Got a 327/350 and stopped in traffic at idle it will get to 220 degrees. But while cruising its fine at 180. I have done the clutch fan, radiator in 1991, radiator cap 13psi. What else could it be?
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Jim there has been many postings in the past 6 months about your problem. A good review of previous posts by Mr. Duke, Mr. Lucia, and others on overheating should help you correct the problem. In some heating problems in the conditions you have encountered it is the lack of proper or even no vacuum advance. Your 65 shuld have full time vacuum going to the vacuum advance unit at all times and not aconnected to a ported vacuum source. At idle if you remove the vacuum advance hose from the distributor vacuum advance and the idle speed does not decrease, you have either a inoperative vacuum advance unit or no vacuum going to the unit at idle. If there is vacuum at the hose at idle when removed, the vacuum advance unit needs replacing. Full time vacuum and the proper vacuum advance unit for your 327/350 will improve mileage also. -
Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
And the NAPA number is VC 1810........CraigComment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Ok thanks I will start there.Comment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
At idle I removed the vacuum advance hose from the distributor vacuum advance and the idle speed did decrease, So i guess i have an operative vacuum advance. Timing is 8 degrees with the advance disconnected and plugged.
It will still get to 220 if idling, but while cruising its about 190, still seems too hot.Comment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
With the vacuum advance disconnected from the vacuum advance and the vacuum line plugged with the lowest idle speed to not activate the centrifical advance, try setting initial timing at 10 degrees BTDC. Since you replaced the clutch fan in 91 it should not have already malfunctioned, but I would check it out. You could also try the NAPA 1810 that was suggested. This unit I believe will give your 65 L79 more vacuum advance than what your original distributor came from the factory with and would be a inexpensive test. My 68 L79 does not run above 180-190 in traffic and it has a copper radiator that I installed in 1974 to replace the original aluminum one that was leaking and was told it could not be repaired.Comment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Check the timing at less than 900 with the vacuum can connected. It should be 8=16=24 and rock steady. Also check manifold vacuum. It should be about 14-15".
Just because the engine speed changes when you disconnect the vacuum advance does not mean it is performing to spec or that it is the correct spec. What are the stamped number on the vacuum can mounting bracket?
The OE "236" vacuum can is 0@4", 16@8". The NAPA/Echlin VC1810 is an exact replacement.
DukeComment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
I am trying to set the timing and have a few simple problems. The book calls for 8 degrees btdc with no vacuum advance. On my hormonic balance I see a 0- then - - - - and -A is each mark 2 degrees? A is advance but what is the mark next to the A 10 degrees? Its not in any of my 3 manuals.Comment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
The distance between "0" and "A" is ten crankshaft degrees, so each hash mark is two degrees, and IIRC the hash marks at "0" and "A" are a little longer to indicate the total span of 10 degrees.
After you set the initial timing verify that the timing mark does not advance until at least a couple of hundred revs above where you set it. Setting it at 700 of below should probably be okay.
After setting the initial, reconnect the vacuum advance and with the engine at below 900 idle speed, the total idle timing should be initial plus 16. A dial back timing light is a good tool for performing this check.
If you get the wrong answer, there may be something wrong with your vacuum advance or it may not be the correct part. The OE Delco part is marked "236 16" and has specs of 0@4" 16@8". Being as how your idle vacuum should be about 14-15", it is sufficient to keep the vacuum can locked at full advance at idle, which is what you want.
The common replacement for the Delco 236 can is the NAPA/Echlin VC1810, which has the same specs.
DukeComment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Thanks excellent info. The picture below shows my timing marks. Question; is the first 2 degree mark below the 0 or directly abeam it? Also where are the numbers on the distributor, I think its OE but want to check.
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
So to understand this. It should be 8 degrees before tdc without vacuumm advance, with the advance on it should be 24 degrees (8 with the timing light dialed to 16) this will verify the vacuum advance is working correctly. right?
Thanks for the wisdom!Comment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Assuming you set the initial at 8, the total idle timing with the vacuum can connected should be 24 at less than 900 RPM. With a dial back light if you dial the balancer mark back to "0" the timing light dial back scale should read 24.
The mark at the center of the "0" is zero. Note that the hash marks at "0" and "A" are a little longer than the others indicating zero and ten. The vacuum can numbers are on the mounting bracket, and you should be able to read them without removing the dist. cap.
DukeComment
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Re: 65 327/350 overheating?
Great we are one the same sheet of music. It runs alot better, THANKS!Comment
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