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Ok, a 67 L68 I'm going to look at has the following numbers: VIN 7536, block casting date A27 (Monday, Jan,2,67) and an engine assembly date of T0106 (Friday, Jan,6,67) and a body date of F09 (Monday, Jan,9,67). That means that the motor had to make it from Tonowanda to St.Louis over the weekend. Is this possible? Has anyone ever seen such a small gap between engine assembly and insertion onto a car?
Thanks, Chris
1969 Riverside Gold Coupe, L71, 14,000 miles. Top Flight, 2 Star Bowtie.
I hate to get involved in a buying issue, but I'd suggest that you look at the list of Serial numbers and dates in Noland Adam's book and find your own answer to your question.
Bill, I did look through Nolands book, and I found that casting and engine build dates can happen as quickly as four days.
The date I'm more concerned about is the motor assembly date and the body build date. Three days, and I didn't see any that fast in his book. That doesn't mean it never happened or was impossible. Or maybe it was impossible. That's why I put the question on the board, to see if anyone had seen a legititmate similar situation or to say it was impossible.
1969 Riverside Gold Coupe, L71, 14,000 miles. Top Flight, 2 Star Bowtie.
I previously had a 66 with an L79 327/350 which had an engine stamped assembly date of 2 days before the date on the trim tag of the body. It was legit, and there are some examples in Nolan's book that show even a 1 day margin. But, the catch here may be that mine was a small block. A four day spread, even for a big block does not seem completely out of the question. But take a close hard look at ALL the numbers, codes, dates, and even examine the engine stamp pad for the correct broach marks. There's a lot to compare that you should get to add up correctly. TBarr #24014
Chris, my 67 base engine, VIN #54XX, has the block casting date K306 (Wed. Nov. 30, 66) and the engine assembly date of V1201 (Thurs. Dec. 1, 66) and a body built code of E06 (Tues. Dec. 6, 66). Hopefully this will help put your mind at ease.
I've read about broach marks and all that's ever said is, "Be sure they're there and they are correct!" So, how the heck can you identify broach marks and can you still see them on a block that has been apart and the deck surface has rusted? Will this result in a huge point deduction?
Probably one of the quickest sources of some correct broach mark information would be from a previous discussion or two about them in the Archives. The best way to learn about broach marks is to observe them first hand. Outside of what I've observed myself, the best I can tell you is that the "correct" broach marks run front-to-back on the engine-head decks and stamp pad. As far as point deductions you would need to consult with an official (which I am not), or reference one of the Techincal Judging manuals. To my unofficial understanding, NCRS judges the engine stamp pads with a fewer total of assigned points which would result in less of a penalty, if that was the case. Other organizations are not as "generous". TBarr #24014
The numbers look reasonable to me, but actually it doesnt mean the production date of the car was on Monday. It could have been Tuesday if a St. Louis body and much later if an AO Smith. How does the serial number look in reference to the production figures for that month? I dont have them here at home.
date. All the numers track fine chronologically. However, the Birthday book shows #7558 as the last car assembled on Friday, Jan. 6, '67. You may also want to consider that Mon. Jan. 2nd was the New Years Holiday.
Thanks Tom! I should have searched first, for I found a huge string in May 2000 on this subject and with a subject line almost identical to my post! Thanks again!
Re: Don't confuse the body date with the assembly.
Here are some dates on my 66 big block. Engine casting date L 9 5 (Dec 9 1965), Eng Assy date 12/13/65, Body build date 12/14/65 (St Louis body), Car final build date by birthday book 12-15-65. I dont feel that is realistic compared to body build date and may have been revised in a later revision. The final assy date is typically 2-3 days after the body build date which would be 12/16-12/17/65.
if you are looking to buy. Take Simple Green, rags, fine sandpaper, plastic scouring pad, paint stick, talc, dentist mirror and a flashlight. Have the owner jack-up the left rear and securly block the car. Great if the body is off the frame. If not, the stamp under the driver's sill will probably be impossible to see. Starting at the top of the frame by the rear body mount, work your way forward until you see the number stamped in the frame. Location could run forward to the kick-up. If it is difficult to read, use the tools you brought to make it legible. Characters should be about 5/16ths high reading 7S107536. Good Luck! Also, check for the proper pop rivets on the tags.
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