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I own a 1971 Corvette T-top that I have owned since 1974. The car has a 454 cubic inch motor with a 365 horsepower and a M-22 transmission. Twenty two years ago I had the motor rebuilt. The engine builder decked the block and removed the I.D. numbers. I’m in the process of having the motor totally rebuilt. I would like to know what the letters and numbers should be on that part of the block. I would really appreciate your help in solving my problem.
It really doesn't much matter at this point in time. Once they are gone, they are gone.
If you mean you want them so you can restamp it, I'd suggest you didn't. With all the nit-picking people do on those numbers, someone will come along and see it is a restamp (probably obvious if it was decked 22 years ago) and then start a stink.
Worse is if you sell the car with the numbers stamped and then did determine the restamp. Then with the courts how they are, the owner might sue you for fraud, even though you know the engine is original. Unfortunately, you'd have to prove that.
The 365 hp would not have had the M22 originally. Only the 425 hp and some LT1 engines would have had it.
It really doesn't much matter at this point in time. Once they are gone, they are gone.
If you mean you want them so you can restamp it, I'd suggest you didn't. With all the nit-picking people do on those numbers, someone will come along and see it is a restamp (probably obvious if it was decked 22 years ago) and then start a stink.
Worse is if you sell the car with the numbers stamped and then did determine the restamp. Then with the courts how they are, the owner might sue you for fraud, even though you know the engine is original. Unfortunately, you'd have to prove that.
The 365 hp would not have had the M22 originally. Only the 425 hp and some LT1 engines would have had it.
Obviously this is a controversial topic. Your builder should know what codes to put on the block. If they don't, then you don't want them to touch your pad. Not only would they need to stamp the code and VIN, but will need to duplicate the factory broach marks. The devil is in the details with engine pads, and you need someone who is skilled and knowledgeable on restamping. This becomes an ethical question, and you alone will have to make that decision. I do think there is a big difference between restamping a block as it came from the factory (if that can accurately be determined and documented), and changing into something that it never was. But that's just my opinion. BTW, don't be suprised if your restamp is detected. As good as some restamps are, there are those that are just as good at detected it. Or you can just save all the hassle, leave the pad blank, drive and enjoy the car. That said CPH is the code for a 71 454/365 4 speed.
Obviously this is a controversial topic. Your builder should know what codes to put on the block. If they don't, then you don't want them to touch your pad. Not only would they need to stamp the code and VIN, but will need to duplicate the factory broach marks. The devil is in the details with engine pads, and you need someone who is skilled and knowledgeable on restamping. This becomes an ethical question, and you alone will have to make that decision. I do think there is a big difference between restamping a block as it came from the factory (if that can accurately be determined and documented), and changing into something that it never was. But that's just my opinion. BTW, don't be suprised if your restamp is detected. As good as some restamps are, there are those that are just as good at detected it. Or you can just save all the hassle, leave the pad blank, drive and enjoy the car. That said CPH is the code for a 71 454/365 4 speed.
If you are very fortunate, to have the blue certification label still attached and readable on the driver side door, some of these labels when imprinted from the protecto plate were not aligned quite perfect and remnants of both engine stamping and trans stamping can be seen.
This would be the only way, I know that you could get the numeric portion of the stamp to be correct for your particular vehicle. Otherwise the stamp configuration pertaining to the block portion info would be TXXXXCPH. You would need the 4 numeric digits in place of x's.
If you are very fortunate, to have the blue certification label still attached and readable on the driver side door, some of these labels when imprinted from the protecto plate were not aligned quite perfect and remnants of both engine stamping and trans stamping can be seen.
This would be the only way, I know that you could get the numeric portion of the stamp to be correct for your particular vehicle. Otherwise the stamp configuration pertaining to the block portion info would be TXXXXCPH. You would need the 4 numeric digits in place of x's.
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