I've read the archives on this and found varied opinions. I'm concerned that since the tool pulled out when installing the crank gear there won't be enough threads left for the retaining bolt to function-it still does right now. I'm considering heating the damper center area to something less than 200 degrees and pounding it on with a 3# dead blow hammer. Will having a helper hold the clutch in reduce/eliminate damage to the thrust bearing and rear main seal or is this really a problem? If I leave the pan off and install the damper first how could the crankshaft be braced to avoid this type of damage? The 30,000 mile engine is in the car. Given my situation what would you folks with experience do? All input is appreciated.
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Yeah the book says to use a puller to install.
I've probably put a 100 of them on with a two pound ball peen and never suffered any ill effects. I don't pound them on with a big swing, just jar it on. That being said does not make it right. It means it worked for me. Heating the balancer and having someone hold the clutch in should help avoid problems to the thrust surface. My concern here would be if your threads are worn/stripped, how are you going to torque to center bolt to hold the balancer once you get it seated on the crank? Do you have the right length bolt?
This might be a good opportunity to install a heli-coil while you have it down. -
Re: Harmonic damper install on weak threads-1979 C
back in my younger days i put on plenty of damper using a piece of 2X4 and a heavy hammer with no bad results. if you threads are stripped i would use red loc tite on the bolt when you install it. you can also try tapping the threads deeper with a 7/16"-20 bottom tap and get the correct length bolt.Comment
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PS use some moly kote on the crank snout
for easier installation and make sure to put a little grease on the outside of the damper hub to prevent a dry start on the hub sealComment
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Re: PS use some moly kote on the crank snout
Clem,
I always used grease or 90W gear oil to install dampers until one day, in the late 60's, one of the GM engineers told me that I was doing it wrong. He said that while the surface would feel slicker with 90W, the oil itself was adding to the "press" dimensions of the fit and actually making it more difficult to install. He said use nothing but automatic transmission fluid and your dampners will go on easier. I didn't believe him, of coarse, but he later proved it to me by installing and removing the same dampner several times using first 90W, then ATF. He was correct. (I should have guess) The reason he gave was something about the unit pressure per something bla bla... I dunno about things like that. Duke is pretty involved in lubricants, maybe he can explain more accurately.
MichaelComment
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Of course this begs the question.......
wouldn't the ATF allow the balancer to come back off just as easily if it was one that didn't have the retaining bolt?Comment
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Re: Of course this begs the question.......
Good point Mike. I never considered that part but I suppose either lubricant would eventually disappear when subject to engine heat. I've never had a dampner fly off but I've never raced anything without the retaining bolt.Comment
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Re: Of course this begs the question.......
It wouldn't be the first time I disagreed with a Chevy engineer, but I would never use an oil on the crank to slide the balancer on.
I have used spit, which gives a bit of slickness to help and goes away as soon as the engine is hot.
As to the bolt, I'd definitely tap it deeper with a bottoming tap and get a longer bolt. If not, then a helicoil kit, as bad threads mean loose threads and you do not want to see the unpretty picture of a balancer coming off under a Corvette hood.
Just remember there is an $800 radiator there and a $600 hood that can go in seconds, not to mention a big chunk of steel that could hit another car or person.Comment
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moly kote on the crank
the reason i used moly kote because i had problems with the damper hub gauling to the shaft snout and making it very very hard to remove when installed witout itComment
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Weld it on
I forgot to tell Marv that if he welds it on, instead of fooling with the bolt, he needs to be careful with his ground cable. He should put a bolt in the balance where the pulley bolts, connect his ground to it, and weld away.
For the shock and horror of all, I have seen engines like this. But if you clamp your ground to the block or the frame, often they weld the bearings to the crank and then nothing matters after that.
I personally would NOT recommend welding the balancer to the crank.Comment
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Longer bolt
I have noticed that the tapped hole is substantialy deeper than the length of the bolt. I actually have a bin of longer grade 12 crank bolts for BB that I bought years ago when I noticed this and was doing more of that kind of work. Chase the threads and use a longer bolt. Whack [not too hard] the balancer on with a hammer and 2x4 and some light lube and your done.Comment
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Re: Longer bolt
Frank, you bring up a good point. I happened to think after your note that many setups for putting a balancer on use the threading into the crank as the pulling force.
I always use a very long bolt that threads deeply into the crank until it is all the way in. Then I tighten a nut on the bolt to push the balancer on. This way, the force on the crank is on many threads the entire time, unlike tightening a bolt in that only grabs a few threads to start. A fe wlight taps with a hammer if it is stubborn helps move it along without having severe force on the threads or on the thrust bearing.
This is much less likely to pull threads out of the snout.Comment
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Re: Longer bolt
Mike, That would be would be the smart guy way to do it. Using all the threads. Bottom a threaded rod into the hole and suck the balancer on with a nut. Then replace the threaded rod with the bolt. I would still use a longer one. I would probably do the threaded rod thing if I had an especially tight one but I've never had to.Comment
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the larger auto parts
rent out damper pullers and installers. NEVER use a bolt to pull the damper onto the crank.Comment
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