OK,
As per Tom DeWitt's request, I'm going to try to give you links and photos.
Realize that I am NOT a radiator cap expert. It all started when Terry McManmon and I discussed the oil cap article in the Restorer about 5 (?) years ago. The subject of a similar article on radiator caps came to light, and I told him I'd look into it. I took a LOT of photos, but once 1970-1972 engine suffix code stickers became my passion in early 2000, the radiator cap thing kind of died. So, I've got a lot of pictures and research...somewhere. Actually, I know where it all is, and this thread may make me work with a few others who have offered assistance, and write the article.
Also, I post this ONLY for educational purposes, and in no way is this meant in any other way. No one who knows me would ever call me argumentative, belligerent, bossy or cocky (unless I'm whipping your butt on the Sporting Clay course ) so please do not construe it as such.
For this comparison, I used three RC-15 caps. One is a reproduction. I believe I purchased it through Paragon, but I suspect the seller does not matter as to the best of my knowledge there is only one manufacturer. The second is a "real deal" RC-15 on my 1972 Bowtie car. The third is a current day ACDelco piece purchased through The Last Detail and actually used in driving. Sorry about any of the photos with regard to quality.
Note that these comments are applicable ONLY to the 3 caps I have, but I have found that they "could" (can?) be generalized to more of the radiator caps in existence. "Actual results and mileage may vary" or something like that.
Here is a picture of all 3 caps next to each other: To me, the most obvious item is the smaller rivet on the repro cap. The original cap and the current ACD cap are virtually identical in this respect with larger rivets.
On the left is the reproduction cap, on the right the original: Things to note: 1) smaller rivet on the reproduction as noted above,
2) the letters AC in the AC logo are distinctly "fatter" on the reproduction. In the original "A" there is actually a triangle formed by the 3 lines of the A, while the reproduction is more like a circle since the fatter letter obliterates the triangle,
3) the 15# of the reproduction cap appear the same size, while my original distinctly has a larger 15 and a smaller # with respect to each other and with respect to the RC-15 numbers beneath them,
The arrows:
On the reproduction, note that the arrows are closer to the wording TURN TIGHT than they are to the center depression of the cap: In addition, the lower arrow starts in the middle of the E of rEmove, and ends in the middle of the L of slowLy. It is similarly closer to the wording than towards the center.
On the original cap, the arrows are equidistant between the wording and the center depression of the cap, both the upper and lower arrow. The lower original arrow also starts at the beginning of the E and ends at the beginning of the Y.
Both upper and lower original arrows also have a triangle formed at the pointed end, whereas the reproduction has no "crossbar" of the triangle and the arrow is "open" from shaft to point.
The letters:
Overall, the font used on the reproduction cap is slightly smaller. I measured the first T of TURN, and it came out at "about" 0.2 inches tall on my original, 0.175 inches on the reproduction. The letters are also "thicker" in appearance, and the original cap has a distinct depression where the letters have been smacked into the cap. Unfortunately I found this tough to capture in a picture but it is notable when both are in hand. This depression is missing on the reproduction cap.
The bottoms:
Here are the reproduction, the original and the ACD: Note that the original and current ACD use the same "cup" on the bottom, while the reproduction has more of a, uh, teat? The reproduction also has a copper (?) metal base closest to the cap while the original and ACD are identical. The springs in the reproduction and original "turn" the same direction, and here the ACD differs.
Note that the locking tabs on the reproduction are about 2/3 the size of the tabs on the original and the ACD.
So that's WAY more than most of you wanted to know.
Again, this is provided in the interest of education.
Patrick
As per Tom DeWitt's request, I'm going to try to give you links and photos.
Realize that I am NOT a radiator cap expert. It all started when Terry McManmon and I discussed the oil cap article in the Restorer about 5 (?) years ago. The subject of a similar article on radiator caps came to light, and I told him I'd look into it. I took a LOT of photos, but once 1970-1972 engine suffix code stickers became my passion in early 2000, the radiator cap thing kind of died. So, I've got a lot of pictures and research...somewhere. Actually, I know where it all is, and this thread may make me work with a few others who have offered assistance, and write the article.
Also, I post this ONLY for educational purposes, and in no way is this meant in any other way. No one who knows me would ever call me argumentative, belligerent, bossy or cocky (unless I'm whipping your butt on the Sporting Clay course ) so please do not construe it as such.
For this comparison, I used three RC-15 caps. One is a reproduction. I believe I purchased it through Paragon, but I suspect the seller does not matter as to the best of my knowledge there is only one manufacturer. The second is a "real deal" RC-15 on my 1972 Bowtie car. The third is a current day ACDelco piece purchased through The Last Detail and actually used in driving. Sorry about any of the photos with regard to quality.
Note that these comments are applicable ONLY to the 3 caps I have, but I have found that they "could" (can?) be generalized to more of the radiator caps in existence. "Actual results and mileage may vary" or something like that.
Here is a picture of all 3 caps next to each other: To me, the most obvious item is the smaller rivet on the repro cap. The original cap and the current ACD cap are virtually identical in this respect with larger rivets.
On the left is the reproduction cap, on the right the original: Things to note: 1) smaller rivet on the reproduction as noted above,
2) the letters AC in the AC logo are distinctly "fatter" on the reproduction. In the original "A" there is actually a triangle formed by the 3 lines of the A, while the reproduction is more like a circle since the fatter letter obliterates the triangle,
3) the 15# of the reproduction cap appear the same size, while my original distinctly has a larger 15 and a smaller # with respect to each other and with respect to the RC-15 numbers beneath them,
The arrows:
On the reproduction, note that the arrows are closer to the wording TURN TIGHT than they are to the center depression of the cap: In addition, the lower arrow starts in the middle of the E of rEmove, and ends in the middle of the L of slowLy. It is similarly closer to the wording than towards the center.
On the original cap, the arrows are equidistant between the wording and the center depression of the cap, both the upper and lower arrow. The lower original arrow also starts at the beginning of the E and ends at the beginning of the Y.
Both upper and lower original arrows also have a triangle formed at the pointed end, whereas the reproduction has no "crossbar" of the triangle and the arrow is "open" from shaft to point.
The letters:
Overall, the font used on the reproduction cap is slightly smaller. I measured the first T of TURN, and it came out at "about" 0.2 inches tall on my original, 0.175 inches on the reproduction. The letters are also "thicker" in appearance, and the original cap has a distinct depression where the letters have been smacked into the cap. Unfortunately I found this tough to capture in a picture but it is notable when both are in hand. This depression is missing on the reproduction cap.
The bottoms:
Here are the reproduction, the original and the ACD: Note that the original and current ACD use the same "cup" on the bottom, while the reproduction has more of a, uh, teat? The reproduction also has a copper (?) metal base closest to the cap while the original and ACD are identical. The springs in the reproduction and original "turn" the same direction, and here the ACD differs.
Note that the locking tabs on the reproduction are about 2/3 the size of the tabs on the original and the ACD.
So that's WAY more than most of you wanted to know.
Again, this is provided in the interest of education.
Patrick
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