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with either the gauge, the alternator, voltage regulator or the battery. Just after you start with no accessories on, the ammeter should go to the right. Shut the engine off, leave the ignition on, and turn on the headlights; the ammeter should go to the left. If you're not having problems with dead batteries, its probably the ammeter.
Take it from a non-electrical (although civil) engineer.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
"Dead" ammeters are frequently a result of corroded/intermittent terminals in the inboard multiple connector on the engine side of the fuse block. Pull the connector off the ammeter (engine off) and check each terminal for power - you should see 12 volts at both terminals. The black wire goes to the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid (becomes a 20-ga. orange wire at the stud), and the black/white wire goes to a screw terminal on the horn relay power bus (becomes a 20-ga. orange wire at the connection). Check both of those connections to make sure they're clean and shiny (with the battery disconnected). If you see 12 volts at both ammeter connector terminals, the ammeter probably needs work.
There is one additional test that can be added to john's trouble shooting. With the ammeter disconnected test it for an open with a VOM on the OHM scale. Do not use a test light because you may overload the ammeter. I just checked a good 64 ameter and read zero ohms.
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