Generator ID tag

[dale edlund]

I purchased a generator tag for my 1960, however I do not know how to install the rivets. Can some one please tell me how to properly install them so they will not fall off. What size hole to drill, how to hammer them in, etc. Thank you in advance.

Dale Edlund

[Mike M.]

Re: Generator ID tag

the case would have been drilled for the rivets(th e nail portion of the rivets are probably still imbedded in the case if someone chiseled the tag and rivet ppreviously. mike

[Mike M.]

Re: Generator ID tag

the case would have been drilled for the rivets(th e nail portion of the rivets are probably still imbedded in the case if someone chiseled the tag and rivet ppreviously. mike

[Jack H.]

Add-on...

if, as Mike suspects, the holes in your case are 'plugged' with the prior ID tag mounting rivets that have been cut, you need to exercise a degree of care in removing them. Directly below the holes, inside the case, is the generator's field winding assy. This wires in the field winding are insulated with a shellac coating and then covered with a form of burlap.

If you try to drill out the existing rivets WITHOUT fully disassemblying the generator and removing the field windings that mount to the ID of the case by way of external screws (you'll see them on the outside circumference of the case), the odds are REAL GOOD, you'll wind up puncturing the insulation on your field winding assy and all (*&& can break loose as a consequence.

Originally, the case was pre-drilled and painted prior to generator assy at Delco Remy. They installed the field windings, the armature, brushes and the end caps and installed the ID tag after the generator was tested. The pre-drilled holes were sized to make an interference fit with the knurled shank of the mounting rivets. So, they were simply 'tapped' home and remained in place.

When removing existing rivets, you may find the existing holes become 'wallowed out' and don't make a good interference fit to hold the replacement rivets supplied with your reproduction ID tag. If so, you'll have to become a little cleaver using a THIN SHORT piece of shim material and/or an adhesive like JB Weld to hold the rivets + tag in place.

Remember, the rivets had a CONTROLLED LENGTH so they couldn't extend inside the case past the ID of the inner wall and pierce/rub the field winding assy and short it out. Be careful using any substitute rivets that aren't rated for this application!

[Jack H.]

Add-on...

if, as Mike suspects, the holes in your case are 'plugged' with the prior ID tag mounting rivets that have been cut, you need to exercise a degree of care in removing them. Directly below the holes, inside the case, is the generator's field winding assy. This wires in the field winding are insulated with a shellac coating and then covered with a form of burlap.

If you try to drill out the existing rivets WITHOUT fully disassemblying the generator and removing the field windings that mount to the ID of the case by way of external screws (you'll see them on the outside circumference of the case), the odds are REAL GOOD, you'll wind up puncturing the insulation on your field winding assy and all (*&& can break loose as a consequence.

Originally, the case was pre-drilled and painted prior to generator assy at Delco Remy. They installed the field windings, the armature, brushes and the end caps and installed the ID tag after the generator was tested. The pre-drilled holes were sized to make an interference fit with the knurled shank of the mounting rivets. So, they were simply 'tapped' home and remained in place.

When removing existing rivets, you may find the existing holes become 'wallowed out' and don't make a good interference fit to hold the replacement rivets supplied with your reproduction ID tag. If so, you'll have to become a little cleaver using a THIN SHORT piece of shim material and/or an adhesive like JB Weld to hold the rivets + tag in place.

Remember, the rivets had a CONTROLLED LENGTH so they couldn't extend inside the case past the ID of the inner wall and pierce/rub the field winding assy and short it out. Be careful using any substitute rivets that aren't rated for this application!

[dale edlund]

Re: Thank you & question

Mike & Jack, thank you for your response. Have a question for Jack. Were the holes drilled all the way through the case, or just part way? Also where do I get JD weld or could I use epoxy? Thanks again. Dale Edlund

[dale edlund]

Re: Thank you & question

Mike & Jack, thank you for your response. Have a question for Jack. Were the holes drilled all the way through the case, or just part way? Also where do I get JD weld or could I use epoxy? Thanks again. Dale Edlund

[Theodore K.]

Re: Thank you & question

Dale,
JB weld is an epoxy that has a metal filler. You can buy it anymost any autoparts store and probably wal-mart as well.

One other thought on drilling out the old rivits. Jack is correct in that you can easily drill through and into the winding which would be bad. However, I have drilled into transmission cases, etc with controlled depth by using a small piece of copper or metal tubing that is slipped over the bit. The length of the tubing is such that the exposed drill tip is no longer than the thickness of the generator housing. This is tricky to be sure. Be patient and be sure the drill is chucked firmly and not loose. Use light pressure on the drill. Since the diameter of the pin is small, try and use a smaller bit the first time. You might be able to then work the piece free using an awl or small punch. Otherwise use a bit the diameter of the rivit.
Just a suggestion.
Jack may be correct in telling you to remove the windings but that is not so easy either. I would take the endcaps and armature out so you can measure and see how close the windings are to the case. Good luck.
Ted

[Theodore K.]

Re: Thank you & question

Dale,
JB weld is an epoxy that has a metal filler. You can buy it anymost any autoparts store and probably wal-mart as well.

One other thought on drilling out the old rivits. Jack is correct in that you can easily drill through and into the winding which would be bad. However, I have drilled into transmission cases, etc with controlled depth by using a small piece of copper or metal tubing that is slipped over the bit. The length of the tubing is such that the exposed drill tip is no longer than the thickness of the generator housing. This is tricky to be sure. Be patient and be sure the drill is chucked firmly and not loose. Use light pressure on the drill. Since the diameter of the pin is small, try and use a smaller bit the first time. You might be able to then work the piece free using an awl or small punch. Otherwise use a bit the diameter of the rivit.
Just a suggestion.
Jack may be correct in telling you to remove the windings but that is not so easy either. I would take the endcaps and armature out so you can measure and see how close the windings are to the case. Good luck.
Ted