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I got kind of lazy and haven't put the car up on my lift yet due to a leaking lift hydraulic cylinder to see for myself, but I want to remove the engine block plugs on my 66 SB to flush the cooling system and in order to get to the plugs the boomerang bracketys must come back off. This could be difficult since now the engine is completely assembled and in the car. Are there any tricks to removing these brackets?
I recently did this on my '64. The boomerang brackets can be easily removed with the engine in the car. As I recall, the brackets are held on by the spark plug heat shield bolts that attach to the block. The passengers side is the most difficult with the starter, starter brace and heat shield in place. I removed the heat shield and starter brace which made things easier. The drivers side is easy. To do what yo descibe, you may not have to completely remove them. Maybe just remove one bolt on each, loosen the other and move the bracket aside to get access to the block plugs. I also have a 4-post lift and it make the job much easier.
Best Regards,
James West
Omaha, NE.
NCRS Nebraska Chapter Co-Chairman & Judging Chairman
You must fully remove both sides aft motor mount bolts. The upper-and-aft bolts are on a slotted mount, and only has to be loosened. The right side is much trickier, but the starter can remain. Starter shield and heat pipes must be removed.
I did not have to remove either of my heat pipes, and you I was incorrect about the bolted connection. Each bracket is attached with the aft engine mount bolt which is slotted as Joe stated.
Could you be a little more clear? I assume heat pipes to mean exhaust pipes. Secondly, do the motor mount bolts need to be completely removed? Lastly, Can the side spark plug outer ignition shields remain on or do they need to be removed?
I do not believe Joe was talking about removal of the exhaust system head pipes. I did all of my work with both the heat tubing or pipes and exhaust head pipes in place.
In Joe's reply to you, he stated that he had to remove the heat pipes. The "heat" pipes he is referring to are actually mild steel tubing for the choke stove and carb. These pipes on a 63/64 327/300 engine are 1/4" diameter steel tubing that is plumbed from the lower collector portion of the exhaust manifold on the passengers side and is routed up between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head. This heat pipe connects to rubber tubing that is plumbed into the carb. The choke stove heat tube or pipe is found on the top side of the exhaust manifold and connects to the choke stove but should not pose any problems for the work you want to do.
As for the aft engine mount bolts, I'm not sure if those need to be removed or just loosened. Joe mentioned that the brackets have a slotted bolting connection at on of the ends, I can't remember which end of the boomerang bracket has the slot. I do know that the engine mount bolts can be removed with a 3/8" drive swivel & socket and an extension or two.
The aft motor mount-to-block bolt must be fully removed, as the V Shield mount is not slotted on that side. The opposite end IS slotted, so loosening should be enough. The heat pipes I referred to are, as Jim said, for the choke heat. It is mounted to the same bolt as the V shield, and so will be loose, but removal may not be necessary. On further thought, I am almost certain that you'll have to remove the starter to get the pass. side shield out. You will not have to drop the engine pipes.
My mistake. James West mentioned 1964, and so I somehow thought that yours was also. Anyway, the choke stove was moved to the intake for 1966. The heat pipe is of little consequence, anyway. I think that your biggest problem will be removing the starter. Well, not really a "problem", just more stuff to do. Make sure to check for any starter shims (most of the time, there are none), and be sure to re-caulk the starter-to- bellhousing mating surface with a pliable material like "dum-dum". Oh, and DO NOT caulk the small drip slot at the bottom.
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