Calling John Hinckley - battery cables

[Michael H.]

Re: More on battery cables

My OLD race partner made all the cables for my race cars using welding cable but he soldered them. I remember him mounting the connector in a vise with the open end up and dropping chunks of solder into the cup part of the connector until it was about half full. He then heated the cup using a propane torch until the solder was liquid, then inserted the end of the cable into it. Might be an alternative if the crimping tool isn't available.

[Michael H.]

Re: More on battery cables

My OLD race partner made all the cables for my race cars using welding cable but he soldered them. I remember him mounting the connector in a vise with the open end up and dropping chunks of solder into the cup part of the connector until it was about half full. He then heated the cup using a propane torch until the solder was liquid, then inserted the end of the cable into it. Might be an alternative if the crimping tool isn't available.

[Craig S.]

Re: More on battery cables

Thx everyone!.......Craig

[Craig S.]

Re: More on battery cables

Thx everyone!.......Craig

[Craig S.]

Re: More on battery cables

I guess the other end will need a GM side terminal connector, I have seen repair units at Pep Boys and Auto Zone, but they look pretty kludgy with bolts/clamps versus a crimped on connector.....but it may be the only way to attach a welding cable for the battery end.....Craig

[Craig S.]

Re: More on battery cables

I guess the other end will need a GM side terminal connector, I have seen repair units at Pep Boys and Auto Zone, but they look pretty kludgy with bolts/clamps versus a crimped on connector.....but it may be the only way to attach a welding cable for the battery end.....Craig

[Grant Hile]

Re: More on battery cables

I've used the solder type ends with welding cables many times. It makes a great connection and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I put a little flux on both to assure a good bond, then heat and melt a little soulder on the cable. After that I melt soulder in the hole and insert the end. It makes a great connection.

[Grant Hile]

Re: More on battery cables

I've used the solder type ends with welding cables many times. It makes a great connection and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I put a little flux on both to assure a good bond, then heat and melt a little soulder on the cable. After that I melt soulder in the hole and insert the end. It makes a great connection.

[Grant Hile]

Re: More on battery cables

Craig the make a terminal for your post that has a 3/8 stud on the terminal that is just right for the copper ends to attach to.

[Grant Hile]

Re: More on battery cables

Craig the make a terminal for your post that has a 3/8 stud on the terminal that is just right for the copper ends to attach to.

[Terry M.]

Re: More on battery cables

Mine was for a top terminal, and I used the repair type clamp with bolts. Looked bad, but covered it with NO OXYD. That made it look worse. Function is sometimes better than form.
Craig, Take a look at these Caprice/SS cables this guy makes. I think he will make you a set for your Corvette, if you want. You can email him. Not shown in the photo are red and black covers for the side terminal connection.




Impala cables

[Terry M.]

Re: More on battery cables

Mine was for a top terminal, and I used the repair type clamp with bolts. Looked bad, but covered it with NO OXYD. That made it look worse. Function is sometimes better than form.
Craig, Take a look at these Caprice/SS cables this guy makes. I think he will make you a set for your Corvette, if you want. You can email him. Not shown in the photo are red and black covers for the side terminal connection.




Impala cables

[John H.]

Re: More on battery cables

Here's the crimper tool I've used for many years for 1/0 and 2/0 welding cable - Eastwood sells them, about $30 or so; heavy, laminated steel frame, spring-loaded (down) anvil. I slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing on the cable, strip the outer cable sheath back, insert into the tubular copper lug barrel, position the lug in the crimper, whack the top of the anvil mightily, do the heat-shrink thing, and the job is done. Have made up countless rear-mounted battery cables this way; I buy the copper lugs at a local mom-and-pop True Value hardware store - Lowe's and Home Depot or any welding supply shop probably have lots of them. Short of a solid copper busbar, welding cable is about the lowest resistance conductor you can find.

[John H.]

Re: More on battery cables

Here's the crimper tool I've used for many years for 1/0 and 2/0 welding cable - Eastwood sells them, about $30 or so; heavy, laminated steel frame, spring-loaded (down) anvil. I slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing on the cable, strip the outer cable sheath back, insert into the tubular copper lug barrel, position the lug in the crimper, whack the top of the anvil mightily, do the heat-shrink thing, and the job is done. Have made up countless rear-mounted battery cables this way; I buy the copper lugs at a local mom-and-pop True Value hardware store - Lowe's and Home Depot or any welding supply shop probably have lots of them. Short of a solid copper busbar, welding cable is about the lowest resistance conductor you can find.

[Craig S.]

Re: More on battery cables

Thx Terry, John, and Grant. I will check out Eastwood for the crimper, a bargain at $30. I was worried we were talking a $400 ratcheting crimper with dies or something. Terry - while I like to make neat cables, function is above form, this is for my 81 C20 pickup with 454....not my vettes..... Craig