original engine

[Stephen W.]

Reading the replies to "sad story" raised some questions so I would like some opinions. I have a 64 327/300hp that is original. The car runs very strong and other than a little blue smoke out the one side at start up it does not use oil or leak. I suspect it could use a little freshening up of the value guides & seals and planned to go through everything over the winter months. Keep in mind this engine runs strong and after the initial startup does not smoke.
I see some prefer to use a working engine and crate up the original one for safekeeping.
If I consider this route should I rebuild the original engine or just leave it alone. As much as I can tell it has not been messed with so is it better to leave it completely original? Throw in a set of valve seals to stop the smoke or do a full rebuild and just crate it up to preserve it? I should also point out that even though I will "open it up" I don't run the car hard.
Judging wise will I do better with a fresh complete rebuild or the stocker that will show a mild amount of smoke out the left pipe when cold? I would not have it judged with a NOM installed.

[Jack H.]

Re: original engine

This is a personal judgement call (set aside the original engine or rebuild & use it). Personally, there's little you can do (save freeze cracking the block) that can render it totally useless if you decide to rebuild and drive on.... Even if you snap a piston rod, that can ususally be fixed via sleeving the cylinder. AND, a good machinest can re-sleeve all eight holes and take you back to bone stock/nominal....

Of course, with a replacement engine, you've absolutely nothing to fear. Plus, modern crate engines that can be slipped in run STRONG and you can expect better gas milage with the performance boost. But, don't expect to take a weekend off for Flight judging with a replacement engine and fare well.

Now, before you decide to rip into the current motor and do a valve job, I'd recommend you have a competent mechanic do a compression check followed by a leak down test. That will pin point where your problem areas are before you tear into the engine!

You'll see, hole by hole, the compression profile of the engine with the compression check. The leak-down test will fault isolate low compression holes to: (1) intake valve, (2) exhaust valve, or (3) piston ring wear. You'll find out whether you're in for a simple top end rebuild or whether it's time for the current motor to undergo full disassembly and overall rebuild....

[Mike M.]

Re: original engine

if you aren't gonna have it judged, pull the 327/300 and roll it under your work bench. buy a GM crate small block(prices vary depending on horsepower desired), drop it in and have fun.mike/

[Gary S.]

Re: original engine

While I have no experince with crate engines, I do take issue with the idea that all of us with original engines should pull them out and store them for posterity sake. In my very limited experience, the Chevy engine is one of the most reliable engines every made. The caveat is that I don't have the experience or knowledge of many of those giving advice here. Assuming that you don't take your 30+ year old car to the drag strip daily, or try to win all of the starts off of the green light, I have no problem keeping your engine in your car. I just don't see a hand grenade in my engine compartment waiting for a time and place to explode.

Sorry for the disagreement.
Gary

[Stephen W.]

Re: original engine

Sound advice all around. Yes I agree the first order of business is a proper compression check. I've targeted the valve seals simply on my initial observation it will "burn off" once warmed up from a cold start and not be a problem again till it sits for at least a day.
My first thought was to do a complete diagnostic check of this engine and complete rebuild if needed, but the number of responces about dropping in a replacement for driving and storing the original for investment reasons had me thinking.
I appreciate the different opinions which give me some food for thought.

[Stephen W.]

Re: original engine

Don't be sorry Gary. The reason for my post was to canvas the different opinions on this subject. I appreciate you sharing yours.

[Dennis C.]

Tend to agree w/Gary... *NM*

[Patrick H.]

Re: original engine

I only suggested it as an easy way to get the car back on the road ASAP. Some of the GM short and long blocks are cheaper to buy new, with a warranty, than to rebuild an original - especially if he really has a major hole in the block or in a cylinder.

In my (limited) experience, it always seems to take forever to find someone trustworthy enough to actually evaluate an engine that has grenaded as described in the other thread, give you an estimate, and then actually rebuild it as you'd like. One of my Corvette acquaintences here in town waited almost 2 years. I'd like to actually drive my car instead of seeing it with an empty engine compartment.

So, if it were mine and the engine went Boom, I'd drop in a short or long block to drive while I decided if it was "worth" salvaging the original. In my Bowtie car it might be, but in my daily driver I'm not sure it would currently be worth the time and expense. So, it might end up under the bench for Ryan to reinstall someday when the car is his.

I would not pull an engine, though, just to "save" it if it was otherwise running fine. My 71's lasted 108,000 on its initial build and at the rate I put on miles should take another 35 years to reach its next rebuild. I'll be nearly 72 by then so maybe it will be Ryan's problem no matter what.

Patrick

[Gary S.]

Re: original engine

Patrick, I agree with your sound logic. IF my engine had failed and I wanted to get the car on the road, then a crate engine, dressed up to look as original as possible, is my first choice. OTH, if money is tight and you can only afford one or the other, then I would pull the bad engine and have it rebuilt. As I mentioned earlier, I would not pull a functioning engine just to save it for my grandson.
Gary

[Patrick H.]

Re: original engine

You pull the engine out of that LT-1 right now and I'll smack ya.

PH

[Allan Wicklund]

Re: original engine

Sometimes only the "Engine Gods" know what is in store for our engines. Some take a terrible beating and keep on ticking. Others just provide trouble on top of trouble. (Hmmmm, sounds like matrimony!). Anyway, for me the line is when do we stop throwing good money after bad? Great Luck to all! Al W.

[Roy B.]

Re: original engine

Your engine unless it has a piston hanging out the side of the block can be rebuilt many times. Even boring if needed at lest two times. Why replace it? How many miles and how long has it been running ?and after you rebuild it ,how many more miles or years can it run ?.
Pulling and saving it is like many owners that trailer their Corvette even after getting all the awards in the world one can get .

I have 110,000 miles on my 55 Corvette now that is all original even the engine, YES I service , repair,replace,even rebuild any thing needed that is ORIGINAL so that I can drive and in joy MY Corvette every day. ( I restored it so that we can drive it, not saving it for some one else). Two days after restoring it (23 years ago)we drove to NY from Ca. (twice) and still drive it.
Every one that we have met that also drives their's get their awards every day.

[Gary S.]

engine is already out and

I have a beautiful 4 clyinder diesel from my Mercedes ready to go in. (62 horsepower btw) That should give me the gas mileage I am looking for with killer looks.

Gary

[Chuck R.]

Re: Well, if you ask me

And I know that you didn't, I would look at the car and how it's to be treated.

As I'm going to have a ball with mine including some hair raising through the gears launches, I would be devastated if I "Grenaded" the original power plant not to mention the decreased value of the car if I were to re-sell it without the original engine.

Yes, these power plants can be rebuilt and rebuilt again, but as Steve stated, the car was just idling and look a what happened. I can't imagine what the internals of that power plant would look like at oh say 4000 or 5000 RPMs. It would have looked like a boucing betty had gone off inside!

But you know what, that's Steve's call caus it's his wallet and he know's how he's going to treat his car.

If it's putt putt putt to the meets and judging, and casual moderate sunday drives, then the argument is there to rebuild and re-install the original.

I'm for a donor engine and a leaving the original under the bench.

[Chuck R.]

Re: And they make that cute rattle sound too *NM*