign, I think you'd take it to a shop too. This is a major project and it's not over yet.

            The one screw up was assuming the total suspension kit was total. When they got to the rear trailing arm bushing, we found that it wasn't included in the kit. I then had to order that bushing kit in, and with a stainless steel trailing arm alignment kit. I'm into it about a grand and I'm still waiting for the trailing arm bushing kit. The car will have been up on a rack in a shop for two weeks when they finish it next week.

            Also if I were to do this again I'd change every suspension bolt, and perhaps have a shop take a good look at everything to see what needs else to be replaced.

            I'll let you know how it rides when I get it back next week. Incidentally, my tire rub problem was unrelated to the suspension. Someone had backed into my bumper and bent the bumper brace. This put a constant backward stress on the body at the wheel well. I changed the brace myself and it moved the wheel well forward about 3/8". Can't beleive how flexible fiberglass is.

            Jerry Fuccillo
            They found a lot of rusted bolts in mine.
            Jerry Fuccillo
            1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

            Comment

            • Gerard F.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 30, 2004
              • 3803

              #7
              Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

              Dan,
              I think I'm doing what you are intending to do. I recently put on new redline radials on my 67/327 (56K)and I had some clearance problems in the front. The tire shop noted that most of my bushings were shot and that original front springs should probably be replaced.
              So, I thought that after owning this car for 36 years, I'd do it right. I went and bought from Ecklers, a grand touring suspension kit (front and rear springs, shocks, stabilizer bars), a polyurethane total suspension kit(supposedly all the bushings needed) and a 1" spacer for the front coil springs (the grand touring springs are shorter and I was concerned with ride height and tire clearance). Cost was in order of $800.
              I arranged with tire/alignment shop to put the kits on for me, and I'm glad I did. I'm a good weekend part replacement guy, but if you saw what they had to take off and put back on, and then realign, I think you'd take it to a shop too. This is a major project and it's not over yet.

              The one screw up was assuming the total suspension kit was total. When they got to the rear trailing arm bushing, we found that it wasn't included in the kit. I then had to order that bushing kit in, and with a stainless steel trailing arm alignment kit. I'm into it about a grand and I'm still waiting for the trailing arm bushing kit. The car will have been up on a rack in a shop for two weeks when they finish it next week.

              Also if I were to do this again I'd change every suspension bolt, and perhaps have a shop take a good look at everything to see what needs else to be replaced.

              I'll let you know how it rides when I get it back next week. Incidentally, my tire rub problem was unrelated to the suspension. Someone had backed into my bumper and bent the bumper brace. This put a constant backward stress on the body at the wheel well. I changed the brace myself and it moved the wheel well forward about 3/8". Can't beleive how flexible fiberglass is.

              Jerry Fuccillo
              They found a lot of rusted bolts in mine.
              Jerry Fuccillo
              1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

              Comment

              • Mike S.
                Expired
                • September 30, 1999
                • 91

                #8
                Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

                Since you've upgraded to modern radials, I'm going to assume your major interest is driving v. having your car NCRS judged. Accordingly, here is my suggestion:

                Call Van Steel (http://www.vansteel.com) and order their $20 suspension video/DVD. It will explain in detail how to perform this work. If you don't already have them, purchase the 1966 assembly manual and the 4th edition NCRS 1966 technical/judging guide.

                Remove your A-arms and send them to Van Steel. They will install new bushings and riveted ball joints, and refinish the arms for $400. Let them know if you do plan to participate in judging and they will process the arms accordingly. As noted in the earlier posts, replacement parts can often be identified as such and subject to appropriate point deductions. On the other hand, if function and a "generally correct" appearance is your objective, I think you'll be more than satisfied.

                I just did this on my '66 BB and it was not difficult. This was the first front end work I had done on any vehicle and I had no significant problems. If you take your time, refer to the Van Steel video and the manuals, and consult as necessary with the knowledgeable and most generous members of this forum, you'll do just fine.

                Good luck with the project!

                Comment

                • Mike S.
                  Expired
                  • September 30, 1999
                  • 91

                  #9
                  Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

                  Since you've upgraded to modern radials, I'm going to assume your major interest is driving v. having your car NCRS judged. Accordingly, here is my suggestion:

                  Call Van Steel (http://www.vansteel.com) and order their $20 suspension video/DVD. It will explain in detail how to perform this work. If you don't already have them, purchase the 1966 assembly manual and the 4th edition NCRS 1966 technical/judging guide.

                  Remove your A-arms and send them to Van Steel. They will install new bushings and riveted ball joints, and refinish the arms for $400. Let them know if you do plan to participate in judging and they will process the arms accordingly. As noted in the earlier posts, replacement parts can often be identified as such and subject to appropriate point deductions. On the other hand, if function and a "generally correct" appearance is your objective, I think you'll be more than satisfied.

                  I just did this on my '66 BB and it was not difficult. This was the first front end work I had done on any vehicle and I had no significant problems. If you take your time, refer to the Van Steel video and the manuals, and consult as necessary with the knowledgeable and most generous members of this forum, you'll do just fine.

                  Good luck with the project!

                  Comment

                  • Duke W.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • January 1, 1993
                    • 15610

                    #10
                    Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

                    With only 53K miles the bushings are likely okay. Cracking around the edges of the visible rubber is normal. What counts is the condition the bushing interior.

                    This can be checked by getting the car in the air and prying on the suspension components near the bushings to see if there is excessive movement.

                    I would suggest you have the alignment checked and corrected as necessary with the new tires and then observe the driving characteristics before you take any further action.

                    Duke

                    Comment

                    • Duke W.
                      Beyond Control Poster
                      • January 1, 1993
                      • 15610

                      #11
                      Re: C2: Bushing / Supension Freshen-up

                      With only 53K miles the bushings are likely okay. Cracking around the edges of the visible rubber is normal. What counts is the condition the bushing interior.

                      This can be checked by getting the car in the air and prying on the suspension components near the bushings to see if there is excessive movement.

                      I would suggest you have the alignment checked and corrected as necessary with the new tires and then observe the driving characteristics before you take any further action.

                      Duke

                      Comment

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