Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

[Jim R.]

I've just developed one of those problems out of nowhere. The car has been running perfectly. I drove it about 20 miles - got it good and hot - stopped and about 3 hours later, when it was well cooled off, it would not start. The symptoms were odd - when I turned the key, all lights on the dash panel came on but there was nothing going to the starter. Not even a click and the lights did not dim. I put a new battery in about 6 months ago so it's not a battery problem. I tried working the clutch to see if the switch was not connecting, but nothing happened.

We put a set of juper cables on it and it started. Funny thing is I don't think the jump had anything to do with getting it to start. It was as if just making the connection caused something to "connect" and it fired right off.

The next day I drove it again and when I shut it off it would not start about 15 minutes later. It sat for about 3 hours and I tried it again and it fired right off like there was never a problem.

Any ideas?
Jim #33086

[Wayne W.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

Solinoid or the connections to the starter and battery.

[Harmon C.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

Jim Battery shut off not making conection if you have one. Lyle

[Roy B.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

Sounds like dirty or bad cables to me.

[Jim R.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

The negative battery cable is new and the connections are all tight.

How would I go about checking the solenoid?

Thanks,
Jim #33086

[Jim R.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

Lyle:

Not sure i understand your response. I have all internal lights and dash lights when I turn the key on. I'm just not getting anything to the starter.

Thanks,
Jim #33086

[Clem Z.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

put a test light or a volt meter on the solenoid terminal that comes from the ignition switch,purple in color in think and see if you get a voltage reading when trying to start the engine. no reading means the ignition switch could be bad,then try jumping between that terminal and the B+ battery terminal on the solenoid to see if that will spin the engine and if it does your ignition switch is at fault. also listen to see if you can hear the solenoid click and if it clicks and the starter does not spin the starter is going bad.

[Clem Z.]

PS

if all else fails try putting a jumper on the clutch switch terminals to make sure that is not bad

[Terry M.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

What Lyle is trying to say is that the green knob type battery cut-off switches are known to fail under high current draw -- like when trying to start the car. Do you have a battery cut-off switch? If so remove it, connect the battery cables direct to the battery, and try to start the car.

[Harmon C.]

Thanks Terry *NM*

[Jim R.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

Clem:

I checked all battery connections and they are tight. I next removed the wires from the large post (I think the B+) post on the solenoid, cleaned them and retightened them. I did not remove the small nut/wire (I cannot tell the color of the wire, but it is small guage)on the bottom of the solenoid as it looks clean and tight. I was working from underneath.

I drove it and 15 minutes after shutting it off, it would not start. With the clutch in and the key turned on, I got 12 volts on both of the solenoid posts mentioned above. I put the red lead on the post and the black lead on the frame or engine.

I did not try to get to the third post from above. Which two posts were you referring to to try to jump the solenoid to see if it would crank?

There was no clicking sound at the solenoid at all, but at one point, with the key held on for several seconds, something started clicking and it sounded like it was near the coil or in the dash.

Any more ideas?

Thanks,
Jim #33086

[Wayne W.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

I stand by my initial response. SOLINOID or the connections to it. If you will short the inside small terminal to the large positive post, you can prove it to yourself.

[Clem Z.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

the small terminal closest to the block is the one that activates the solenoid and that is one you should see voltage only when you turn the ignition to "start". the other small terminal is the one that supplies a full 12 volts to the ignition coil and this one also should only show voltage when you turn the ignition to "start". if the one closest to the block shows vlotage when you are in the "start" position and the other small terminal does not show voltage the solenoid is bad. if they both show voltage and the engine does not crank then the starter is bad.

[Jim R.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

O.K. - I'm a neophite mechanic. Help me out here.

Looking down at the solenoid from above, and imagine the front of the solenoid is a clock face pointing towards the front of the car. I see the large center post and a small terminal at about 7 o'clock. Apparently there is another small terminal at about 1 or 2 o'clock but I can't actually see it because of the insulating cloth over the wires on the center post.

With the ingnition key on but not turned to the start position and not depressing the clutch, I have 12 volts at the center post and at the 7 o'clock terminals.

Now, when I put a screwdriver near the 1 o'clock terminal, it sparks if I ground it on the block. I tried to get it on both the 1 o'clock terminal and the center post but I'm not sure I actually did it before I got a spark.

Should the key be OFF or ON or should it be in the start position? Should the clutch be depressed or not?

So, with the correct setup, you're saying the solenoid should engage and crank the engine?

Jim #33086

[Wayne W.]

Re: Starting Problem - '69 Small Block

If you short the center post to the small post nearest the block, the starter will turn over the engine if it is good. Take care under there though. Dont get run over. Make sure it is out of gear.