I've installed T-Tops with new weatherstrip in a 75 and still have leaks near the rear of the panels. I followed the instructions in the Service Manual and referred to the AIM, and still no luck. The gap between the T-Tops diverges toward the rear of the car, but I am unable to find any way to adjust the gap closer. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Shark T-Tops
Mike, in my opinion, learning to adjust the T-tops is pretty much restricted to on-the-job-training, and not something you can explain. Adjusting the T-tops is essentially a trial and error process...you try something and if it doesn't give you the desired effect, then you try something else.
There are four points where the T-top position can be adjusted: On the inside edge of the T-tops are two pins/slots that adjust the T-top fore/aft and in/out, as well as, height of the inside edge (shims). The large round pin at the windshield corner also adjusts fore/aft and in/out, as well as, height of the outside front corner (shims). At the rear outside corner of the T-top, there is a threaded bolt in the body with a triangular head. The triangular head fits into a "V-shaped" recess in the T-top. This bolt can be screwed in/out to adjust (to) the fore/aft position of the top. When the screws attaching the trim under the bolt are loosened, the caged bolting plate inside the body is free to move around allowing the T-top to be adjusted (within limitations) for height and in/out. Although the bolting plate inside the body is supposed to be caged, I would NOT put it to the test...keep at least one screw loosely installed all the time.
As a starting point, I recommend that you install both T-tops and loosen all adjusting screws so that the attaching hardware can shift around easily as the T-tops are moved. Certain parameters will have to be met; e.g. tops have to match body contour at the rear edge, particularly the outside corner. Position the outside rear corners properly while setting the rear edge gaps to specs. Slightly tighten enough hardware to allow you to check what you have overall after latching the handles. Making a temporary mark (wax pencil or equal) in the exact center of the windshield trim will give you a target to shoot. Compromise and repeat this process as necessary until you get the gaps like you want them, or as close as possible.
I found the center gap to be the toughest to get right, primarily because of travel limits at the triangular pin (Does the triangle head fit in the "V" or inside the "V" recess??? I think inside the recess.). You will see many C3 cars with unattractive wide center gaps. You may also have to add shims at the hardware to get the top height to perfectly match the body contour...I found the factory guys had a low "perfection" threshold in this area. You may also find that the body contour on the bow is imperfect...it may have low spots or waves. In that case, you have to match the top contour to the average mean contour of the bow...unless you happen to have the paint stripped, and body filler nearby (Oh My, not over-restoration!) -
Re: Shark T-Tops...Correction
Mike, I retract that part about the shims under the big round pin at the windshield corner...no shims there, only under the two pins at the inside edge (AIM calls them "locks, roof center").Comment
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