Is there an engine build book for dummys?

[Chuck R.]

I'm after basic information that can provide general information if I mate ??CC heads with XYZ valves with XYZ block at a certain bore with XYZ cam, etc, etc, etc.

I just want to get a general feel for potential performance that's all.

When I start reading the hundreds of ads about cam lifts and durations, chrome vs moly rings and 64cc vs 72cc heads, my eyes glaze over and what little grey matter I have shuts down.

I refuse taking night courses at M.I.T. just so I can get all warm and fuzzy talking power curves to the eleventh power.

I'll leave the micrometers and dynos to the professionals.

If there's not, then I guess thats that!

Be gentle on me, I'm only asking an honest question

Thanks,

Chuck

[Mike M.]

Re: Is there an engine build book for dummys?

Engine Build Book for Dummys was written by the Dipstick of Lyle.seriously, i'm not familiar with a small recipie book that'll answer your questions. just post em here and Duke and Clem and the boys will steer ya down the right path. good luck, mike

[Chuck R.]

Re: Thanks Mike

I'm just trying not to tie up the board with countless "Duh" questions that I'm sure would wear down even our Die Hard technical veterens like Clem and Duke.

I think Duke will probably go nuts if he sees one more "Hey Duke will this tire fit?" question.

Thanks again,

Chuck

[Duke W.]

Re: Is there an engine build book for dummys?

Google to the HP Books site and buy whatever you need.

As far as configurations and cams are concerned you can't beat the vintage engines. Depending on what type of operational characteristics you want, I recommend three vintage cams - 300HP, L-79, or LT-1 for SBs and the equivalent OE cams for BBs. I NEVER recommend aftermarket cams unless you are building a dedicated racing engine!

If you want to scratch build and engine using aftermarket components you'll just have to sort through the maize as best you can. In this case I recommend buying a engine simulation program, so you can do so system engineering up front. Otherwise you will probably end up with a kluge, and the first thing you have to establish is the type or operational characteristics and torque bandwidth you want.

Duke

[Brian Monticello]

Re: Thanks Mike

There's a book called "How to rebuild your small block Chevy" by Dave Vizard that is pretty basic. It has some history on the SBC and heads but it doesn't really cover performance. I just used it as the main reference to rebuild my 327. Prior to doing so the most complicated thing I had done was rebuild a carburetor (i.e. throw a kit in one)

I think there is also a book called "How to hotrold your small block chevy" too.

brian

[Chuck R.]

Re: That's the rub Duke

I have a 0010 350 punched out .030 with the stock crank and 896 heads that I want to get respectable horse power out of.

The only add ons that I will throw into the rebuild is an Edelbrock performer intake and shorty headers with stock exhaust.

I'm not after 400Hp but 300+/- would be nice.

I'll start looking into simulation programs. Anyone have any luck along the lines I'm after?

Thanks folks,

Chuck

[Kenny Hancock]

Re: Is there an engine build book for dummys?

Duke:

This is slightly off the subject at hand, but will the L79 or LT-1 cam respond well to 1.6 rockers on 350 - 383 cid engines? Thanks.

[Clem Z.]

just remember

that if you use 1.6 rockers on heads that have the double the "D" pushrod guild hole machined into the head you MUST elongate the slot towards the stud because the push rod seat in the 1.6 rocker is closer to the pivot point. most cam companies sell a jig called "louis tool" that allows you to use a hand drill and a 5/16" drill bit to do this. the rockers will increase the lift and duration slighty and if it helps make more power you need a bigger cam.

[Clem Z.]

Re: That's the rub Duke

i would recommend "engine analyzer v3" from performance trends. go to www.performancetrends.com for a program sample.you do not need the higher priced version "pro" version for what you want to do.

[Roger Legge]

Re: That's the rub Duke

The John Lingenfelter book on modifying small blocks has good, solid info in it. Good info on factory pieces - various heads, oiling system, etc.

Roger

[Duke W.]

Re: That's the rub Duke

I agree with Clem's recommendation for a good simulation program. EA allows you to simulate SAE net including a street exhaust system, which is the way to go.

I have cam specs that properly represent the OE cams. In particular, the LT-1 cam data is DIFFERENT from anything you've seen published, but it works! The published LT-1 timing data will not give accurate results. The .050" lifter rise data for OE and aftermarket hydraulic cams are okay. My LT-1 timing points are based on .050" lift ABOVE THE TOP OF THE CLEARANCE RAMPS, which can be compared to hydraulic cam timing points at .050" lifter rise above the BASE CIRCLE.

If you want a smooth idle and lots of low end torque go with the 300 HP cam. If you want more of a SHP character go with one of the OE SHP cams and the LT-1 cam will make the most top end power.

I don't think shorty headers are worth anything. The OE 2.5" manifolds are as good or better. I also recommend OE or OE equivalent valve train parts. Higher ratio rockers are only worth a percent or two power at the top end and they increase valvetrain loading.

Instead of buying aftermarket hot rod parts, spend the bucks on a good pocket port, port match, and three angle valve job. Heads are what limit power even with a 300 HP cam.

Almost any 180 degree four-barrel manifold is okay. The Z-28/LT-1 is probably the best. Most aftermarket are okay. The 327 SHP aluminum manifolds are a little restrictive, but are the way to go if you want to maintain OE appearance.

Any vacuum secondary carb, including the Q-Jet, from 600 to 750 CFM shoud be okay if properly tuned.

Duke

[Jack J.]

Re: That's the rub Duke

Duke, while we are on the subject, I took off a Holley 650 CFM dual feed from my stock 1964 365HP. Was or is there any advantage over the stock Holley 600CFM that I believe came on the car originally? Thanks in advance.

[Duke W.]

Re: That's the rub Duke

In not a Holley expert, but the OE 585 CFM vacuum secondary carb. is a good street carb. I never recommend mechanical secondary "double pumper" carbs for street engines - race engines only. Not sure if the 650 you refer to is vacuum secondary or mechanical secondary double pumper, but sounds like the latter.

Duke

[John H.]

Re: just remember

One of the slick mags (Hot Rod, Car Craft, Super Chevy) had a comparison dyno article about 6-8 months ago, specifically comparing 1.5 vs. 1.6 rockers on the same SB engine ("Mighty Mouse"?) with about six different cams, and the dyno data showed that the difference was so minute that it wasn't worth the time, effort or money to fiddle with 1.6's, either in pairs or only on intake or exhaust.

[Michael H.]

Re: just remember

Yep, I agree with John, again. Fairy tales about rocker arm ratios have been around for decades. Who would start such rumors? Well, lets see. Who has the most to gain by doing so?? There's the companies that make em and, ah.....maybe the poor guy that got talked into buying them because he's not going to admit there was no gain. Kinda like all the Kennedy conspiracy books that are available. It sells books.

I have some really interesting dyno sheets from 68-69 on the 302 Z28 with crossram that used both 1.5 and 1.6 to compare and, as John pointed out, the difference is so small it wasn't worth the effort. In some cases, there was no change and there were a few tests that showed a slight decrease in power. Many of these dyno sheets are right out of GM engineering.