'69 L-88 questions - NCRS Discussion Boards

'69 L-88 questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Verne Frantz

    '69 L-88 questions

    I may be looking at a '69 coupe soon which I've been told was originally an L-88 car. It was definitely a 4-spd, but now has a later small block and an automatic installed. I think the hood has been changed, car repainted and interior color changed. I have no numbers from the car yet. I also do not have any printed references, such as a restoration guideline or judging manual to go by.
    I was hoping some of you might be willing to give me the "short course" of some things to look for on the car that would be good tell-tale signs it might have been an L-88.
    I appreciate any help. Thanks.
    Verne
  • Jack H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1990
    • 9906

    #2
    Re: '69 L-88 questions

    (1) Buy the JG manual and read it for such a rare purchase.

    (2) Even though you might be able to pedigree the car by 'inference' (instruments, suspension, engine compartment configuration, Etc., remember you're going to spend a CONSIDERABLE amount of $$$ restoring an L88 power train properly.

    (3) Keep in mind, while NCRS and NCCB judge cars according to appearance, both organizations have disclaimers on their award certificates that read (loosely paraphrased) "Looked good enough to fool us today."

    (4) On eventual resale of the car, most savvy buyers won't place a lot of weight on the award certificates the car has.... They'll want to see PROOF POSITIVE the car was originally shipped from the factory as a real McCoy L88 and that means having a reasonable preponderance of evidence of authenticity.

    Last, we had one member in our chapter who uncovered a '68 L88; the tank sticker was there eventhough the front clip, engine, power train were gone. He spent five years gathering the 'bits' to do a correct restoration. Finally, he realized his 'proof' of configuration (the tank/tank sticker) wouldn't be good enough to support resale (how do you know that's that car's original tank sticker vs. a left over tank a serious racer discarded that wound up on that frame/body?). In the end, he decided NOT to complete the restoration because he couldn't absolutely/positively PROVE the car was originally a factory built L88....

    Comment

    • Dick W.
      Former NCRS Director Region IV
      • June 30, 1985
      • 10483

      #3
      Re: '69 L-88 questions

      Such obvious things as 6,500 red line tach, presence of TI amp, radiator, radiator core support, etc. What I am courious of the installation of the automatic. Tank sticker with matching pencil code on sticker and rear bulkhead and there are some fairly decent, to the untrained eye, repro tank stickers. If you are knowledgeable of these cars, you could spend a good part of a day going over the car
      Dick Whittington

      Comment

      • Richard S.
        Very Frequent User
        • November 1, 1994
        • 809

        #4
        Re: '69 L-88 questions

        Dick,
        What do you mean by "matching pencil code on sticker and rear bulkhead" ??

        Comment

        • Dick W.
          Former NCRS Director Region IV
          • June 30, 1985
          • 10483

          #5
          Re: '69 L-88 questions

          On the tank sticker you will see a three digit number penciled in. You should find this same numer on the body, toe pan, rear bulkhead. Do not get concerned if it does or does not match the last three digits of the VIN. It is srrn either way, probably more often not matching.
          Dick Whittington

          Comment

          • Richard S.
            Very Frequent User
            • November 1, 1994
            • 809

            #6
            Re: '69 L-88 questions

            Dickie,
            I am very familiar with 67 tank stickers but not 68 and up. My understanding for 67's is that the circled number was the Vehicle Assembly Line sequence number. I thought the numbers on the body were Body Line identification numbers. Any more you can offer would be appreciated.

            Comment

            • Dick W.
              Former NCRS Director Region IV
              • June 30, 1985
              • 10483

              #7
              Re: '69 L-88 questions

              The ones that I had apart, the numbers matched. I am under the impression that they all did??
              Dick Whittington

              Comment

              • Verne Frantz

                #8
                Re: '69 L-88 questions

                Thanks for the insites gentlemen. I'm afraid I only know a "little" about the '63s and '64s, but I'm not much good with a '69. In this car's history, it hasn't been in the hands of anyone who would or might have tried to create the appearance of an L-88. It would seem the car's history is just the opposite. Perhaps originally an L-88, with a scavanged drive line, then sent down the road with a small block as a driver just to get rid of it.
                I should probably take the advice and buy the JG, but I was just hoping for some easy clues to look for that were truely unique to L-88 cars, since whatever was there is probably still there. The car was never "restored" - just barely "fixed up" as a decent looking driver.
                I know the 6500 redline tach could also apply to other Hi-perf engines. I also suppose the HD suspension could have been optional with other engines. As I said, I was hoping to get some quick clues as to certain components that were L-88 only. I'm not sure what to look for as to differences in the rad support. (I have to assume the radiator itself could have been changed at some point in it's service history.
                I will definitely check for the tank sticker. It's a little discouraging to hear the tank sticker by itself might be not be a firm enough piece of documentation, since I figured it would have the body number on it as well.
                A long time ago, a friend made a comment that the hood latches were unique to that hood (?). They weren't all heater "delete" cars, were they? Any other insites would be most appreciated.
                Thanks again.
                Verne

                Comment

                • Warren F.
                  Expired
                  • December 1, 1987
                  • 1516

                  #9
                  Re: '69 L-88 questions

                  Verne:

                  I hope further investigation turns out, to be in your favour, as to be lucky enough to find a lost 'real L88' car!

                  Sometime in 1971 the Corvette Order Copy; aka "tank sheet" was a carbon copy and these show the partial vin sequence in the lower right portion of the sheet, which would verify whether it is for that particular vehicle or not. I have not seen this feature on any of the earlier sharks, unfortunately.

                  Comment

                  • Dick W.
                    Former NCRS Director Region IV
                    • June 30, 1985
                    • 10483

                    #10
                    Re: '69 L-88 questions

                    Vern, all hood latces were the same, with the exception of early 1969 having the same configeration as 1968. All 1968 and 1969's were delivered with heaters. Federal safety standards mandated defrosters, hence a heater. Hope this has been of sone help
                    Dick Whittington

                    Comment

                    • Verne Frantz

                      #11
                      Yes, thank you... *NM*

                      Comment

                      • Mark #28455

                        #12
                        Re: '69 L-88 questions

                        To check the "oddball" L88 stuff, look at the brakes. Only L88's in 1969 had the J56 brakes. The front calipers ONLY will have two giant cotter pins to hold the pads in place (not the usual one pin in the middle) and insulated pistons. In addition, the J56 cars originally had a cast iron support bracket in addition to the stamped steel support bracket holding the front calipers in place. Although I have seen them on e-bay, the supports alone go for $400 on up per pair and most people "faking" an L88 don't bother.

                        If the original trans is present, it must be an M22. All M22's after late October 1968 had an assembly code ending in "C" (example P9B22C) while the early transmissions had no suffix.

                        Certain options were manditory with the L88 such as J56 brakes (which also had a power booster), F41 suspension, M22 trans, K66 ignition, Posi rear with big block caps - make sure they were all there - holes for TI amp etc.

                        The radiator support was basically the small block aluminum radiator suport with different holes drilled for the top mounting bracket. More importantly, look for the L88 foam seal that goes against the underside of the hood - it's different.

                        L88's were not available with power steering, windows, AC, etc so make sure they were never there.

                        Finally, look for the "small parts" like the original distributor, alternator, CARBURATOR (date code correct carbs are big$$$, 4054 LIST is super rare), starter (L88 only, but a repro is now available), bellhousing (#403) etc.

                        If any more questions, you can e-mail me if you want.
                        Good luck,
                        Mark

                        Comment

                        • Verne Frantz

                          #13
                          Re: '69 L-88 questions

                          Mark,
                          Those were just the kind of tidbits I was looking for, rather than ordering a book and waiting for it to be delivered.
                          As I mentioned in my first post, the engine and trans have been replaced, along with the hood (I think), so there's a lot I won't be able to check because it isn't there anymore.
                          The brakes are a good clue, but I've been told the calipers were replaced with SS ones. I'd have to guess that might negate the check for the dual pins, however maybe the cast bracket might still be there. (unless it isn't usable with the replaced calipers?) I'll ask if the original calipers were saved.
                          I've also been told the L-88 was not available with a radio. Well, they tell me the car has a radio in it now. If someone just added a radio way back when, I doubt they would have installed all the right capacitors and ground straps as well. Would you mind telling me where to look for the (lack of, I hope) straps and caps? Even if they were removed, I know how to look for evidence of used threads and external star washer marks, etc. I just don't know where to look...
                          Thanks again. I really appreciate the help.
                          Verne

                          Comment

                          • Robert C.
                            Expired
                            • December 1, 1993
                            • 1153

                            #14
                            Re: '69 L-88 questions

                            Verne, Capacitors were seen on most L-88s. Check to see if it has a rear stabilizer bar. They wouldn't have removed it.
                            Bob

                            Comment

                            • Mark #28455

                              #15
                              Re: '69 L-88 questions

                              Cast brake caliper bracket supports will work with any Corvette caliper, so they may still be there. Also check the stamped code on the bottom flange of the differential unit. If date codes match the car, it MUST also be an original big block unit (FYI FA=3.73, FB=4.10, FC=4.56) You will find bolt on caps instead of u-bolts holding the inboard half shaft u-joints to the stub axles.

                              I bought a basket case L88 about 8 years ago, it too had a radio added. It seems the dealers were able to get all the original parts for the install - remember Corvettes use an oddball spacing on the radio knobs so it left few options in the early 70's.

                              If you're lucky enough to have the original starter, carb, and distributor, don't be surprised by the date codes, mine were all beyond 6 mos. but the alternator and all the standard high perf big block codes (rear, etc) should be pretty close to the assembly date.

                              My car was ordered August 12, 1968 and was built at the end of October 1968. Check your VIN#, I would be surprised if it's less than 6000.

                              Tell me what you find when you look at the car.
                              Mark

                              Comment

                              Working...

                              Debug Information

                              Searching...Please wait.
                              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                              An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                              There are no results that meet this criteria.
                              Search Result for "|||"