Headlight Warning Bulb

[Dave K.]

[Joe C.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Dave:

Pulling the cluster 1" - 2" will not be enough, IMHO, to get to the bulb. Also, masking the column will not prevent scratching, unless you use multiple layers of duct tape, which will leave a messy residue. I suggest pulling the column, if you intend to go so far as loosening the firewall plate. It only drops down about 2" anyway, unless you force it down further. You will probably also have to disconnect the speedo and tach cables, as well as the oil capillary line, and release the dash harness from its clip. BE CAREFUL about the cluster ground. It is located on the extreme upper edge of the cluster housing, and can easily disconnect while you are in there.
Good luck.

[Bob R.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Before you pull everything apart you might want to try to reach the bulb with the dash in place.
With the seat out and laying on your back with your head against the trans tunnel you may be able to reach completely around the dash and find the bulb. I was able to install the headlight bulb in my 63 without removing the dash or disconnecting the steering column. It is not easy you have to feel around for the bulb socket and it helps to have long arms.

[Dave K.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

bob,

Can you provide a few more details about your procedure? Did you reach up on the same side as the headlight switch? Did you use both hands -- or how did you get the bulb out of the socket and a new one in?

Regards,
Dave Kitch

[Gary J.]

Re: headlight Warning Bulb

If you are going to this much trouble, I would replace all of the bulbs. I would use GM/Delco replacemant bulbs. I had a problem one time with a generic bulb 257 bulb in that the ears were not long enough for the socket.

Gary
#3503

[Joe C.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Dave:

I realize that this is what you want to hear. Do you have the wiring diagram for your car? If so then verify. I believe that you are looking for the socket with grey //black stripe, and black//light blue stripe wires. There is a chance that you can reach the socket from below. Skinny, long arms and fingers are helpful. It is just one of those things, because I don't know your capability, it's hard to judge. Yes, it is possible. Your seats are out, so that makes it more comfortable for you. Naturally, the more you remove, the easier it becomes. I have done it with no disassembly, but used a pillow on the GO pedal because my head hurt so badly. It is only possible to get one arm up there, two is impossible (except for Harry H.).

Be careful not to disturb too many connections while you are reaching around in there.

Joe

[Dick W.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Dave, I also have replaced the bulbs without removing the dash. It is not easy, but quicker than removing the cluster. If my memory serves me correctly, you will have to either remove the speedo or tach cable depending on which side you come up from. I would use my favored hand. It just takes time and a little bit of skin from the back of your hand.

[Brian M.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

First off it's a Lamp not a Bulb. A good friend had been beating this into my head for some time now. I think I've finally got it. Disconnect the battery before you do anything. I think you can do this without lossening the cluster if you don' have fat hands. Good luck.

[James W.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb (Dash Rash Alert!!!)

Dave,

I too have replaced the headlight warning bulb in my '64 without removing anything but the drivers seat. I found it easiest to reach up with your left hand when laying in the drivers footwell. Come to find out my problem was not the bulb but the bulb to wiring socket connection. Sometimes it looks like the bulb is installed correctly but in fact it is not making contact with the socket. Be sure to have a good light source also, it will really help to see what you are doing. It's also not a bad idea to have a "helper" to retreive tools and anything else you may drop while laying on your back. Good luck, it can be done with some patients so take your time.

Don't worry, the "dash rash" you will get on your hand and fore arms will heal in about 3 to 5 days.

Let us know how it goes.

Best Regards,

James West
NCRS Member #18379
Omaha, NE.
NCRS Nebraska Chapter Co-Chairman

[Bill B.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb (Dash Rash Alert!!!)

Dave....I was recently able to replace the amp gauge in my 65 coupe with only removing the drivers seat. I laid in the drivers well, head against the brake and clutch pedals and was able to reach it quite easily. I think I have replaced the lamp you have in question also but I'm not sure it it was the same lamp. I'd sure give it a try. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Let us know. I'm interested to know if it can be done.

Bill

[Mike M.]

It Can Be Done

I hooked up everything with the cluster in place including puting all lamps in there sockets. Had a helper with the wiring diagram tell me where each wire went when I told him what color I had. Started at the top and worked down. After that I read the post on leaving the cluster on a couple studs back a few inches and hooking everything up. Thats the way I will do it next. Mike

[Al Corelli]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

You're a good lad Brian.

A bulb is a SHAPE. The item is a lamp.

With skinny arms and small hands, this is an arduous, but doable task. Have patience.

[Brian M.]

Re: It Can Be Done

Be careful when hanging your cluster by threaded rod, it puts alot of pressure on the tabs.

[Joe R.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Dave, can you briefly describe how you isolated the problem to the bulb? The headlight warning light in my 67 doesn't work, but I would like to be sure that the bulb is actually the problem before I try replacing the bulb. I took a quick look at the wiring diagram and it was not clear how the light is supposed to be activated.

[John H.]

Re: Headlight Warning Bulb

Joe -

Power is fed to one side the lamp socket directly from the headlight on-off switch, and the wire from the other side of the socket goes forward to the microswitches in series at the headlight motors, which provide a ground unless the headlight buckets are fully open; that ground completes the circuit and lights the lamp. This lamp socket does NOT ground to the cluster like all the illumination lamps do - it's plastic.