C3 out of moth balls

[Cliff Davies]

My Nephew has asked me bring out a 70 Corvette that has been sitting under a car cover garaged for 17 years. The car looks perfect but nothing has moved for all these years. I would think that everything would need to be overhauled?
Over the years I have fired up many cars that had been sitting for sometime but with the value of this car I would be afraid to seize something. Can anyone offer some advice or point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Cliff Davies

[Duke W.]

Re: C3 out of moth balls

What long term storage preparation tasks were accomplished!

Duke

[Mike Cobine]

Use lots of patience

and hand power on most things.

If it is the original block, and if the area the car is stored in is humid, then forget this and pull the engine to check that the cylinders are not rusted.

If the engine doesn't matter, then try this.

Start by seeing if you can turn the engine over BY HAND. Remove the spark plugs and use nothing more than a regular 14"- 18" breaker bar and socket on the crank and see if it will turn over. If it moves at all, STOP.

Squirt some light oil in each cylinder and let sit for a few hours. Then try turning it by hand again.

I know some people years ago who would do this by taking some diesel fuel and pour a cup or so down the carb, with the plugs screwed in lightly so it didn't run out the cylinders. The diesel was oily enough to provide some lubrication and act like a penetrating oil.

After you can turn it easily by hand several times with no plugs in it, drain the oil since who knows what is in it after squirting oil and pouring diesel in. Put in new oil and filter.

Drain the gas tank and put in fresh gasoline.

Crank the engine over with the coil wire off several times. Check that oil pressure is building. If not, squirt some oil in the cylinders, and crank it again a few times. You may only see 5 or 10 psi this way.

If you have oil pressure, connect the wire and fire it up. Look for leaks and listen for any noises. It will smoke like crazy but that should begin to clear up rapidly.

[Russ T.]

Re: Use lots of patience

Don't be surprised if the fuel system is completely varnished up. The gas tank may have to be steamed out or replaced, the fuel pump replaced and the carburetor rebuilt. The inside of that gas tank is probably really, really nasty.

[Dick W.]

Re: Use lots of patience

Over the years I have started several vehicles that have set like you described. I have had very good luck using Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. I squirt 1-2 ounces in each cylinder using a small pump oiler. I let the engine sit for a few days before attempting to turn it over. I use the breaker bar as described. So far, I have not had any problems with stuck piston rings.

Good luck
Dick

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Use lots of patience

Assuming you get it running, I would guess there is a near 100% probability that the entire brake system will need to be repaired/replaced. I wouldn't even attempt to move it until this is checked out.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Visuals and actions

Look for tell tail drip signs on the floor for starters.

Then inspect the following looking for.....

Brakes:
Brake fluid leakage around the caliper pistons.
Brake fluid drips from the master cylinder on the floor board or on the pedal assembly.
Caliper flex lines for cracking, swelling, kinks or oil soaking.
Brake system should at the minimum be bled to purge old brake fluid.

Fuel system:
Lines at the tank for cracking
Lines at fuel pump to engine for cracking or oil soaking
Lines at carb (if any) for cracking or hardening
Inspect fuel tank for heavy rust or debris inside the tank. (This will give you an indicator as to what you may be up against for the rest of the fuel system).
If it's full of crud, then it will have to be pulled and properly cleaned.
The fuel pump should be replaced as the internal spring and diaphram will be weak.
In-line and carb filters replaced
Carb re-build very possible
"Sea Foam" addative from NAPA to run through the system on that all important fresh load of fuel to help remove hidden deposits and remaining shellac.

Cooling system:
Radiator, heater core and expansion tank hoses for cracking, weakness or swelling.
Seepage from water pump shaft or weep hole
Check both sides or radiator for seepage or nests.
Check floor board and heater plennum for coolant seepage

Vacuum system:
Check vacuum lines both inside and out for cracking, hardening or breaks.

Electrical system:
A close inspection of ALL wiring, looking for any sign of chewed or grounded components (critical before putting any DC power to the car's electrical system).

Exhaust system:
Thermostatic flapper off exhaust manifold for free movement

Ignition:
Plug wires supple and free of cracks or oil soaking
Check plugs for condition

Belts:
Check for cracking or glazing

Lubricating systems:
IF the engine moves even a fraction with the breaker bar, stop and load the cylinders with M.M.O. put the plugs back in and let set for a day. Then after that, start by rolling the engine over with the breaker bar for a few revolutions to hopefully confirm that nothing is hanging up. Then by the starter (guarding against over heating the starter with too much constant run time) roll the engine over to confirm that the system is pressurized.

Then pop the valve covers to look for potential stuck valves. If all looks good, I would still give them a liberal shot of engine oil while the valve train is moving for added lubricating insurance. Of course ensure that the coil wire removed.

After, I'd allow the oils time to drain back to the base and then change the oil and filter.

Might be over kill from other's points of view Cliff, but I'd rather put more effort into making sure that as much as possible is functionally correct and safe out of the gates rather than cut corners and possibly mortally wound what sounds like a very nice car.

Make doubly sure that you do all you can to protect finishes and retain any original components removed as they may be able to either be rebuilt or possibly add credence to the pedigry of the car at a later date.

Hope all goes well Cliff,

Chuck

[Steve L.]

Re: C3 out of moth balls

After 15 years, my engine was totally seized. Took a sludge hammer to free up each piston.

Also, the parking brake shoes swelled and completely stopped the rear wheels from turning. Pushing the car just made the rear wheels slide.

Good luck
Steve L
73 coupe since new

[Russ T.]

Re: C3 out of moth balls

I recently revived a 1983 BMW that had been sitting for 6 years. Once I got it running, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go more than 30 mph and thought it was bad gas, varnished fuel system etc. Actually, the brake pistons in the calipers were completely frozen with the brake pads rubbing against the front discs, so it was like driving with the brake pedal suppressed at all times. I finally figured it out when the front wheels began building up heat and smoking. You might want to check for this before trying to drive it. Good luck!

[Stephen W.]

Re: C3 out of moth balls

If there is any evidence of little critters being around the car do not put a battery in it till you check the wiring. My 68 had a condo for mice in the console and they totally ate the dash harness.

[Chuck R.]

Re: They can be lil boogers can't they

It's unbelievable the damage they can inflict and in a very short amount of time too.

I just can't wait to start pulling the soft components into the garage to put back on the beast

Chuckster