Is this a good sign???

[`Michael Southard]

Well, I'm finally at the point where I'll be lifting the body of my SWC. Although, when I removed the back two body mount bolts the body kinda sprung up in the rear, leaving a larger gap than the shim stack. I had .060" shims on the passenger side and the gap ended up at .280". The driver side had about .100" shims and the gap is at .575". I figure that I'll fill this entire gap upon reinstallation so as not to pull a strain down on the rear of the body when torquing. Does this sound about right? The front clip only came up about .015", so I'll fill that gap as well.

I did receive the lifting slings and was a bit concerned about how the "V" shaped clips fit the body. The slings seem to want to turn hard into the body and depress the body (at the rocker area) in toward the birdcage where there is about a 1/2" gap. I figure this will crack or break the body at that point. So I intend to cut some oak pieces that will take up that gap, and then place some cloth between the body and the lifting clip to try to keep the top of the clip away from the body. Has any one had any experience or difficulty with these types of lifting straps or am I being too paranoid??? (I got the straps from ZIP products).

I can physically lift(well move it around pretty good)the body at each end, so I believe everything is free. I will build my dolly stand next week end and hopefully do the deed.

Mike S.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Is this a good sign???

Michael,

The gap at the rear mounts sounds a little problematic. I'd check the frame real good when you finally separate. Measure height of all body mount locations over a flat floor. The back section may be drooping. Do you have any serious rust in the kick up area?

If not,you might be able to take some of the shims out of the middle body mounts to improve the overall body fit. You will need to consider affect on door edge gaps with any changes.

Make sure the V-clips of the sling are hooking the birdcage. NOT the body. Hook past the second to the last rocker panel mount bracket fore and aft for as "wide" as a bite possible.

Try putting a 1x4 along the bottom of the body just above the V-clips. Use a single board that spans from wheel opening to wheel opening. You can also wrap the board with a wool blanket to protect your paint.

Good Luck!

tc

[`Michael Southard]

Re: Is this a good sign???

TC,
I don't have any rust to speak of. There is a small dent in the side of the frame at the door, and the bottom rail of the birdcage is pushed in at that point, as though it was hit in the past. I'll be looking at "SQUARE" real close.

The 1X4 sounds like a good idea though. The lifting clips seem to act like crimpers, When you hook them under the birdcage they pull up and squeeze the rocker portion of the body into the birdcage. That's why I was going to fill that space between the body and the birdcage. The 1X4's should spread the pressure over a greater distance and keep the nylon knot away from the body.
Thanks!
Mike S.

[Mike M.]

Re: Is this a good sign???

tc: been following your posts and "pickins" for a year or two and your above post confirms my suspicion that you are indeed a true gearhead.we need more like you. thanks for your contributions.mike

[Chuck R.]

Re: Don't overlook isolating the clips

Be on-gaurd against the possibility of clip movement Mike,

Chuck

[Michael H.]

Re: Is this a good sign???

Michael,

Just read your post and I have a question. When you wound up with the unusually large gap at the rear body mount locations, was the car/frame supported on jack stands about one foot ahead of the rear wheel centerline and the front supported a few feet behind the front wheel centerline? If so, this will cause the frame to bend or arch slightly, enough to open a gap at the rear mount locations. There's a lot of weight that would now be hanging out rearward of it's normal location, which is generally located near rear wheel center. This problem is much worse in a convertible because of the lack of a rigid top and you can at times see a normal 3/16" door gap open up to 3/8" or more when the car is supported this way but because the conv body is so much more flexible, it tends to follow the frame bend when unbolted instead of remaining rigid as a coupe body would. If the body looked like it fit reasonably well with no problems when your car was complete and on it's wheels, I would definitely consider using the original shim pack count unless you find signs of body or frame damage from a previous accident. As others have mentioned, checking the frame mount pad height dimensions is not difficult. If you do find that the rear frame mounts are lower than they should be, that's a good indication that the car may have taken a hit in the rear. It doesn't take a powerful hit to bend the rear of the frame down.

[`Michael Southard]

Re: Is this a good sign???

Michael H.
That is an excellent observation, I never considered that. Probably because I was amazed at how large and appearently rigid the frame looked on this little car. In fact I do have the jack stands inside of the wheels nearly exactly where you said.

Before I actually lift the body I will take the car off the jack stands and set it on the tires, then I'll see if some of that gap goes away. I never have had any issues with the way it drives or the way any thing fits, so I was startled when the body sprung like that. I would have expected some serious body stress cracks after all these years, but nothing!
Thanks, Mike S.

[Michael H.]

Frame Flex

Michael,
It is amazing how much the frames do flex. As mentioned earlier, this is easy to see if you jack up the back of a convertible and check the gap at the top of the doors. A coupe, with it's upper member, (the roof) would eliminate most of the body bend so the frame bend would be quite obvious.

This problem, amoung others, was the reason the St. Louis plant changed the location of the frame dimension check station, the area where the body mount pads were measured and the shim marks were put on the frame. Originally, in the 60's and maybe early 70's, the frame dimensions were checked when the frame was still inverted, near the beginning of the chassis line and the hash marks for shim count were put on the side rails. Later, engineering learned that there was quite a difference between a nearly bare frame and a completely assembled chassis with engine, transmission and differential etc etc. It was then decided to support the chassis from it's normal suspension points to duplicate sitting on it's wheels and THEN measure for shim count. Engineering knew that there was a substantial amount of compliance with all the components installed and also having the chassis supported in the proper location.

The shims are actually there to adjust the frame, not the body, so they probably would be more accurately described as frame shims. The body had nothing to do with it. Good luck with your restoration

Michael

[Tracy C.]

Re: Is this a good sign???

You are being way to nice to me with this Mr. McCagh. Because of this, I will hold back on the harassment until further notice...

Seriously dude, coming from you this makes me feel pretty good.

tc

[Mike M.]

Re: Is this a good sign???

send case of beast and i'll consider debt repaid. mikie