Two years and 200 miles ago I put a new LUK clutch in my 63 340 car. I have been chasing a vibration in the drive train from a dead stop that increases with speed. All the other suspects have been checked - balanced 3 driveshafts, remove and rebuild diff and replace snubber bushings. Now I am looking at the clutch. I have the correct free play in the pedal, but I am now at the very end of the adjusting rod. This car had a 350 block in it when I bought it and the original engine was crated. I used the same fork and linkage that was used for the 350. Could these linkages be different from original? Also, this clutch is coming out - I failed to balance the clutch/flywheel and I used the plastic guide when installing the clutch to the flywheel. I will make those two changes on the re-install - could there be something else with the installation that may lead to this vibration? Thanks Again
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
is there a pilot bushing in the crank? mike -
Re: Clutch Adjustment
Yes - a pilot bushing was supplied with the new clutch.Comment
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
NOW I see that 63 is a one year only for clutch fork, push rod, fork rod and assorted springs. I will need to disassemble and check for correct 63 parts. Nothing like doing the big jobs again and again and again.Comment
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
Peter,
The clutch fork, push rod, return spring etc shouldn't have any affect on the vibration problem. Your original post stated that you didn't balance the flywheel & pressure plate. This fact is a very likely contributor to your problem. Especially if the flywheel was never originally mated to the existing crank in your engine.
Knowledgable engine builders like to balance ALL the components that rotate about the crankshaft axis together as a single rotating mass. This means the crank pulley / harmonic balancer / crank / rods / pistons / flywheel / pressure plate & clutch should be taken in together to be balanced.
My engine builder didn't do this. Thankfully, I learned from this board before it my engine was completely installed and running. The disassembly / balancing job is on my "to do" list for this winter.
good luck,
tcComment
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
Peter-----
Yes, the 1963 clutch linkage was different than later years. The 63 fork used a "ball joint" type of connection of the fork push rod and the fork. This is similar to that used on many other Chevrolet models of the period. The 1964-81 Corvette clutch fork used a "slot and pin" attachment. The 64+ set-up is a significant improvement over the 63-only design. You should be able to use the 64+ set-up on your 63 as long as you use all of the correct parts. Primarily, this would involve the fork and fork pushrod. If you use the slotted fork (GM #3887177) and the 64-E66 pushrod (GM #3844209 which is 10-9/16" in overall length), then you are effectively converting the car to the 64-E66 linkage system. All of the other parts of the 63 system should be completely compatible with these parts.
I strongly suspect that your problem involves an imbalance in the flywheel/pressure plate assembly. This is quite common, even with a brand new GM clutch. One should NEVER, EVER install a flywheel and/or pressure plate assembly without first having the parts precision balanced by a COMPETENT balance shop. Sometimes you "get away with it" but very often you'll end up having to "go back in" to do it right. The "going back in" is something that I try MIGHTILY to avoid.
The use of the plastic disc alignment tool has absolutely NOTHING to do with your problem. Problems created by the use of that type tool affect ASSEMBLY ONLY. If you're able to install the transmission without difficulty, then the tool has worked just fine for you. Sometimes they do; sometimes they don't.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
did the machine shop drill the crank for a pilot bushing? i recently dropped a 394 olds out of a 64 olds in my 50 olds and wanted to use the original hydro-matic automatic tranny original to the 50 olds. 64 olds cranks aren't drilled for a pilot bushing-- the 50 olds tranny has to have a pilot bushing for snout of torque converter to slip into. had local machine shop drill the 64 crank then pressed a bushing into the 64 crank. had vibrations and leaks out the gazoo. after several tranny removals, discovered that the pilot bushing was too far foreward to center the troque converter snout. simply installing another pilot bushing to the rear of the initially installed bushing cured leaks and vibration problem . this a long shot in your case as most all small block cranks i've seen were drilled for pilot bushing regardless of whether the engine originally in a powerrglide or turboglide car. good luck, mikeComment
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Re: Clutch Adjustment
Mike, did you say you had a 1950 olds? I have a 4-71 GM supercharger that goes on a 324 olds, 2 carter carbs, and 2" gilmer drive belt and pulleys. Also an old B&M hydro stick with original B&M shifter. daleComment
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