I know this subject has been covered many times, including very recently. I have read some of those threads, but have a somewhat new wrinkle to the issue. Due to a recent breakdown, I am in the process of having the engine on my '59 Fuelie rebuilt. This will be the second time for what I believe is the original motor. The previous rebuild included having the block decked, thereby diminishing the legibility of the numbers on the pad. The machinist recommends having all 8 cylinders sleeved and the block decked again. It is very likely that the second decking will completely remove the numbers. Although the car is very correct by NCRS standards, there are several deviations I have consciously made for personal reasons (Coker Classic radials, aluminum DeWitts radiator, clear coat paint, and some reproduction trim parts, etc.). I also try to not get caught up in the "numbers game". I value the car for the pride of ownership, thrill of driving, and opportunity to share it and show it off with others that appreciate its styling and engineering. But I don't want to do something that is stupid or will diminish its future value. The machinist is suggesting that he might be able to restamp the exact numbers on the pad in the same place a little deeper, so that when the block is decked the numbers will still be legible. I know many people have a deep aversion to restamping blocks. I can appreciate the distaste for intentional forgeries. But my desire is to preserve what is already there. What are the thoughts on my dilemna? Will this restamping on top of existing numbers even work? Are there other alternatives to preserve the pad numbers? Thanks. - Kevin
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Re: engine stamping
Save your original block as is in the back of your garage. Get a replacement block to use as a driver. Your choice if you just want to get any 283 block (would be a lot cheaper) or a correct casting number and date block (more expensive). If you bother to get the correct casting and date, don't have your machinist restamp it! (The original fonts are very different!) If you do choose to get it restamped, have it done by somebody who does lots of them and have the exact same numbers stamped in it. They can use your original block to choose the correct fonts for you. (Were you aware that there are multiple styles for the "O" alone?)
On the other hand, if you left the original, but incorrect for your car, assembly code on the replacement block, as long as the dates are good, you wolud only lose points for the suffix code - and avoid a quagmire of controversy! -
Re: engine stamping
Is there some alternative to sleeving the block? A 283 will usually bore to 4".Comment
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Re: engine stamping
I'm glad Mike brought that up. I was just going to say have your machinist deck to before the pad. He can, although it is more work.
But the bore an old 283 to a 301 was very common. And a lot of fun.
Don't restamp as you have been told the fonts usually do not match. Odds of your shop having the right stamps are about like winning the lottery when it is $50 million.
and anyone reasonably observant will see the deep numbers do not jive with the cross cut patten from decking and the lessening of the broach marks.Comment
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Another thing to think about,
If you're going to re-stamp it, you might as well re-stamp a replacement block that doesn't need 8 (EGADS!) sleeves and save that cost.Comment
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Re: engine stamping (301 ci)
Gents,
I have alot of owner experience with the 283 bored to 4.00 inches (301ci). I ran this engine in my '57 Chevy for many years.
The 4.00 bore with a 3.00 stroke will develop RPM's in a hurry. Worst problem is engine temperature. When you get caught in traffic, the temperature gauge will max out just like your tach. did a little while ago.
Mike's right. The 301 was fun, but if I wanted another one I'd put a 283 crank and rods in a 327 block and do it the way Chevy did when they put the 302 in the first Z28 Camero.
Best regards to all,
GeneComment
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Re: Another thing to think about,
Thanks to everyone that responded.
A broken connecting rod damaged the number one cylinder during my mechanical breakdown. The number two and four cylinders were sleeved during the previous engine rebuild. The sleeves that were used are too thin to take another boring. The machinist also found a bit of corrosion near another cylinder. Therefore, he thought it was best to just do all eight. Then we could go back to the original bore.
My preference is for originality when reasonably possible. My next priority would be correctness. I am not sure why I would purchase a correct replacement 283 block and not have it restamped. I will probably instruct the machinist to try and deck the block so as not to remove the current pad numbers. If he is unsuccessful, I will just have to live with it. I can at least make a case that the engine is original - even if it can't be verified. Additionally, I (or the next owner) can always have it correctly restamped with the original numbers at a later date. Since I have no intention of striving for Top Flight status, I am not concerned with lost points regarding broach marks, etc. While that may not meet everyone's standard, it seems to make sense to me. I am still open to other thoughts and reactions. Regards, - KevinComment
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Re: Another thing to think about,
Small blocks are cheap. You only have your original numbers once - you got lucky and dodged the bullet last time (your numbers are still partly there). Please don't be DUMB and risk losing your numbers! A correct casting block for your car (to use as a substitute) would only cost a few hundred dollars. Your car will typically be worth 25% to 30% less with a non-matching motor. That's a lot more than a replacement block will cost.
Didn't you know that the ten commandments specifically say "Thou shalt not deck thine original block" - just kidding!
Please don't do it!
MarkComment
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