I am replacing the engine/front lamps and rear end wiring harness. I have two options as far as I know of for replacment R&M and Lectric Electric has anyone used either and did you have any problems.
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Re: 67 wiring harness
Ron :
I just installed both my 67 trans/ign harness and engine compartment harness assemblies. I used Dave Fielders T.I. harness and Lectric Limited for the engine harness.
The engine harness comes complete set up for a stock points type igniton ONLY so I removed the larger pink wire that comes crimped into the small pink starter solenoid wire that would normally run to the stock coil. Keeping in mind I have a Trans/Ign. so the smaller pink wire from the soleniod I crimped into the conn. runs to the distributor on my car.
Other than that everything is there. Just remove your old harness and mark or tag it working from the right side where the blower motor for the heater is and stater wiring. Remove your wire wraps on the fire wall and any connection you disconnect mark working to the fuse block plug ends mark them also and this is a good time to use some elecrical aerosol to clean up the fragile block connectors(mine were corroded). Just keep on pulling and marking as you work fwd. If your hood is off it makes the front wiring easier to get at also so you could start there first if you wanted to.
I did break off a limit switch connection on the left from headlight door switch. After complete removal of the new engine harness that you have marked or tagged compare it to the new one to study and compare with the new assembly so the installation will go smaoother. I found several wires on my old harness jury rigged and replaced and covered with tape. In fact my amp meter never moved until this change due to some melted orange wires by the voltage regulator which were covered or hidden by electrical tape.
Again I started from the right side and worked fwd.If you have your hood off I'd start at the front. As you go along keep checking the old harness and keep it near so you can compare it with your new installation.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting and of course your going to have to get under the car to get to the started. I ground my ground wire to the battery ground on the starter. You'll see the black wire I'm talking about. Also I hope you have a 67 diagram to fall back on.
Good luck,grr#33570 -
Re: 67 wiring harness-2nd reply
Ron, I misread your post. The front headlights or parking are simple. Mine took all day for both replacements but I now have new wiring harnesses for engine compartment and T.I system. Still can't believe the sh** job that was there and hidden by tape.
The rear harness as you know runs down the drivers side of the body to the rear of the car so you will have to remove some carpet and insulation. If your carpet is faded or old nows the time to replace with new insulation. Just a suggestion.
Sorry about the long winded poorly typed first post but I just finished putting my BB hood on myself (not a simple job for me)and my finger tips are minus a layer or two of skin from the electrical fittings.
But do yourself a favor and get a diagram if you don't have one.
Good luck,grr#33570Comment
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No Im sorry
I just filled you inbox with a 67 in all its glory. It is realy strange what prev. owners do to these cars. I see them daily and well SOME PEOPLE SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED TO HAVE A CORVETTE!!!!!!!but thats just me and who am I to say. Wiring is just the start of it. the other day a fellow showed up with his new pride and joy a 1980 black with red interior with some problems. I looked at the car and well its been writen off due to fire-rebuilt and oh heck lets put in a new interior but lets not put in the correct one lets put in a 75 interior complete dash and all. want to talk about wiring from hell, at least they didnt try and hide it what a mess. sorry this should be on the discussion page, just finishing what I started.Comment
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A related question...
Do the new wiring harnesses for '67 come with the fusible links? I am considering this job - the wiring on my '67 is old and getting a bit stiff and brittle. The idea of this job just scares the s**t out of me.Comment
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Re: A related question...
Bill:
What you call a fusable link and what is reality as to the term may differ. Case in point, Dave Fielder and I talked last week about the same question. The only thing I can imagine they (GM) calls fusable links in the wiring harness are the wires that are reduced say from #10 to #18 for example. They are no more than a large wire that has been attached via a metal crimp to a smaller wire which could vary in color and encapsulated in a rubber boot (round 1/2"x1/4" or so)I'd say for insulation protection only. I've never actually seen these fusable links like you'd expect to see in your fuse block inside the car on the harness anywhere.
Maybe an AC car might have them but you would expect to have access to them to replace them like unscrewing a cartridge that would contain a fuse and replace it. Not a permanent encapsulated rubber boot with what I've described.
The encapsulated rubber connections which I think you refer to as fusable links are all up by the voltage regulator and horn assemblies. Ive stripped an examined my old ones and what I've just told you is what you find under the rubber covers, a metal crimp attaching to another wire. As I said maybe this is what GM calls a fusable link but it doesn't look like the fuses we have under the dash. It's just a metal crimp fitting maybe to open up at an excessive voltage or amp overload, I can't tell you but none of mine were detached.
It's easy to install these engine harnesses just remove and tag/mark all connections. Study your engines wiring harness before you remove it as God only knows what jury rigs you may encounter from these old cars.
I'd suggest removing the hood and work from there (headlights/limits/horns etc) aft. After removal of old unit study it and compare side by side with your new one. Like I said the hardest part for me was putting this BB hood back on by myself. I used a lot of towels to keep the hood from chipping any paint.
I don't recommend anyone doing this alone, I've done it before and yes I've chipped up a couple hoods over the years.
Maybe someone else can tell us what they consider or know about these fusable links. I've only stated whats under those rubber boots. I'm always willing to learn something new.
Good luck,grr#33570Comment
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Re: Fusible Links
A fusible link is exactly what it says - a smaller gauge wire, intentionally inserted in a battery-fed hot feed wire to the rest of the car, designed to melt before the entire rest of the feed circuit fries the harness it's in, all the way to the ignition switch. It acts exactly like a fuse, but it's located right at the source of the power feed from the battery to protect the entire wiring harness; if it was a conventional fuse at the fuse block, a dead short in a battery feed would fry the harness all the way to the fuse block. C1's are particularly scary here - they have absolutely no feed circuit protection whatsoever; I always install a fusible link wire between the power feed stud on the starter solenoid and the main battery feed wire to the ignition switch. I saw a '57 fry the entire harness (with lots of white smoke pouring up through the defroster outlets) at a show several years ago where the owner had removed and reinstalled the ignition shielding for judging, and when he reinstalled the main shield over the distributor, the inside of the shield was touching the wire terminal at the (+) coil terminal - when he turned on the key, this made a dead short to ground at the coil, and fried everything - not pretty. When you buy a fusible link, always size it two wire gauges smaller (higher number) than the feed wire it's supposed to protect (i.e., 16 gauge fusible link for a 14 gauge feed wire, etc.). I can't remember when GM started using them, but I know C1's didn't have them - mine DOES!Comment
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Re: Fusible Links,Thanks John appreciate the info. *NM*
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Re: Fusible Links,Thanks John appreciate the info.
'67 was indeed the first year for fusible links on the Corvette, and I believe across the GM spectrum.Comment
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