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I found a 64 thats in pretty good shape though the frame has been patched in all the typical places. Not a very quality job however.
My question is this. If this car is destined to be a driver does it make more sense to buy an aftermarket frame or a clean original? Price would be the largest driver. I'm assuming aftermarket quality is the same as original.
I had rust damage repaired in the kickups and rear side rails of my 63 driver. With the body off, the repairs are noticeable, but when the body goes back on there's not much to see. If your frame is straight and mechanically sound, I'd save the coins for buying the 62.
I had rust damage repaired in the kickups and rear side rails of my 63 driver. With the body off, the repairs are noticeable, but when the body goes back on there's not much to see. If your frame is straight and mechanically sound, I'd save the coins for buying the 62.
For a driver I would let price be the determining factor. But I think that you will be hard pressed to find a STRAIGHT, SOLID frame used. Remember, the last one made was 40 years ago.
For a driver I would let price be the determining factor. But I think that you will be hard pressed to find a STRAIGHT, SOLID frame used. Remember, the last one made was 40 years ago.
Gary, There are three ways to go. New midyear frame(most exp), New shark frame that has been modified to midyear body spects(less exp), and a used midyear frame(hard to find). The last frame quote I got for a guy (complete change-out, body off, new fuel and brake lines etc. Was $15,000, I've heard some shops will do it for $10,000.
Gary, There are three ways to go. New midyear frame(most exp), New shark frame that has been modified to midyear body spects(less exp), and a used midyear frame(hard to find). The last frame quote I got for a guy (complete change-out, body off, new fuel and brake lines etc. Was $15,000, I've heard some shops will do it for $10,000.
I've got a pretty decent setp for a shop. I was going to attempt the body swap myself.
Thats why I was mostly interested in the cost of the frame.
Have you heard good things about the later model frames reconfigured for mid year applications? That sound like the best approach
I've got a pretty decent setp for a shop. I was going to attempt the body swap myself.
Thats why I was mostly interested in the cost of the frame.
Have you heard good things about the later model frames reconfigured for mid year applications? That sound like the best approach
I'd talk with Caledonia Classics (he'll be at Carlisle) about swapping frames with one he has repaired or restored. He's the outfit that makes the repair sections. I know people who have had them repair their frames, or have just swapped to make the transition go faster.
I don't have his phone number handy, but I'm sure you could call him too.
Patrick
Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.
I'd talk with Caledonia Classics (he'll be at Carlisle) about swapping frames with one he has repaired or restored. He's the outfit that makes the repair sections. I know people who have had them repair their frames, or have just swapped to make the transition go faster.
I don't have his phone number handy, but I'm sure you could call him too.
Patrick
Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.
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