C2 Clutch Overhaul

[David W.]

I decided to tackle a clutch replacement in my '64 driver (original motor but C3 transmission). I've done a few in my life but never a Corvette. I have the transmission out but it was a challenge, even with the car on a lift. I eventually had to remove the linkage which made the job much easier. Now pulling the engine seems like the right thing to do for a cosmetic makeover of the engine and bay.

I've read in the archives the pros and cons of reinstalling the engine with the trans attached or not. Based on my experience while removing the trans, I will mate the units and install all at once. I hope to be able to rent an engine hoist with a leveler to tilt it into place. I have a couple of questions. I would really like to reinstall the linkage beforehand. It's a Hurst shifter if that makes a difference. Is that wise or will I have clearance issues?

Secondly, I will buy a new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, throwout bearing fork, and pilot bushing. I want to stick with all GM components. Is there a source on the net that people trust for good service and good prices or do I go to my local GM dealer?

The input shaft is 10 splines. I'm assuming I'm buying components that match the engine config (327-365hp), not the transmission. Correct? I have part numbers culled from various archive messages but if someone has them all handy I would be most appreciative.

I'm sure more questions will develop but this is a start. Thanks for any and all input. David

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

David----

Forget about trying to install the linkage on the transmission prior to installation in the car. It's MUCH easier to do it after the transmission is installed. I wouldn't even attempt to try it the way you suggest.

As far as clutch parts go, you don't need to be concerned about where to purchase the GM parts. That's because of those you mentioned, VERY few are still available. The only ones that remain available are the pilot bushing and release bearing. ALL other parts are GM-discontinued. The available GM parts are as follows:

pilot bushing (bronze type)-----GM #10125996

pilot bushing (roller type)-----GM #14061685

release bearing------------------GM #15680264

You application requires a 12-3/4", 153 tooth standard weight flywheel, a 10.4" diaphragm spring-type pressure plate assembly, and a 10 spline, 10.4" friction disc. I recommend a LUK/Sachs unit for replacement given the unavailability of the GM parts.

[Tracy C.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

David,

I found the best deal on LUK clutchs at this website. One of these days I hope to actually use it.....

tc




dialaclutch.com

[Christopher R.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

I bought my Luk clutch from these guys. No fuss. No muss. They were the cheapest, even with shipping. Even less than my local Pep Boys, who also carries Luk clutches. I had done all the research beforehand, and was sure of what I wanted. I wouldn't want to be shipping this heavy thing back and forth to do returns if it was wrong. Believe they're in Florida.

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

Joe:

Is there any reason why you recommend Luk? Are they made differently, or better than most other brands?

[John H.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

LuK is the largest OEM clutch manufacturer in the world - they really know their stuff, and make quality products. Among other things, they make the OEM Viper clutch, which has proven to be far superior to any of the Viper "tuner" clutches. Their "RepSet" line has direct replacements for most vintage applications.

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

Thanks John. The reason that I asked, is because I am having "problems" with my Borg Warner clutch, which is new, and came as a stock replacement kit. I say "problems", because it overcenters only under severe duty. In normal use, it is fine. I now understand that overcentering is inherent in the design of diaphragm spring, and Borg and Beck clutches. Mine is a diaphragm (1965).
It looks to me that the problem is very hard to "design out", and in some cases, certain manufacturers use weights on the spring fingers which actually exacerbates the problem. Does LuK have the answer? My Borg Warner clutch seems to be a quality piece also. What do you think?

Joe

PS:

As per Mike Hanson's and Clem's advice, I took a look at my clutch freeplay. The pedal was too high at about 3/4". The setting for 1965 should be 1 1/4" (it was increased in 1965, from 7/8", probably for this reason). I increased it to 2", and now the clutch engages about 1 3/4" from the floor. This just might solve the "problem", and vindicate Borg Warner.

[David W.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

Thanks for all the great advice. I ordered the Luk clutch from Dial-A-Clutch. What about the flywheel. They don't sell them. Does Napa or someone else locally have them (freight must be high due to weight) and are they all the same? Appreciate all the advice.

[John H.]

Re: C2 Clutch Overhaul

Joe -

Have never had that problem with any Viper, but fuel cutoff is at 6200 rpm on a Viper - they're "torque-monsters"; with 440 ft-lbs. of torque at 1500 rpm, they don't need to be "wound-up"