C2 Body Dolly Questions

[James W.]

Hello,

Myself and members of the newly formed NCRS Nebraska Chapter will be removing the body from a '65 convertible this afternoon. We have everything ready and have a wooden body dolly built per Noland Adams instructions. In the instructions it says to radius the top corners of the wooden dolly gussetts. Is this a requirement? If so, why?

Also we want to be able to move body to anothe location using my open trailer. How do you go about securing te body to the dolly? Can you simply drill holes into the dolly at the body frame mount locations and large self tapping wood screw to secure it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best Regards,

James West and the NCRS Nebraska Chapter Members

[Mike Cobine]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

You have to look and see if the gussets hit some place on the body that doesn't have the clearance you need.

As to securing the body, you need to secure the BODY. I'd put a couple of straps on the dolly somewhere just to keep it secure from moving, but I would definitely have straps to the body to hold it. I would NOT strap to the outer ends, as they have no real support. I think you could feed large eyebolts through the two firewall body mounts and the two kickup mounts (in front of rear wheel opening) with the eye down and then tie from them to the trailer.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

You have to look and see if the gussets hit some place on the body that doesn't have the clearance you need.

As to securing the body, you need to secure the BODY. I'd put a couple of straps on the dolly somewhere just to keep it secure from moving, but I would definitely have straps to the body to hold it. I would NOT strap to the outer ends, as they have no real support. I think you could feed large eyebolts through the two firewall body mounts and the two kickup mounts (in front of rear wheel opening) with the eye down and then tie from them to the trailer.

[John H.]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

I've always used 3/8" hex head lag bolts and flat washers into 1/4" drilled holes in the top of the four uprights at the #1 and #4 body mount locations to secure the body to the dolly, and I add angled supports from the lower front crosspiece on the dolly to the rad support mounts and bolt them too. Ties the body down solid to the dolly, and my painter then straps the dolly down on his trailer.

[John H.]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

I've always used 3/8" hex head lag bolts and flat washers into 1/4" drilled holes in the top of the four uprights at the #1 and #4 body mount locations to secure the body to the dolly, and I add angled supports from the lower front crosspiece on the dolly to the rad support mounts and bolt them too. Ties the body down solid to the dolly, and my painter then straps the dolly down on his trailer.

[Robert V.]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

I used the dolly setup in Noland's book and it worked to a "T". I never did have to strap the body down on the dolly, it sat perfectly. Depending on how far you have to go, strap the body down accordingly. I used two straps, one on the front and one on the back. After the painting, only one was used and very carefull and slow driving, about 1 mile, and then back on the dolly.

[Robert V.]

Re: C2 Body Dolly Questions

I used the dolly setup in Noland's book and it worked to a "T". I never did have to strap the body down on the dolly, it sat perfectly. Depending on how far you have to go, strap the body down accordingly. I used two straps, one on the front and one on the back. After the painting, only one was used and very carefull and slow driving, about 1 mile, and then back on the dolly.