OK! After too many years, I got my '63 on the road this summer, and as the summer winds down, I'm faced with the task of putting it away for the winter. Before I had the car complete, I kept it in a "car jacket" and was very happy. I like it because of the humidity and rodent issues. Two winters with no problems in those areas. Now I have gas in the tank and I'm wondering what's the right thing to do. Gas tank empty or full? If full, use Stabil? Run carburetor dry? Seal off the top of the carb (float vents)? Pull a condom over the filler neck to keep fumes in the tank, moisture out? Perhaps vent the tank via a hose to outside the car bag? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!!
Winter storage- gasoline
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Re: Winter storage- gasoline
You will find this issue in the archives, but for the last 12 years, I pull into the gas station, add my Stabil, and then fill the tank. Drive my car to its designated hibernation point and park it. I flip the battery disconnect and that is all I do. Of course, I change the oil and filter prior to storage. Others will argue that for a four month storage, Stabil is not necessary. Cheap insurance.
gary- Top
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Re: Winter storage- gasoline
You don't have to do much!
FILL THE FUEL TANK!!!
This minimizes the vapor volume where water can condense. Gasoline has a shelf life of AT LEAST six months at room temperature, and the colder it is, the longer the shelf life. Four to six months of winter storage is no problem at all, and you don't need a "fuel stabilizer", but as far as I know they will do no harm.
Since the fuel cap is "vented" you will lose some light end components from the gasoline over the winter, but, again, cold temperatures will minimize the amount that vaporizes and vents.
I recommend withdrawing the fuel in the carb bowls with a syringe and thin tube through the bowl vents and recommend this anytime the car is not anticipated to be driven for more than a week beyond. Repeated evaporation of the fuel bowl contents will build up deposits over time.
Also change the oil and filter before storage, the antifreeze and brake fluid if they will reach their two year expiration prior to the end of storage, and I'm sure you know what options are available for battery maintenance during storage and the need for rodent protection. Also inflate the tires to the maximum placarded cold air pressure on the sidewalls or at least 35 psi.
When it's time to drive next spring, check the tires (good tires and bead seal should lose no more than 1-2 psi/month) and charge the battery, check all fluids and do a general visual inspection (in particular look for any fluid leaks), then fill the fuel bowls with the syringe to the point where the fuel just begins to dribble out the venturi nozzles. Then do a normal cold start.
Duke- Top
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