C2 Lower Control Arm Bushings

[Eugene B.]

Members,
I'm looking for advice on how to remove the bushings from the lower control arms. I don't have an arbor or hydraulic press so the shop manual doesn't help me much. I guess I need a "shade tree" solution, if you know what I mean.

Thanks,
Gene

[Chuck R.]

Re: C2 Lower Control Arm Bushings

Is the lower control arm out from under the car?

[Chuck R.]

Re: C2 Lower Control Arm Bushings

Is the lower control arm out from under the car?

[Chuck R.]

Re: This is what I did for my C3

Mine were removed as complete units with the shafts still in place. I'll assume yours is the same.

First I took a drill bit just small enough to get between the inner and outter steel sleeves and drilled the rubber out working all the way around or until it gave it up.

With both ends free of the rubber, I was then able to remove the shafts.

I then used a scrificial screw driver and chisel and tapped the inner sleeve off of the shafts.

Now with the outter sleeves, you have to be careful.

I used my trusty die grinder and cutoff wheel and very carefully notched the flared end that stops the bushing against the control arm.

I then used the screw driver and chisel and collapsed the collar inward until it released it's grip. There's not that much lip that holds the outter sleeve in place.

No burning rubber and relatively quick and safe.

Again, that was for my C3.

If it's similar, a word of caution with re-installing the bushings.

Be careful not to beat on the bushing too too hard or you might bend the control arm surface inward creating a potential alignment/pinch issue.

And most importantly, make sure that the shaft is in place before you set the bushings or you will get to practice the removal process ALL over again

Chuckster

[Chuck R.]

Re: This is what I did for my C3

Mine were removed as complete units with the shafts still in place. I'll assume yours is the same.

First I took a drill bit just small enough to get between the inner and outter steel sleeves and drilled the rubber out working all the way around or until it gave it up.

With both ends free of the rubber, I was then able to remove the shafts.

I then used a scrificial screw driver and chisel and tapped the inner sleeve off of the shafts.

Now with the outter sleeves, you have to be careful.

I used my trusty die grinder and cutoff wheel and very carefully notched the flared end that stops the bushing against the control arm.

I then used the screw driver and chisel and collapsed the collar inward until it released it's grip. There's not that much lip that holds the outter sleeve in place.

No burning rubber and relatively quick and safe.

Again, that was for my C3.

If it's similar, a word of caution with re-installing the bushings.

Be careful not to beat on the bushing too too hard or you might bend the control arm surface inward creating a potential alignment/pinch issue.

And most importantly, make sure that the shaft is in place before you set the bushings or you will get to practice the removal process ALL over again

Chuckster

[Eugene B.]

Re: Thanks, Chuck

Chuck,
Thank you for your answer to my post. Removing the uppers was an easy task. Sounds like the lowers are going to be a little more difficult. Thanks again.

Regards,
Gene

[Eugene B.]

Re: Thanks, Chuck

Chuck,
Thank you for your answer to my post. Removing the uppers was an easy task. Sounds like the lowers are going to be a little more difficult. Thanks again.

Regards,
Gene

[Chuck R.]

Re: Just more time consuming

It's not that hard really.

It's more about taking your time and being careful that's all....piece of cake

Chuck

[Chuck R.]

Re: Just more time consuming

It's not that hard really.

It's more about taking your time and being careful that's all....piece of cake

Chuck

[Mike Cobine]

Re: This is what I did for my C3

For beating the bushings in, you can hang one ear over a bench, set it on a large socket or short pipe that the bushing will fit into, and drive the bushing in. Check that you can get the pivot arm in before going all the way (you should be able to).

Then on the other end, sacrifice a cheap vise so that you have a surface to rest that ear on and let the pivot shaft drop between. Unless you happen to have two equal very heavy steel objects to hold the arm and let the shaft drop between.

If you have a large quality gear puller (not one of the $15 k-Mart specials), you can use it as a press to press bushings in and out by having the arms hold the A-arm ears and the screw go against a bearing block on the top of the bushing. It is slower, but less destructive.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: This is what I did for my C3

For beating the bushings in, you can hang one ear over a bench, set it on a large socket or short pipe that the bushing will fit into, and drive the bushing in. Check that you can get the pivot arm in before going all the way (you should be able to).

Then on the other end, sacrifice a cheap vise so that you have a surface to rest that ear on and let the pivot shaft drop between. Unless you happen to have two equal very heavy steel objects to hold the arm and let the shaft drop between.

If you have a large quality gear puller (not one of the $15 k-Mart specials), you can use it as a press to press bushings in and out by having the arms hold the A-arm ears and the screw go against a bearing block on the top of the bushing. It is slower, but less destructive.

[Chuck R.]

Re: How about this Mike

Say you split a piece of thick wall pipe to slide over the shaft and still cover the opening for the bushing?

Let both the pipe and shaft rest between the closed up jaws of the vise and THEN have at it

Chuckster

[Chuck R.]

Re: How about this Mike

Say you split a piece of thick wall pipe to slide over the shaft and still cover the opening for the bushing?

Let both the pipe and shaft rest between the closed up jaws of the vise and THEN have at it

Chuckster

[Mike Geary]

Re: Thanks, Chuck

Gene:

Couple of minor details that can make the installation process less traumatic:
1. freeze the bushing overnight
2. make sure the control arms don't have paint buildup or corrosion in the holes.
3. lubricate the bushing lightly with Lubriplate

This is a classic Shadetree project since most of us will never own the correct tools & fixturing.

BTW: I just burned my old bushings out since I was going to blast/repaint the arms anyway. Worked great and was easier than my first time, which was using an air chisel that left a few scars on the arm.

Mike

[Mike Geary]

Re: Thanks, Chuck

Gene:

Couple of minor details that can make the installation process less traumatic:
1. freeze the bushing overnight
2. make sure the control arms don't have paint buildup or corrosion in the holes.
3. lubricate the bushing lightly with Lubriplate

This is a classic Shadetree project since most of us will never own the correct tools & fixturing.

BTW: I just burned my old bushings out since I was going to blast/repaint the arms anyway. Worked great and was easier than my first time, which was using an air chisel that left a few scars on the arm.

Mike