Seat Belt Anchors

[Tom Freeman]

Also check out http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vie/pub...motorbroc.html for more info. The Tx Dept of Public Safety runs the emission testing sites. This site states that emission testing "began on July 1, 1996, in Dallas and Tarrant counties and is scheduled to begin on January 1, 1997, in Harris and El Paso counties." It goes on to say "The visual inspection of emissions equipment will remain a part of the annual vehicle safety inspection in all Texas counties."

So I guess I was wrong in previous post where I stated it was a closed hood test. It is just that my hood has never been opened but I am not in one of the testing areas.

tom...

[John C.]

Seat Belt Anchors

This isn't much of a technical question but it's driving me to drink (a pretty short trip). I'm having a tremendously difficult time removing the seat belt anchor bolts in my '64. I suspect the threads on the bolt ends are rusty but the bolt ends on the tunnel are hard to get to and the ones on the outer sides are impossible. If I could get to them I'd hit them with a lot of WD-40 and a wire brush.

Anybody know the SECRET to getting these out? I've gotten one out and rounded out the inside of the other three. I'm ready to resort to welding the allen wrench (socket) to the damn things.

[Craig Fravert]

Re: Seat Belt Anchors

John - I don't know if this will help much but I had the same problem. I took a large pair of locking pliers and was able to get mine to break free. I would work it back and forth until I got them out, except for one. I had one that was very stubborn and I thought that if I tapped (hit) it with a hammer it might break free. It did alright, I managed to break the spot welds off of the anchor nut and now I have one seat belt that will not come off. I have decided that I will address the problem in my retirement years. Good luck - Craig

[Gary B.]

Removing the seat belt anchors on my 66

John,

It sounds like the anchors bolts on your 64 are a little different than the ones on my 66. My inboard anchors have nuts, not bolts. In any case, my outboard anchors are bolts with indented hex heads (5/16"). When I tried removing mine I was successful on one, but I stripped the hex head on the drivers side bolt. I wound up removing the seat (seat removal is another story) to gain better access and then I took a Dremel tool with an abrasive wheel and turned the round-headed indented hex bolt into a bolt head with 4 flats that I could get an open end wrench on. I tried to make a 4-sided bolt head that would take a 5/8" wrench, but I wound up with two flats that a 14 mm wrench fit and two flats that a 15 mm wrench fit. (Who said you couldn't use metric tools on a midyear.) With the seat removed I was able to rotate the bolt about 60 degrees before switching wrenches and turning another 60 degrees. It was a very satisfying feeling when the bolt started to loosen.

Gary

P.S. I don't think WD-40 would have helped much in my case.

[John C.]

Re: Removing the seat belt anchors on my 66

Thanks. The anchors on a '64 have a round head with a rounded top and allen type hole in the middle. You can't grip 'em with vise grips since they're round. Looks like it's time to sacrifice a cheapo allen wrench and weld it on!

[Gary S.]

Re: Seat Belt Anchors

John, when I bought my 66 years ago it had all the seat belt connections but no belts. I bought a set of belts and when I tried to install them I found that the allen round head bolt was rusted in place. No amount of penetrating oil or leverage would budge it. I broke two allen wrenches trying to turn this thing. I finally got it off by using my largest Vice grips on it. I had to sacrific part of the fiberglass at the back of the seat well. As you can see when you try to place pliers or Vice grips on the allen nut there isn't any room to rotate the grips. I had to grind away just enough glass to allow me to turn the grips. I had one very bad accident in college eons ago and I will never drive without my seat belts, so the minor surface damage was a necessary evil. A little bit of glass work and a lot of care and I don't think anybody ever knew that I had gouged out a space for my Vice grips. Gary 21316

[Gary B.]

Welding might work, if you don't start a fire!

John,

I considered welding, but I was concerned about melting the carpet or fiberglass or starting a fire. As Gary Schisler found out, it's very difficult to use vise grips because of access. I still think using a Dremel abrasive wheel is better than using vise grips and causing fiberglass damage and safer then welding. With your welding approach do you not worry about flaming sparks and the risk of fire? I'm also not convinced you won't wind up breaking your allen wrench (as Gary notes) if your bolt is as tight as mine was. If I had to do it again, I would use the Dremel before I'd consider welding or grinding away fiberglass to get vise grip access. Just my opinion.

Gary

[John C.]

Thanks! *NM*

[Gary S.]

Re: Seat Belt Anchors

The inboard bolts do not come out...they are part of the bracket that is riveted to the fiberglas. Only a nut on the inboards.

The outboard screws are a bitch most of the time. I have been there many times. Patience is a must. After you have tried all the other things written (except welding), try using a small sharp chisel and bite into the head of the screw on each side. Tap it with a hammer, side to side. It just may come loose. Once started, Vise Grip pliers will get it out if the hole is stripped.

Gary Seymour #7140