The special shoulder screw on my 71 front turn signal lens is stripped.How do I get the screw out, without damaging the original lens and grille? Is there enough of a shoulder left, after I drill the head off, to put vice grips on and remove the remaining screw parts?
C3..Screw removal????
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
Bruce
Try using a screwdriver with a magnatized tip and turn the screw as if you are taking it out. Maybe it will come out enough to use pliers on it to get it out the rest of the way. I don't know if I would drill the head off as a first option. If you drill the head off you may have enough to grab onto it with a needle nose vise grip or pliers, or you can possibly use a small easy-out and stick it into the slots of the head and try getting it out that way. Good luck
Mike D #1787- Top
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
When you say stripped do you mean the phillips head slots are rounded to the point you can't turn it?
If so, I've found that a screw driver with the small interchangeble magnetic tips stored in the handle can save the day as those hardened tips can really bite well into the old slots.
If the whole screw is spinning, then I think I would try either a dremel or die grinder with a reaming type bit and carefully take the head off.
Keeping the screw from spinning is the trick, as you may have to get creative and gently wedge a small pointed item beside the screw head and lense to bind it in place.
If you don't have a die grinder or dremel, then I would try and drill out the screw head using wire sized bits stepping up in size until the screw head pops free.
Just beware that you will have to be very careful not to melt the lense from the heat transfer.
Pretty long winded explanation for such a small screw huh?
Hope this helps.
Chuck- Top
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
The head can't be cut off...it's countersunk.
If the threads are stripped as Chuck says, I would try bending a coat hanger into a T-handle (or use a large nail or similar "tool"). Clean the "tool" end with lacquer thinner, and JBWeld the end to the screw head.
The problem of holding the "tool" in position until the JBWeld cures without boogering the lens is left to the guy with the problem. If the threads are well stripped (it spins), it won't take much "pull" to get the screw out...turn the "tool" counterclockwise while pulling outward.
Of course, the next problem is going to be how to get the new screw to stay in the stripped hole. JBweld?- Top
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
There are a couple of options if the hole is stripped. One,of course, is a Heli-Coil or the equivilent. The other is to use a product that Permatex makes, P/N 81668. It is called Stripped Thread Repair. For low strength applications such as the lens screw, it is a very good repair. I have used it for years on such applications. A lot easier that the heli-coilDick Whittington- Top
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
Hi....All very good ideas!!. The screw is VERY tight. I turned it about a 1/4 turn using the magnetic/brand new bit and just about tore the skin off my palm. I can tighten it/loosen it about a 1/4 turn now and then it does not turn(loosen ) anymore.......
Is it time for the drill press? I have a new lens, I just don't want to mark up the bezel.....- Top
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Re: C3..Screw removal????
Bruce, if you can move it, I would suggest that you soak the screw in penetrating oil for a couple of days. They alternately loosen and tighten the screw. You should probably gain a little each time that you do this. It may take some time, but considering the price of grilles, time is cheap. Remember with frozen fasteners, patience is job #1 !Dick Whittington- Top
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Re: Absolutley right Dick!
I call it bumping, when you apply pressure and then either back off or reverse direction.
If it's moving, your on your way to getting it out, but you just can't force it by getting impatient.
With the help of some PB Blaster, this issue too shall come to pass
Chuck- Top
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Re: What's PB Blaster?
Can't speak for Canada Bruce, but PB Blaster can be picked up at local hardware stores and big chains such as Lowes and Home Depot.
It's a great penetrant that leaves a nice light, residual film.
I'd offer to get you a can but I'd probably be put in cuffs by my friends from "Home Land Security" for shipping potentially explosive propellents
Chuck 32205- Top
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